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TOPIC: Plug and play stunt.

Plug and play stunt. 11 months 2 weeks ago #69711

  • Darth Khlōros
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I just ordered what would be a stunt setup plug and play. Later down the road I intend to add sound. Does anyone know if I can get an aftermarket soundboard like a nano biscotti or do I have to stick with the sf board? I know nb3 can do quick connect.
I looked, and behold, an ashen horse; and he who sat on it had the name Death; and Hades was following with him.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 2 weeks ago #69713

  • Snakeeyz99
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You may run into some issues trying to run a 12W LED through a NBv3... the main LED current limitation is 2A, and for the 12W you should be running in the ball park of 4A. Not sure what the current solution is in this case, but someone with more Plecter Labs experience might be able to provide a bit more knowledge.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 2 weeks ago #69714

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Sounds like I need a resistor. I'll have to calculate using ohms law.
I looked, and behold, an ashen horse; and he who sat on it had the name Death; and Hades was following with him.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 2 weeks ago #69715

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I think the best bet to get the most out of your LED would be to split the 4 LEDs in the 12W module between the main channel and Flash on Clash. However, this would probably depend on personal preference and/or what Saberforge provides you as an LED.

If the LED you get is an X4 star, you could wire it so 3 LEDs run on the main channel and one runs on FoC. The main channel LEDs would have to be resistored to run at ~650mA apiece (~2A total) and the FoC to run at 1A.

If you have an X2 star you could have 2 LEDs on main channel and 2 on the FoC channel. The main channel LEDs in this case would be resistored to run at 1A apiece and the FoC LEDs at ~750mA apiece (I believe the max current of the FoC channel is 1.5A). YOu could also wire this way with an X4 star if preferred.

Alternately, with an X4 star you could wire 2 LEDs to main channel and 1 LED to FoC and leave the fourth LED unpowered. This would mean your saber would run similarly to a Tri-Cree LED but without the Tri-Cree optics.

You would not be able to run all 4 LEDs from the main channel unless you resistored each to run at 500mA, but I'm not sure how efficient that would be. You don't want to exceed the ratings of the board or you could risk blowing/burning out a transistor.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 2 weeks ago #69716

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Heat dissipation might be an issue, but I've seen enough evidence to say the amp limit on the NB mosfet is a fair bit higher than 2A, and I think others have successfully hooked 12W+ modules straight to NBv3.

However, some soldering would be required, since TCSS quick-connects won't be compatible with SF plugs. Or at the very least, some wire stripping and crimping to join the LED wires.

That said, Naigon's Spark comes with four 4.5A mosfets and typically plays more nicely with 12W LEDs. If you're willing to solder to the LED star, the four LEDs are typically split into two contacts that can be joined to two of those mosfets. Those four mosfets can also be assigned to any of one or two color channels, and, depending on the star, this can give you options like FoC, multiple blade colors, or even a double-bladed saber with staggered ignition, all controlled off one board.
Last Edit: 11 months 2 weeks ago by Kouri.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 1 week ago #69755

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So... Suggestions here then. What board do you guys would suit my set up best. I think the only reason why I don't want the sf sound is I want multiple sound fonts. Also I ordered the led, the switch and the battery housing for 18650. Do I need anything else for just lighting right now (ie resistors?)
I looked, and behold, an ashen horse; and he who sat on it had the name Death; and Hades was following with him.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 1 week ago #69759

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That should be enough to get the lighting going, since SF preresistors their LEDs. The PNP kit should be fairly easy to assemble, just make sure when you are spinning your ASP parts together that the wires don't get knotted. If your switch is a latching switch you should be fine... if it's a momentary switch it'll act like a pressure grip, where you need to hold the button constantly to keep it on.

In terms of upgrading to sound, I'd agree with Kouri on Naigon's Spark 2. I haven't done any full installations myself (my Crystal Focus v8 waits patiently on my bookshelf for now), but from what I've seen NEC seems to have more user friendly manuals (a bit more robust than Plecter's) and designs their boards to run off a single cell 3.7V battery by default (which is almost a borderline necessity for stock SF hilts). For the upgrade there you may want to change the battery holder to a board-mount chassis. You'd also need a speaker (NEC recommends the 8 ohm), an additional momentary switch (you could keep the latching switch as the primary or swap it for two momentaries), a microSD card (which might come with the board), and an optional charge port (though the ASP hilt you ordered may not have a third predrilled hole for it if you use two switches). Alternately you can replace the latching switch with an unlit dual-tactile switch and leave the second switch hole for a charge port, like SF is doing on their Hero kits.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 1 week ago #69760

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If you want to stick with plug-and-play and willing to save up, there's the Hero kit which comes with Spark's big brother, the Spark Color, though you wind up replacing... pretty much everything.

For DIY multi-font boards, your current cheapest options are still NanoBiscotte and Spark. NB needs a single momentary switch (your stunt/warrior kit should currently be using a latching switch). Spark can be configured to run on either one momentary switch, two momentary switches, or two mixed switches - one latching, one momentary.
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Plug and play stunt. 11 months 1 week ago #69777

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Thanks everyone!!!
I looked, and behold, an ashen horse; and he who sat on it had the name Death; and Hades was following with him.
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