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TOPIC: Just got one of my asp orders

Just got one of my asp orders 1 month 1 week ago #87852

  • Danielbs80
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This one came without electronics so i can get DIY.















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Just got one of my asp orders 1 month 1 week ago #87853

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Just got one of my asp orders 1 month 1 week ago #87854

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Only one complaint though. The emitter came with a lot of tooling marks or scratches on the top part and the body has some pits and dings along some edges so that is disappointing. I was kind of expecting perfection in the machining of the parts from the other reviews.






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Just got one of my asp orders 1 month 1 week ago #87881

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Other than the issue with the emitter I would say it is excellent. The pieces fit snug as a bug and it feels very sturdy. It was a little tricky getting my electronics in at first and I had to unwrap my electrical tape to reposition my soundboard because having the double-sided tape behind it to stick it on was making it a little high off the battery holder which was making a very tight fit so make sure your electronics are very low profile and it helps to not have any wires bunched up so solder them going flat off the sound board or if you use one of those wiring harness is it should be good. I had some lomg wires because at first I was thinking I want to be able to screw off the pommel and shake out the electronics for when I want to update the micro SD card with some settings but it's such a tight fit there's no way it's going to come out I would have to unscrew it from the switch section and push it out so it kind of defeats the purpose but I didn't bother making them all shorter so I just gravel them up and stuffed them up there mostly in the switch section.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88496

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SO I'm considering taking off the handle to push out the electronics so I can get the SDcard to make some changes to the config file and I'm a little nervous since it was such a pain to get everything in there with the wires being so long but I felt I got lucky and was able to screw the handle down without anything breaking. I I do have my soldering iron here and solder so worse case a wire will get snapped off and I can resolder it. I used 28 gauge wire but maybe I should have used a thinner wire. I just should have routed everything better but it was my first build and I was in a hurry to get it working and it lead to a very snug fit so the electronics won't easily come out the bottom like I had wanted it to which was the reason why for the long wire in the first place. I like how the sabercore will go into deep sleep after a little while and the switch led will turn off. I know the NBv4 will go in a deep sleep but I think it's set to not for a long time and I don't know if the led switch turns off for that one. I'll be looking at the manual.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88497

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Thats a nice looking saber.

I ordered the same switch section, but havnt seennit in person yet other than the store shots.

Looks very nice. Good work.

:)
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88498

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A great looking saber, loved it!
BANE mk2, Champion, Black/chrome, Deep red
ARBITER, Champion, Weathered, Blood orange
ERIS, Warrior, Dual tone, Indigo
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88499

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thank you yeah that switch is one of the best looking I think. I also picked it for the other ASP I ordered. It looks like I wired my switch led so that it will stay on instead of turn off durring deep sleep. Ohhhhh I donno if I wanna unwrap my board and unstick it and desolder and resolder to the other pad. what a pickle.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88500

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In order for accent LEDs to turn off when wired to the NB you have to have the positive going back to the deep sleep pad on the board. Tiny little pad on the side with out the SD card holder. Manual will show you were it is. You will need a very fine tip on your iron and 26 guage wire would be about as big as you want want to solder on that pad.

I'd like to give you some constructive tips and observations on your install. Some of which I think you have pointed out or discovered.

1-- Wiring is way too long and not very tidy. Work on shortening your wire runs and tidying things up.
2-- I see a lot of electrical tape being used. That may eventually wear away and could expose the electronics to the inside of the hilt and cause shorts. Either use a chassis, or shield the electronics. That can be done using velcro or a simple plastic tube.
3-- It looks like there are more wires than potentially needed. See about doing away with redundant wiring or overly complex wire runs.
4-- Heat shrink, I can't really tell if you are using any, it looks like electrical tape was used where wires are spliced or joined. I could be wrong though, hard to tell from your pictures. If you aren't using it, I would recommend you do so.
5-- Soundboard placement - it looks like you have the NB of pointing in the wrong direction. For the easiest access to the SD card, wire runs, and general performance you want the SD card to face down to the pommel and for the NB to be as low in the hilt as possible. Ideally in the bottom quarter.

Couple examples:

This is an NBv4 in a Graflex - different chassis and layout but the position of the NB isthe same as what you are shooting for


This is a Spark2 in a SF hilt, replace the spark2 with a NB and yo get the idea.


