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TOPIC: ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY

ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64236

  • HotRod
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Well...sort of...it isn't done yet, but I hit a milestone tonight and could not sleep so I thought I'd share my progress. :lol:

So I give you the (almost) completed....NIGHTSTICK











So I received this hilt about a month ago. It has been a very fun and yet challenging install for me filled with ups and downs. I am on my 3rd attempt at a successful assembly and the board made it in! :cheer:

- The Particulars -

ASP . Fury Pommel . Black,
ASP . Body 8 . Black - Flipped / Reversed,
ASP . Switch 5 . Black,
ASP . Emitter 7 . Black,
ASP . Blade Plug 4 . Black

Black AV Activation Switch with Orange LED
Black AV Aux Switch no LED

Naigon Spark Color 2 Soundboard
Naigon Z6 RGB LED


The name is just the first thing that came to mind when I saw it.


- The Install -

Oh, the install. It was a boxing match revolving around my skill in Cram-Fu, and I have gone from a white belt to a green / brown belt, but have more to learn and have a few bruises from the experience. This is a VERY short hilt. Shorter than my Bastion.







First, I reversed the body. It is comes up the other way by default in the ASP builder but it felt better to me the way you see it. This presented the next problem....The recharge port.

Round 1: The recharge port

I had planned to drill a hole for the recharge port where the Covertech knob was to go since I would be using the switch section for 2 switches for the SC2. However, when I received the body, they had drilled the Covertech knob port in the original lower half of the body even after my request, but it made sense. The knurled section is simply too nice to drill into and there is not enough "meat" in the slim part of the body to drill for the recharge port. So I decided to put it in the pommel. Round 1 goes to Hot Rod for the pommel install of the recharge port.

Round 2: Wire and Install Components

So I then decide to put everything else together and note I wire the switches directly to the board to hopefully save space. I test the board and it works. Then I start to put everything together. Unfortunately, I run out of room quick and end up snapping the connections on both my switches. I have to pull it all back apart again. Round 2 goes to Nightstick

Round 3: Repair Switches and Reverse Board to Make More Efficient Use of Space.

Here is where my creativity does me in. I must have stayed up too late, because I get the bright idea of saving space by reversing the orientation of the board so I can cram the recharge port wires, speaker, and battery wires near the pommel and the SD card will be between the body and the switch. I still don't know what I was thinking, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Well, as any experienced builder probably already guessed, you start snapping wires when you screw something in while it attached. I test the board, it works. I put it in the hilt and screw the hilt together (bad move, Hot Rod), and break one of the pads off of the board for the accent LED (shorting the board). Round 3 goes to Nightstick with Hot Rod getting up at the count of 8.

Round 4: Total rebuild.

So, I put it away for a bit and then come back with a fresh mind. I happen to have one more SC2 board. I completely rewire a new board trying to account for the limited space, but also decide to use Deans connectors everywhere this time. I also re-oriented the board SD card towards the pommel as should be. I tested the board and it worked. I assembled everything and it fits...well...almost. My LED will not go all the way down and my recharge port wires are too long and are touching the speaker. But it works!


Here is the recharge port installed






Round 4 goes to Hot Rod by a close decision.


- Fit and finish -

All I have left to do is trim the wires coming from my Z6 LED and trim out the wires coming from my pommel. Both are on connectors so I won't have to pull the board or switches out. I also need to glue the switches down. I'm Oh so close. So we'll have to see how the fight ends. It's going to be close!



And just so I don't leave you guys hanging, here are a few shots with the saber activated showing the orange AV switch and RED color from the Z6:









I love that emitter! This little saber feels GREAT in hand. That knurled grip is awesome. It's just short. It feels bigger in diameter than my Bastion which also lends itself to a better grip. I've got all kinds of Sithy fonts in such as "Dark Meat", "All too Easy", Juansiths MPP HD, and one called Revolt. I need to play with the Z6 to see how to make Orange. I'm only running it at 71% right now as I read somewhere if you run it too high it will trip the pcb in the battery.

