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TOPIC: Shoto saber design, ISO input

Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 13 hours ago #81181

  • wamphyri13
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And since we all forgot, yes (technically) a coupler can go between the emitter and switch. I just don't know if they'll assemble it for you that way. You may have to contact the custom shop. Here is the saber without For Tyeth's color mods.

No matter where you go, there you are.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 12 hours ago #81185

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For Tyeth wrote:
Hi wamphyri13,

No Probs, ask (nicely) and ye shall receive!

Here is the link:
Tom Scott at it again

kind regards,
For Tyeth

The problem with these examples is it doesnt say what the finish is. Does anyone know if that is transparent copper or a custom job with an opaque color?
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 12 hours ago #81186

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Transparent copper over dual tone
Translucent Purple over Silver (no black detail in the saber)
Copper Vein (non transparent color)
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 12 hours ago #81188

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When you say no black detail... that archon has lots of black sections. Are those preserved regardless of finish? The jade fire also has black and silver parts, is that standard with opaque finishes?
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 12 hours ago #81189

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wamphyri13 wrote:
And since we all forgot, yes (technically) a coupler can go between the emitter and switch. I just don't know if they'll assemble it for you that way. You may have to contact the custom shop. Here is the saber without For Tyeth's color mods.


How did you get the coupler to stay up north of the body in the configurator?


Nvm i got it se- wait a minute....
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Last Edit: 1 month 11 hours ago by Major_Tom.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 1 month 8 hours ago #81195

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The Jade Fire is a predominately silver saber with the switch section being dual tone. The Archon is a black body with silver shrouds on it. The shrouds themselves have no black on them. If you apply a translucent or transparent color over dual tone the silver becomes that color and the matte black becomes gloss black. All other colors cover everything regardless of base color(s).
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 1 day ago #81265

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So the store ASP page lists the Gladius body as 4.35 inches, dunno whats going on with the configurator. with the shorter switches being around 2 inches, so I'm not sure I'm gonna run out of length, we will see what sales has to say.


At the moment switch 10 is my favorite for this build, but with the taper of the gladius body it leaves a potentially problematic gap with a 90º edge. Switch 7 shown below solves this problem beautifully, but creates another at the point where it mates with the Avenger emitter. There are a few switches that I could see myself using, and they are posted below, but I was wondering if it was possible to have SF grind down the problematic edges. As I will be ordering it with a powder coat I don't want to have to try to do it myself.











As this will be a dueling saber ergonomics are a concern, as well as the mandatory style points.

If anyone has used the ASP Gladius body and has had to deal with this, lemme know how that turned out.
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Last Edit: 4 weeks 1 day ago by Major_Tom.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 1 day ago #81267

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You may have missed where I posted it earlier...O-rings can cure what ails you on the cheap.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 1 day ago #81268

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I had missed that, thanks. How hard would it be to get a properly sized o-ring over a sealed hilt?
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 23 hours ago #81270

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If its asp it should be easy to slip it over whatever you need covered, but I'm new to this. What is sealed?
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 21 hours ago #81275

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I plan on ordering it with the champion assembly package, in which case i believe they seal the threads ss they build it leaving just the pommel free.

If anyone knows different please let me know
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 21 hours ago #81279

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Well if it is sealed together then I would simply try and get the right size o rings and put the on from the emitter, then just work them over one knob at a time.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 4 weeks 15 hours ago #81303

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O-rings have a little stretch to them, so you'd have to go from the emitter end. Unscrew the Avenger greeblies, stretch the o-ring over the end and roll it down to where it has to go. You'll need a decent set of calipers to determine the size needed for sure, but I've used several on the bases of my Resilient emitters and they fit just fine. Start with trying a #84 O-ring. It has an OD of 1 7/16" and an ID of 1 1/4". You might need an ID slightly smaller, but hey, they're cheap to experiment with.
Ryan
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 5 days ago #81389

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So I think I've settled on just 4 final possibilites; that should work in terms of grip and I will either use o-rings or a strip of leather to fill in any problem areas. Gonna get the emitter and body sections polished and clear coated, and the pommel and switch sections will be transparent copper. Let me know what you guys think,

For Tyeth, if you get a second to mock those up I would be much obliged.










For reference here are what I believe to be the transparent copper and brass finishes respectively




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Last Edit: 3 weeks 5 days ago by Major_Tom.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 5 days ago #81390

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Hi Major_Tom,

Sorry it took me a while to knock these up, I have just got back in from some business I needed to attend to.
I have however done the pics for you (just the pommels and switch sections not the block ring on the Gladius body) and I sampled the colour from the Forsaken picture you posted) Hope these meet approval.









kind regards,
For Tyeth
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 5 days ago #81391

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That's perfect FT, thanks!

I plan on leaving that block ring uncoloured regardless of final finish ^_^
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Last Edit: 3 weeks 5 days ago by Major_Tom.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 5 days ago #81394

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Hi Major_Tom,

No problem, I think it will turn out well. It will still have a bit of a Roman look if you keep that wrap but it still looks advanced at the same time. Even though the leather isn't real I have found the Reptile Wrap to be very grippy and the pattern provides grip which ever way you hold the saber (either normal or reverse grip) And the Reptile has held up well, it hasn't started to peel away from the hilt or wrinkled at all.
Looking forward to seeing this when you get it.

kind regards,
For Tyeth
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 5 days ago #81395

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https://www.facebook.com/SaberforgeCustoms/photos/a.1020498207988552.1073741852.981868565184850/1020498424655197/?type=3&theater

So I hate all the clear metals alone, but love them for accents, here is the copper with black chrome and regular black highlights. :heart:
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 1 day ago #81523

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Hey For Tyeth, sorry to ask you to keep beating the same dead horse, but if I could get one more quick render I think my nascent Shoto idea will be ready to emerge from the chrysalis of this post.

I've attached two images, if you could mock it up as above with the pommels(not the block ring) and switches in trans copper, as well as the inner emitter (that which is usually black, and the rest (body and emitter outer shroud) in black chrome, that would be awesome. The saber in the facebook post above should serve for color sampling. Thanks!






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Last Edit: 3 weeks 1 day ago by Major_Tom.
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Shoto saber design, ISO input 3 weeks 1 day ago #81524

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Hello Major_Tom,

I have a batch of renders for you as close as I can get (and hopefully what you were looking for!)













The Trans Black Chrome is as close as I can get before it turned opaque in my photo editing package.

kind regards,
For Tyeth
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