Here's a NBv4 with a PEX in a SF hilt:
www.etsy.com/shop/thekybershop

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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88502

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Yeah I know there are a lot of things I would have done differently but it would require me to pretty much unsolder everything and resolder the wires in a way they lay well and run flat strat away from the board and I don't know if I want to redo all that since it does work, just a pain to access the SDcard but I don't plan on wanting to get to the SDcard a lot anyway, I already have the sounds on there I'm happy with. I may open it up in a bit and see what I can do easily. Maybe I'll resolder that led switch so it turns off for deep sleep. I just don't like having to bother with a kiil key all the time.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88504

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Danielbs80 wrote:
Yeah I know there are a lot of things I would have done differently but it would require me to pretty much unsolder everything and resolder the wires in a way they lay well and run flat strat away from the board and I don't know if I want to redo all that since it does work, just a pain to access the SDcard but I don't plan on wanting to get to the SDcard a lot anyway, I already have the sounds on there I'm happy with. I may open it up in a bit and see what I can do easily. Maybe I'll resolder that led switch so it turns off for deep sleep. I just don't like having to bother with a kiil key all the time.

Honestly, if I were you, I would take it apart and redo it, and then take it apart and redo it again; learning experiences and practice. When I first started building I had a couple (still have them) sabers that were my learning hilts. I would build and rebuild them a lot. You will learn a lot doing that and it gives you the opportunity to see how you did things and where you could have done them better. Everytime you do that you improve a bit. I take apart and rebuild one of my sabers at least once a month. Helps me to see how my wire runs look, solder joints, little tiny details I can improve, etc. Reverse engineering your own installs is such an invaluable tool. it's one thing to build a bunch of sabers, but you learn a lot more from objectively critiquing you own work.

You can ask, there's at least two or three members here who've had me build them a saber and I've messaged them with something like "Well I got XYZ done on the saber, but I didn't like it, so im redoing it..." Be your own worst and best critic.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88506

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Wish I had the kind of free time to build something, take it apart and rebuild it. As it is, anything I do like messing with lightsabers or whatever I happen to be doing is taking time away from other things I need to be doing. I work 50 to 60 hours a week plus I'm a full time student.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88523

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It is time to do wut i have been dreading to do. Take apart of lightsaber to get to the sdcard and maybe do some rewiring
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88524

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Since my hands-on experience with electronics is nil as of now, I will instead tell you that a little bit of sanding on the parts can go a long way, to remove some of those scuffs you mentioned. The ASP parts are often a bit rougher than prebuilt or in-house sabers, but nothing a few pieces of sandpaper can't fix. Run along the grain of the parts you want to smooth out with progressively finer and finer grit sandpaper. You'll smooth out the rougher parts as well as make the hilt look pretty.


Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88527

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yeah that's what I was thinking at first but not sure if they put a clear coat on it cause it kinda looks like it but I donno. They said I could send it back in with a shipping label they would provide but what all the baloooony I don't want to even attempt to deal with all that hassle. Can you imagin getting something after waiting 3 months to only return it and have to wait who knows how long for it to get fixed? That's just nuts. I'll be ordering another emitter probably so they can start "production" on it. I don't understand all this production talk . Don't they have any parts on hand? It seems like they only make things as they get ordered. Especially on the parts that don't say preorder or back order, how is it that it needs to go through "production"?
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88528

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As far as I know, the hilts and parts are plain aluminum off the mill. Even if it was clear coated, you would still be able to take sandpaper to it and sand down the edges. You would just have to clear coat it again, I believe.


Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88535

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Oh oh oh ohhhhh. I unscrewed the Palm oh and shook it hard and it's slid out! Now if I can only pull it all the way out and maybe I'll be able to solder to the other pad and access to SD card without dealing with the mess of wires in the switch section.

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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88536

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And yes there is a little mess of wires that I soldered crazy to the board but I really don't want to redo it and it kind of serves as some cushion between the electronics and that helped to make it a little more snuggly.
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88537

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Danielbs80 wrote:
And yes there is a little mess of wires that I soldered crazy to the board but I really don't want to redo it and it kind of serves as some cushion between the electronics and that helped to make it a little more snuggly.

I really don't want to bring this up again, but the point must be made that this is not a solution. Crazy soldering wires to this thing is only going to create resistance damage for the wires. And being all bent up won't help matters, either.

I really have to once again advocate for using a chassis. If you've got a warranty and nothing broke yet and you're okay with sending it in for repairs, then fine. But if you've already voided a warranty or didn't have one to begin with and you know how to solder, then a $10 chassis to organize and protect everything is going to only benefit you here.


Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto
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Just got one of my asp orders 3 weeks 6 days ago #88538

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Well I had it all installed in a chassis when I first built the electronics before the hilt came and it was still a mess in fact even worse so just simply using a chassis wll not help unless you take the time to route the wires nicely and also what is critical is soldering the wires nice and flat in the direction needed for the orientation of the board you wish to place it in and I didn't take those things into account so much when I was doing it and it's not like it's really squishing hard or anything is putting pressure on any joints. The actual solder joints are well protected and have either electrical tape or liquid tape on it as well so all I'm dealing with is some messy wires.
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