Right now, I'm just trying to win the fight. :-) It's Nightstick 2, Hot Rod 2....who will win?

More to come in the next round....


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
Last Edit: 9 months 3 weeks ago by HotRod.
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64237

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Round 5.....fight!

This round started to look like an even match as Nightstick came out with leads being too long at the both the LED and recharge port. The recharge ports wires were also touching the speaker distorting the sound. But, Hot Rod comes back and rewires the LED for shorter leads to the mini connectors. The emitter fits and works. Next is the recharge port. Hot Rod wires up a new recharge port with leads long enough to fit behind the speaker but short enough not to touch the speaker. The recharge port is installed so it does not rotate in the pommel as it is being turned so the wires stay in place. The pommel fits. It looks good for Hot Rod.

But wait, the config on Hot Rod's server gets corrupted and now the saber won't boot. Hot Rod failed to back up (WHAT WAS HE THINKING BEING A NETWORK ADMIN?!). Nightstick is coming back swinging. Hot Rod rebuilds the config and all the fonts from a downloaded file from Saber Igniter. It's looking good. It boots, it doesn't rattle, it WORKS! Hot Rod wins by a narrow margin in the final round!!!

(Seriously, all that actually happened).

Guys, thank you for your VERY supportive comments so far! Check this out with the awesome blade plug.









And here are some color shots:












So let's talk about the build, feel, function, and the Z6 LED.




- The Build -

One good thing about cramming everything is nothing rattles. I do have some room, but it's tight. The emitter is long, but most of it is for show so there is not much room for the LED at the bottom. Getting the recharge port in the pommel was not as bad as I thought. It just required 2 nuts, 2 black nylon washers, and the port. I bent the leads 90 degrees before soldering and ran all of the wires to one side trying to make sure they didn't cross and used LOTS of heat shrink. All of the wiring for the battery his behind the speaker and tucked under the circuit board as to not interfere with the SD card (the board stick out from the battery...a tip I learned while building my Redeemer). One AV switch has an orange LED (I used a Dyna Ohm resistor) and one is solid black. Could I have gone without the resistor? Not sure. i've just always been under the impression I needed one. The Dyna Ohm is much larger than a normal resistor, so when you are short on space, that can be a factor.


- The Feel -

This thing feels GREAT! It's heavier than my Bastion, but shorter and quicker than any of my other sabers. It has a very nice heft to it. It also has this perfect spot between the switch section and knurled grip on the body that allows you to grip and spin, but if your fingers slide, they will meet a smooth stop on either side, which really goes to show the awesomeness of this body section. This is a much more fun saber to play with than I had anticipated for its very short size. It is very short, but somehow doesn't feel short. I can't explain it. It just doesn't feel short to me.




- Function -

This really boils down to the NEC Spark Color 2. I love this board. It was relatively easy to wire, it has a lot of settings, and is fun to tinker with. I like that you can change the volume by font, so loud fonts can be quieter and quieter fonts can be made louder. The 2w Bass Speaker is a MONSTER but was needed for this build since the recharge port is covering up some (not all) of the vents in the pommel.

For me, it was really bizarre having that moment where I was doing color editing on the saber from the saber and thinking to myself, it works just like the one I got from Saberforge, but I wired it. Not trying to brag, but it was a cool feeling.


- The Z6 -

So, I don't know a lot about LED's. This LED is bright. I'm only running at 70% and it DOES put off some heat over time. I read somewhere if I got into the 80's or above, it could (not would, but could) trip the pcb on the battery. So, I opted to keep it at 70. It's not blazing hot, but it is warm. Here are some comparison shots. You'll note, it still looks good and it is bright!







