TOPIC: Few questions about ASP

Hello,
First I’m sorry for my bad English. But I hope you will understand what I trying to ask .
I’ve been looking for an ASP Saber. I’ve read in the Forum, and this solves a lot of questions.
But there are still some left. I hope you can help me.
1- The blade plugs are not necessary to run the saber? They are just for better looking and protection of the LED (if no blade is insert). Am I right?
2- There are two options: Do-It-Yourself Electronic and Plug-And-Play Electronic. The Plug-And-Play Electronic is not available whit Recharge Port and Smart Charger?
3- Does the Do-It-Yourself Electronic include the little red connectors (for LED and switch) that I have seen in the Tutorials?
4- If the Saber isn’t used, the LED in the Switch still consume energy. I’ve read that there is a kill key to shot off the whole saber. What is this kill key? How does it work? Is it an electrical switch?
5- Is the Smart Charger really a battery charger? Does it observe the battery and shutdown the current when the battery is fully charged?
6- If I place an order (and pay it), how long does it take to arrive in Florida USA? I have an aunt in Florida and will visit her in November. It is much cheaper for me to take the parts myself then shipping them to Europe.

Hydra wrote:
Here are answers of what I know I am pretty sure others will be answered by people who knows them.

1) Yes you won't need a blade plug if you keep blade on saber all times or not worried about dust etc getting in saber mostly it is for looks and protect led like you said.

2) currently plug and play does not have recharge port or smart charper but according to phil it will be added soon. New plug and play might be entirely different than current ones.

3) I am not sure which red connectors you are talking about but if you are talking about what I think than no they are quick connect parts and what makes plug and play possible are them. You need to solder DIY parts.

4) Kill key is a button like piece which is put into recharge port to cut the power off you can find them under accessories section in shopsaberparts.com or get them from lazerforge.com main site ha a type of kill key itself.

5) Since it is called smart charger I assume it has such an ability to cut power off when battery full but alas I don't have one at the moment so can't say for sure.

6) my asp parts were send in less than 10 days (8 day one 9 day xecond one and both had more than one saber with electronics) they are using priority usps shipping so I assume after shipment it would take 3 or 4 days tops for it to arrive anywhere in USA (I am in eurosia too so it arrived in 20 days but it stuck in customs for a couple of days)

They currently added assembly options you just need to put an emitter, switch, body and pommel section along with assembly option and they will do electronic installation.

Some additional comments:

1) The blade plug is not only to protect the LED, but to protect you as well. The LEDs that are used are so bright they can damage your eyes if you look at them directly when they are on.

3) The connectors you are talking about are called MicroDean connectors and I haven't seen anywhere that they come with the other items in the DIY section.

4) It depends on what electronics you have in it. If you are only doing a stunt (so battery, latching switch, and LED) you won't see any additional current draw. The sound cards still draw power even when they are "off" which is what the kill key stops.

Tousend Thanks to you two.

As far as I can see, the Kill Key is only a piece of aluminium? So id makes a electrical short circuit?
I don't understand it but if it works it is ok for me.

The cap is aluminum but the shaft is actually plastic.

Think of a recharge port like a switch. When it is empty it connects the relevant battery lead to the soundboard. When you connect anything it disconnects the battery from the rest of the saber electronics. When a kill key is used, it fills a gap between the positive and negative leads of the battery with a non-conductive material that basically flips the switch and acts as an open circuit, simultaneously disconnecting the saber from the soundboard to prevent current draw and preventing the leads from touching while doing so.

If a conductive kill key is used it will essentially create a closed loop between the positive and negative leads of the battery, but the short circuit caused SHOULD be caught by the protection board on the battery which will shut it down to prevent overload. If it doesn't do that that's some fun times right there. I've never shorted a Lithium Ion battery before so I don't know how dangerous that will turn out. Use a non-conductive material for the kill key just in case.

Snakeeyz99 wrote:
Ok this makes sense. Thank you.

I'v found tho other questions .

1- The blades are available as V4 Infinity Blades and Colored V4 Inifinity Edge Saber Day Blades. The colored Blades have an more intensive Color than the normal one, or what is the difference?
2- Both blades are available as normal and as Thin Neck. What meens Thin Neck? Does some Emitters need a Thin Neck?

1. Pretty much. The normal blafe is a translucent clear blade, the day is colored.

2. The thin neck sabers are the ones that have a thin piece between the emitter and the body. They have a piece inside them that inserts into the blade to helo hold it in place. If you look at the Shadiwhunter on the main site, you can see what I am talking about.

WookieeGunner wrote:
The redeemer is another notable example of a thin neck emitter. Notice the copper portion which is significantly smaller than the rest of the saber:



The only real difference is that the diffusion film stops a bit earlier in the thin neck blades, as having it extend as long as the standard would cause some film bunching due to the shallow opening at the end.

The other issue you could run into with a thin neck is finding a blade plug, which would have to be very short. Most people just leave them open.