So the Hitoren arrived at the end of last week, just about 2 weeks after the date of the order at The Pach Store. The total price was 131 dollars, which accounted for a $79 hilt, $20 for the in-hilt LED upgrade, and $32 shipping to the continental US (yeah, shipping was nearly 25% of the total cost). Shipping was done through DHL.
The package arrived at my door and did not require signature confirmation. I'm actually lucky to have noticed it, since the package was a tube and the delivery driver placed it near a bunch of poster tubes I have in my carport. It was a bit banged up and one of the sides was closed using exclusively packing tape, since I guess someone somewhere along the line lost the lid. THe hilt and blade were surrounded by an extraordinary amount of bubble wrap so the box damage wasn't an issue, but it was extremely hard to actually get everything out of the tube. I actually needed to use another lightsaber to push it out, it was packed so tightly.
The contents of the package:
The blade came with a baggy full of rubber washers and retention screws for blade retention and hilt alignment, since most of the parts are threaded. There was also a USB to 3.5mm recharge cord, though I haven't had a chance to test charging yet (I'll probably replace the battery before then, but that'll come later in the review). The retention screws in the bag were key since there are two holes for blade retention in the emitter and none were provided in-hilt. It comes with 2-3 extras as well, in case you lose some. My only problem with the retention was realizing that both screws were seemingly necessary with the thin wall blade, since it would wobble with only one. The polycarbonate flexed so much it was hard to determine what tightness was needed, so I ended up just using one of my SF blades for convenience.
As for the threaded parts, it's mostly super convenient. As you may be able to see in the picture, the blade and LED sections of the emitter are separate and allow better access to these areas for cable management. As for the pommel sections, the larger threaded part that would typically be part of the body cannot be removed without desoldering the speaker contacts. The section itself doesn't seem to serve much purpose, actually, since all of the electronics seemed to be crammed in the extended "switch" section (rather than the speaker and speaker wires). It does't even function as an echo chamber since the speaker is crammed up to a washer with some chicken wire at the very base of the pommel. It may be better to just remove this since the hilt is very long anyways.
The main issue with this many unsecured threaded sections with at just swinging the blade seems to loosen everything, so I'm not sure it can hold up without locking the threads.
Once it's all unscrewed, you can actually remove the 6W LED since it has a molex quick connector. You may need to do this to get better access to the switches, although there is plenty of slack in the cable. The heat sink and constuction of this module are very different from the ones I'm used to seeing so far. I'm tempted to undo the screw securing the heat sink and checking out the entire module (though it may get a bit messy seeing as it appears to be packed somewhat with thermal paste). The other unique thing is the convex lens. This will actually extend the lens a short distance into the blade itself, but I'm not sure if it's optically beneficial or detrimental. There's a physicist somewhere who'd know more.
Under the LED are your vertically staggered, back-to-back charge port and LED lit switch. I'm not sure how flexible this space is because the wires look tight. The only space to maneuver is to the left and right of the components, and those spaces seem filled with LED wiring and port/switch wiring. It personally scares me off from trying to adjust them and creating a lot of work for myself getting it right again.
On the other end of the long section, there's a clip that secures the battery in place. Once that's removed the battery falls out, allowing you to see the soundboard secured by short switch wires to the very underside of the switches. That doesn't look designed at all to allow soundboard access and just makes me curiouser and curiouser about it. I left it for now so my breakdown didn't become a teardown, but I tried to get a picture of the board as I could see it.
As for the battery itself, they went the route of an unprotected 18650 cell of unverified capacity. Not a huge fan of that. I'm probably going to see if I can swap it with a spare protected battery since the holder in the hilt is just insulated foam tape wrapped around the battery. The electrical connection is made by spring contacts which I'm fairly sure are held to the battery exclusively by the foam tape.
Now, aside from internals...
The saber runs pretty well. It has 4 sound fonts (I don't remember the names, but there's a standard one, a darker one, a kinda cosmic-y one, and a silent one). I haven't tested it enough to figure out sound variety. The sound quality isn't the best, but it's decent. I think it may be the chicken wire that's messing with the speaker a bit. The motion sensor sensitivity could be a bit better, since waving the blade doesn't always produce a noise. The 6W light is decent and the switch LED appears to match the color of the blade. There is no pulse, flicker or FoC, just a solid colored blade. Overall, a decent and cheap lightsaber with a bunch of 'premium' features. With the length of the hilt, there's probably some room for customization and improvement for a DIY saber owner as well.