Also, I found that my colors from color mixing are visible at the LED. In other words, if I want Orange, I go full red and a touch of green. I believe the SC2 works in increments of 5 along the scale of 0 to 255 per color, so that's 255 on Red and 5 on green. It's nice, but not as good as my Monarch as far as color saturation goes. For this and other color mixes that use green, such as arctic blue or cyan, you can see the green coming through at the bottom of the emitter. Not sure if this is because I can see the blade right at the emitter, or if it's the LED.

Honestly, I did put quick connects on my LED and I have a Necree from Naigon I may try. There is NOTHING in the world wrong with this LED and it is awesome. I just miss the option to have Amber as well to get blood orange or deeper oranges (I like orange). :-)

- Final Thoughts -

This was a FUN build! I learned so much. It is a great hilt! It's MEAN, Black as night, BRIGHT, loaded with Sith fonts, LOUD, and unapologetic I put a nice thunder noise in when it boots. It reminds me of a Shelby Cobra....tiny body, no room, tons of power! I'm thrilled to have this one in the family.

Once again, this build is not just mine. You guys have all helped me through this and I am so grateful to you. Thank you for your guidance, your thoughts, your advice, your humor, your expertise, and your patience. I wouldn't have been able to do this without you.

More pics coming below!


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
Last Edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by HotRod.
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64255

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Wow HotRod I'm loving the black hilt! The name and write up style seem very fitting. I have yet to attempt my Cram-Fu skills but ordered parts yesterday and will see what fight mine puts up. Good luck in round 5!
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64262

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Woot! I'm about to do mine, another Goth chassis should be here today/tomorrow. I hate the multiple rounds, been there myself :P
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64286

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Love the name, love that emitter, love the color! That is gonna be one sweet saber! Good job so far and good luck the rest of the way!
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64289

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Lovely all black ASP! I have that emitter too, quite like how all those circle windows just glow when the LED is on.
"I am the Senate"
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64312

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Damn that's sweet! Love that look!
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 3 weeks ago #64346

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Hey Hot Rod,
Nice build! I might follow in your footsteps. I'm thinking about getting the Z6 for my own ASP install along with the SC2. Did you have to use resistors for your AV switches? I thought we had to since they don't come with an internal resistor from TCSS. My colors would be green and blue switches.
- Light em up

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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64470

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Rest of review is above ^^^^ :-)


jonnys95s10 - Thank you so much! Good luck. I've got a lot to learn so I'm sure you'll end with a KO in your fight! :-)

BoostinIX wrote:
Woot! I'm about to do mine, another Goth chassis should be here today/tomorrow. I hate the multiple rounds, been there myself :P


Thank you. Phew, I'm glad I am not the only one. I was thinking the whole time, "I know the guys at forum would never have made this mistake, ha." I'm still a noob. I look forward to seeing your build!


DK44, Execute66, Greysider - Thank you so much! I spent some time on the builder trying to pick something TOTALLY different than I would normally choose. I am a light-side guy, so this was an exercise in trying something different for me.

Andi-Jae EL wrote:
Hey Hot Rod,
Nice build! I might follow in your footsteps. I'm thinking about getting the Z6 for my own ASP install along with the SC2. Did you have to use resistors for your AV switches? I thought we had to since they don't come with an internal resistor from TCSS. My colors would be green and blue switches.


I think I would try the NECree. It's supposed to be more efficient, but the Z6 is a bright LED. I did use a resistor for the LED in the AV switch (I cheated and used a Dyna Ohm...which is a one fits most scenario). I have another thread going where Kouri, Jaden, and the community are trying to teach me how to calculate resistor needs. :-) I can't wait to see what you have come up with!



Also, here are some final shots...

REEEEED





Pink






Cool Emitter





Here is what I'm talking about where the individual colors can be seen. Hopefully the colors can be seen in these pics.


