TOPIC: Photo Tutorial - ASP switch & electronics install

This should act as a visual guide of how to install your switch and electronics.

First let's make sure all of our electronics work.


Lets start with putting all of your electronics together with a battery to make sure they work like so.


Next we take them all apart again and grab our ASP pieces to start the install.
I'm going to use my Vengence emitter since it's the more complicated of my two.

Let's fully disassemble the emitter so we can get at the LED retention screw and unscrew it.



You will also notice I remove the black choke section of the emitter as it has a smaller inner diameter than the LED unit.


Next I insert the LED into the emitter.


Then threading the wire through I fully twist on the choke section.


Important notice: I leave the LED retention screw out so it does not touch the LED at this point.

Next up we will prep and install the switch.



First take the nut off of the switch. I needed a little help so I used pliers on the nut and finger loosened the switch holding it by the threading. Making extra care not to use the putty or quick connect on the bottom of the switch for leverage. If you do you may break some of the connections.





Next we will test fit the switch in the desired hole on our switch section. In my case a gladius switch section.





Yay it fits now pull it back out again and we are ready to do the install.

The install

First run the LED connection wires all the way through the ASP switch section.
Important Step: Then string the switch nut on the switch wire coming from the board/battery unit.

(Note: some people sudgest putting an O-ring between the switch nut and ASP switch section to better conform to the inner curve and make a better hold. This would have to go on the switch wire from the board after the nut at this step. I have not tried this myself yet but it sounds like a great idea.)

Now run the switch wire (with the nut on it) into the switch section and out the switch hole you want to install your switch into.


Now for the hard part.
slide the switch into the hole like we did in the test run then maneuver the switch nut up the wire and onto the switch.
(Note I had to pull the LED wire out of my way to do this.)


Then tighten the switch nut to the best of your ability and re-run the LED wire if necessary.


Now we can connect the LED wire to the LED.


Now let the LED unit hang loose out the front of the Emitter section.



Then twist the Emitter section onto the switch section, rotating around the LED wires and making sure not to put any pressure on any of the wires.

Now that the emitter and switch are together we can push the LED into place and tighten its retention screw.


Next I pushed the board/battery all the way through my body section being careful not to stress the wires. If you body is longer I would be very careful using any kind of tools to push it through.

Then twist the body on around the wires while the switch section and board/battery stay still.



All that's left now is pushing the board/battery into the body again and put your pommel on. With a little cramfu and care you should be able to get it all inside without twisting the wires up.

Some helpful additional changes is to add a small ribbon under your battery and another hanging past the speaker so you can safely remove them with a tug instead of disassembling everything again.

"Then tighten the switch nut to the best of your ability and re-run the LED wire if necessary." This is the part that concerns me because some folks recommend gluing. I'm not sure what to follow. Did you glue the switch/nut? Is the nut secure (doesn't look like it is tight because of obvious shape difference with the curvature of the hilt)?

Execute66 wrote:
I got mine tight enough that the switch doesn't move at all. I did have to glue in the dummy switch though.

Artair wrote:
Thank you, that's my theoretical understanding: the switch-nut should hold the switch 100% securely in place if the switch is held down fully and concurrently the switch-nut is screwed upwards in the hilt's curvature ("the hard part" as you say).

Was it easy gluing the dummy switch?

Artair wrote:
I've seen a few people suggest using a small rubber o ring between the nut and the saber wall to help build it in place. The idea being the o ring will conform to the inner shape of the hilt making it easier to tighten the nut.

This is an awesome guide by the way Artair. Thanks for this.

Yup super easy. It just sits on a little ridge and should never see much pressure to pop it off.

I really like the O ring idea and added it in at the correct step.

I'm glad you find it helpful to have and hope it answers many questions.

First off, great thread. This is helpful even for those of us that did not do ASP (yet) and are DIY'ers. 2 questions....what size O ring would we need...12mm? And what type of putty is used. I've only ever used heat shrink and I'd like to try the putty.

Great guide and write up Artair. Thank you.

HotRod wrote:
Is either 12mm or 14mm I'm not sure which. When I get my second switch in I plan on hitting the hardware store and I'll let everyone know then. I did a decent job on the first go and don't plan on disassembling it any time soon.

Personally I'd steer clear of the putty. It's much more messy looking and if you ever had to fix an issue it would mean a lot of cleanup and basically redoing anything it touches. It makes a lot of sense when your handing the electronics to novices who can strain the wires but for that small amount of extra safety you get a whole lot of mess. It also hides soder joints or any other messy or sub par workmanship and makes it difficult to identify problems when they do occur.

So it's great for a consumer product like this but on my own bench I'd stay away from it.

Great thread!!! I have this emitter as well although still waiting on it to arrive. I had no idea about the choke so you're already my hero. Thank you so much for the step by step. My OCD thanks you.

Artair wrote:


Thank you so much for the advice! I appreciate it. That makes me feel better about the putty. I'm always afraid something is going to short inside the hilt. I try to use a lot of heat shrink. I also purchased some the shielding from TSCC.

I also found the o rings came with my switches, so that answers that question and using them is excellent guidance as well. I'm all fired up now for doing my own build!

Really great tutorial. A bit more in depth than the video. Thanks a bunch!

Great tutorial! Thanks!!!

Anyone know what's that black stuff wrapped around the solder joints of the speaker? It's actually covering all solder joints...I would like to get some...

Most likely some type of hot glue.

RichellM wrote:
It's a type of electrician's putty for sealing electronics instead of electrical tape.

Ottomatix & XIII,
Got it, thank you!

Looked almost like an epoxy, but I'll look for the putty.