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TOPIC: wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound
wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound 9 months 1 week ago #71769
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my wife bought me the sorcerer warrior tier https://saberforge.com/collections/all-sabers/products/sorcerer i was wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound Kit V2. my question is what does the kill key do for it ? and does it go below my switch? it says it comes pre wired for the recharge port how would that fit into my current saber or would i need to get another part ? Thank you for your help
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wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound 9 months 1 week ago #71773
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The kill key goes into the recharge port to disrupt the electrical connection and shut the saber "off".
The recharge port will need to go either where the dummy switch cover is currently, or if you don't have a second switch hole with a switch cover you will need to drill a 12mm hole into the hilt to mount the recharge port. You either glue it in, or you can use the lock nut to secure it (super secret ez-mode for that here). When upgrading from Warrior to Champion, you will also need to replace the current latching switch with a momentary switch. You can reuse the current LED, but will need to add a micro deans connector to the LED wires to connect it to the PnP kit. That's the only bit you can reuse from your current setup when upgrading to a Champion PnP kit. Or you can just buy a new PnP LED if you're not confident in your soldering skills. |
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Robertglen80
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wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound 9 months 1 week ago #71778
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on the Sorcerer saber do you know when you order it if the body and the Switch Sections is removable i can't seem to get them separated there is a set screw connecting the switch section to the neck body but nothing on the body side to switch section.. i looked inside i can see a lip but can't get it apart.. thanks
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wanting to upgrade to Plug-and-Play Champion Sound 9 months 1 week ago #71780
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I don't own a Sorcerer so I'm actually not sure. The switch/body could be one piece for all I know. Usually they use a threadlock or superglue between all parts but the pommel, but if you were able to break that to get the emitter off then you should be able to do so to separate the switch from the body.
That set screw should just be holding the silver shroud onto the switch section. |