You can see Blue and Green in this Cyan





You can see the green in this orange



- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
Last Edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by HotRod.
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64476

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Thank you HotRod, have been on the edge of my seat anticipating Round5 and the Bout's riveting conclusion. Excellent writeup style and play by play commentary. Emerging as the Victor with a nice addition to your Collection and one that has been installed by yourself, Great Work!

This is a much more fun saber to play with than I had anticipated for its very short size. It is very short, but somehow doesn't feel short. I can't explain it. It just doesn't feel short to me.
Confucius say: It's not the size of the Hammer you wield but the Nail that is driven. ;)

Congratulations Mate, Awesome Saber.
Ohh.. Where does the the Speaker vent its sound since you installed the recharge port in the Pommel where it would normally vent/resonate from?

EDIT:
It was interesting reading about the Colour Profiles having an increment of 5 during adjustments. I always thought it went by 10s, consistent to the Hero Onboard Menu. Always be learning.. :P
Last Edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by OvrcAHst. Reason: Need some more Caffeine...
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64510

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Andi-Jae EL wrote:
Hey Hot Rod,
Nice build! I might follow in your footsteps. I'm thinking about getting the Z6 for my own ASP install along with the SC2. Did you have to use resistors for your AV switches? I thought we had to since they don't come with an internal resistor from TCSS. My colors would be green and blue switches.


I think I would try the NECree. It's supposed to be more efficient, but the Z6 is a bright LED. I did use a resistor for the LED in the AV switch (I cheated and used a Dyna Ohm...which is a one fits most scenario). I have another thread going where Kouri, Jaden, and the community are trying to teach me how to calculate resistor needs. :-) I can't wait to see what you have come up with!

Thanks Hot Rod. I'll look into that thread. Do you have to do anything special using a dyna ohm? I would love to try the new NECREE but for a thin neck emitter I thought the Z6 would be better because of the die placement being in the center. What do you think? If the power of the NECREE can overcome the thin neck spacing, I'm willing to get that instead.
- Light em up

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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64514

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looks excellent, mate! and as i've requested in some builds, diagrams please and thanks!
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64543

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Finding enough color choices for the SC2 slots is haaard, lol. I ran out of colors.
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64599

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OvrcAHst wrote:
Thank you HotRod, have been on the edge of my seat anticipating Round5 and the Bout's riveting conclusion. Excellent writeup style and play by play commentary. Emerging as the Victor with a nice addition to your Collection and one that has been installed by yourself, Great Work!


Thank you!
This is a much more fun saber to play with than I had anticipated for its very short size. It is very short, but somehow doesn't feel short. I can't explain it. It just doesn't feel short to me.
Confucius say: It's not the size of the Hammer you wield but the Nail that is driven. ;)

Bwhahahaha!

Congratulations Mate, Awesome Saber.
Ohh.. Where does the the Speaker vent its sound since you installed the recharge port in the Pommel where it would normally vent/resonate from?

EDIT:
It was interesting reading about the Colour Profiles having an increment of 5 during adjustments. I always thought it went by 10s, consistent to the Hero Onboard Menu. Always be learning.. :P

Well, still through the pommel. The washers and recharge port don't completely plug up the grate in the pommel. The outer edges of the grate are still open. It definitely muffles the sound, but I'm using a 2w bass speaker, so it is more than loud enough to overcome the reduction in vents.

Regarding the increments, figured this out because I kept tweaking the adjustments by 1 and it wasn't making a change. I was trying to get orange and I had full on Red (255) and kept inching up the green. At 5, it made a difference to me. At 10 it looked like it changed again. Now my eyes could be deceiving me, but I'm guessing it's in increments of 5.


Andi-Jae EL wrote:

Thanks Hot Rod. I'll look into that thread. Do you have to do anything special using a dyna ohm? I would love to try the new NECREE but for a thin neck emitter I thought the Z6 would be better because of the die placement being in the center. What do you think? If the power of the NECREE can overcome the thin neck spacing, I'm willing to get that instead.

