TOPIC: ASP Sound options - champion vs hero

OK, going out on a limb here... As we know, the ASP versions don't get to the "HERO' stage, as they're only offering the 'CHAMPION' grade soundcard, etc. (Sabercore 2.0 w/ Crimson or Viridian). On the IDGG site, you have an option of getting a Saber+Light (250) or Saber+Light+Sound (375)... plus shipping.
On the website, the HERO comes with a SparkColor 2 soundboard.

It looks like I could order the Saber+Light version, and then order a SparkColor 2 soundboard + speaker separately (from a third party) - it almost comes out to be the same amount as order the ASP with the lower tier soundboard. Yes, I know I would have to do reconnects/wiring to the board, LEDs, etc. (I am pretty handy electronically). Yes, I know - No recharge port/kill key either unless I put one in myself.

What size are the typical ASP speakers? 20mm vs. 28mm?
Are there ones that provide better bass/volume than others.

Anyone done this mod themselves? Thanks for the info!

The 28mm premium and bass speakers TCSS sells fit fine in SF hilts. Depending on the size of the hilt you order, with how much room a battery holder takes up vs a wired battery pack, you may want to stick with the premium one (as its a bit slimmer).

If you get a warrior tier ASP, you'll have to also buy a 12mm momentary switch if you want to install a soundboard (warriors come with latching switches).

You could also save a bit more money if you get the Spark 2 board, which is a bit cheaper.

EDIT: You'll also want to grab some plastic shielding like this to act as a guard between the soundboard and the inner wall of the hilt. TCSS is out, but you should be able to find some at any hardware store. It's diameter is a bit wider than SF hilts, but cutting down along one side will allow you to roll it up a bit.

Jaden- Thanks!
I'm looking at getting an ASP Katana +12", with a Relic Pommel. So these only come with the Battery pack/ no port.

So the 28mm will fit? I guess I was reading 20mm in other posts... The nicer speaker I was looking at was 28mm!

The momentary switch is also available on TCSS?

Thanks again for the insight! The Force is strong with you.

The 28mm ones will work fine. The ID of SF hilts are listed at 1", but the body sections are a bit wider on the inside. Those who were looking into the 20mm ones were planning on putting them inside the pommel instead of the body to save space.

Here's the bass-style speaker the ASP kits use and a TCSS 28mm bass speaker, and they have the same diameter, though the TCSS is a bit deeper. For their regular Champion and Hero installs SF appears to use the same size premium-style speakers.



Interestingly enough, when I was putting the two of them up to each other to compare their size. the two speakers attracted each other.


TCSS (The Custom Saber Shop) carries pretty much everything a saber builder needs, including 12mm AV momentary switches. They only carry lit ones, which have separate legs for the switch mechanism and the LED. If you do want to have the switch lit, you'll need a resistor for that.

I'm I correct in assuming you'll be wanting a red LED? If you weren't aware, the wavelength of light the red Cree LED dies SF uses gives off (which is in the same range as other red Cree and Rebel LEDs used in the lightsaber hobby) combined with the frosted/trans-white blade, gives off a slight orange hue. It's still definitely red when you look at it, but not exactly the red seen in the films (which is actually a bit difficult to pull of IRL). There is an older die model that has a red (called photo red) that gives off a much deeper red and looks really great in lower light, but it isn't as bright and gets washed out a bit in brighter light (I have a photo red Tri-Cree I've wired up, and can attest to this), like one would encounter at a convention.

Not trying to deter you, but just inform you so you aren't surprised. SF red will still look really great and will be much brighter even under daylight.

Oh no - this is GREAT information to have! I look forward to mucking around it the Saber's innards! (have to know it inside and out y'know!)

As to the speakers.. they have a mutual attraction for one another! It must be it's native internal animal 'magnatism'!

I was thinking of also obtaining a 'day blade' off of the Etsy shop - they do look nice (especially the red). When you see the mods that Kylo cosplayers do to their Black Series blades - most of them tint the goo they put on the sleeves to achieve a deeper red and get the unstable look they're looking for... which is what the day blades automatically have in a deeper color. Obviously there is a diminished effect a little with the red LED (as opposed to a white one).

I am thinking of getting a Ripper Blade from Gary Ripper in a traditional Katana style, which would be a little different and shows the light very well!

Thanks for the heads up on the switches & resistor too on TCSS (see below) - just need to figure out which one! (Yes, reading up on the TCSS sticky!!) This one says: "The LED has a forward voltage of 2.0V and runs at 20mA." I believe the ASPs don't come with lighted switches to begin with. I've been watching another thread in the DIY area, where they're discussing that SOME of the ASPs also don't come with a predrilled hole for a recharge port. So that's been interesting to see...

The recharge ports SF uses fits inside the same 12mm hole that the switches do (LINK to eBay page with them for sale). If it's the thread I think you are talking about, they were referring to some prebuilt warrior sabers from the main site only having a hole drilled for the latching switch instead of two and the extra being filled with a dummy switch. All ASP switch pieces have 2 holes drilled in them. The Spark Color 2 requires two switches to operate (a main and an aux), so adding a recharge port would require an extra hole, but the Spark 2 has an operation mode where all features can be used using a single switch.

You are correct that the ASP momentary switches are unlit (makes things easier for a plug n' play kit). I myself prefer them; I imagine having a bright little light on your hip would give you away if you were a Jedi on a stealth mission.

For the AV Switch with LED, I believe TCSS sells a DynaOhm resistor that is supposed to be great for accents (although a bit bigger than a regular resistor). You can get one for a Forward Voltage of 20mA. I am going to try one as soon as I receive it. And Jaden may have more experience with this than I do, but it's worth knowing it's there.