The orientation is important. There is a positive side and negative side of the resistor. Place the positive side of the resistor toward the power source (the board) and the negative side towards the LED on the positive (anode) wire of the AV Switch LED. That was what I found in my research that worked.

As to the NECree, honestly I'm not sure. I know a lot of folks here love the tri-crees. I would think it would have enough power. Keep in mind, I couldn't run my Z6 full blast because I was afraid it would trip the PCB in my battery. You most likely would not have that problem with the NECree, and the blade would last longer on a single charge most likely.
Gnost-Dural wrote:
looks excellent, mate! and as i've requested in some builds, diagrams please and thanks!

What would you like to see? The board wiring? I basically following this exact diagram without the two additional LEDs at the bottom. I hope this helps. :-)




BoostinIX wrote:
Finding enough color choices for the SC2 slots is haaard, lol. I ran out of colors.

You aren't kidding! HA. I have 2 reds, one with blue FoC and one with Green FoC. Funny, I did not have that problem with RGBA from Saberforge.


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64685

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Now I'm curious what the SF hero's come loaded with standard? I'd be open to a copy-paste font lol
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64727

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BoostinIX wrote:
Now I'm curious what the SF hero's come loaded with standard? I'd be open to a copy-paste font lol

I think SF Sabers come with:

- Father's Son
- Essence Episode 1
- Essense Episode 2
- All Too Easy
- Standard Issue
- 501 Commander

If you get the default files from SaberIgniter.com, you get

- Meteor
- Hidden Warrior
(I can't remember which two of the above were replaced for these two.

If you were referring to colors instead of fonts, I apologize and can't recall what comes out of the box. I always end up editing the files as soon as I get them. I think I have a default RGBA zip file somewhere if you wanted it. :-)


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64767

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I think we need a good repository on here for the RGB numerical settings people like/closest to SF colors
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64776

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I'm sure someone with the actual knowledge on how to code this could chim in, but I've wondered if some sort of "Color Mixing" preview app/webpage would be possible. We know the wavelength ranges different LED types and colors fall between, as well as their forward voltages and the voltage and current of the battery solution being used (i.e. what resistor they need). I know individual monitor/screen settings as well as certain LED colors' wide color ranges (like cyan, which can be green or blue depending on the bin, which is probably why SF chose to go with a blue and green die mix as opposed to just 4 cyan dies) would play a factor in its accuarcy, but I'm sure an approximated preview could be made of what color would be made mixing certain color dies, as well as what drive levels would be needed to make certain colors with an RGB(A) setup with a color mixing board (like if you want the SF indigo color, but you're using a rB/rB/R/G quad cree with a SC2) or even how to make certain colors by resistoring(?) certain dies more heavily in a non color mixing soundboard setup (like if you SF indigo color, but you're using a rB/R/W tri-Cree with NBv3).
2005 MR Vader
B/B/W Graflex 2.0
yellow SF ASP Interceptor
Last Edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by Jaden Korr.
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 2 weeks ago #64795

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Both having a tool to use for color mixing and having a record of the color settings would be nice.

I found an online tool that will allow you to do color mixing with RGB, but that doesn't work as well when dealing with RGBA and it works in percentages instead of 0-255

http://www.omsi.edu/tech/colormix.php

To both of your points, it is a pain if you're using a soundboard that does not allow for mixing on the fly. It can be a pain to have to pull an SD card, ratchet the color up 5 points, then put it back in, go to the font, and fire it up again.

One other possibly obvious but interesting thing...I have 2 RGBA sabers and both SC2. I used the EXACT same config in both...one produces a "close to white" color and other doesn't...meaning there is a difference in the LED. So I guess your results will vary.


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
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ASP "Nightstick" Hero Spark Color 2 and Z6 LED DIY 9 months 1 week ago #65067

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Out of all the ASP sabers I've seen so far, I think this one is my favorite. It really goes together very well and it seems like it'd also be very practical and comfortable.
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