TOPIC: Prodigy "Weathered" - NBv4 RGB install

I installed this for a client recently and was reasonably impressed with the deign of the hilt. I've been a fan of the apprentice line from SF and the prodigy is a great example of the value you get on an apprentice line saber.

As will most apprentice hilts, this is a solid one piece construction that is slim and very comfortable to wield. I like the mashup of graflex inspired emitter and the ribbed hilt, it has an almost scraptech feel and look to it. It's also ripe for modification. I could see adding some greeblies to this to really take it to the next level. I may pick one of these up for my collection to do just that.

From an install perspective there's nothing new here, very much a standard Apprentice line install, the switch section ID is a little thinner that others, so a long AV switch will require trimming of the solder legs to fit. There's just enough room for a chassis containing battery, sound board and speaker with enough extra length for wiring to be long enough to allow the chassis to slide out almost entirely. You could even go with a removable battery setup with this one.

This particular hilt received a Nano Biscotte V4 with a Power Extender for three channels. It features an RGrB LED and allows for full spectrum color mixing. Power is provided by an 18650 Li-Ion battery rated at 3500mah and 10amps. Sound is driven by a 2w 4ohm "bass" speaker from KR sabers. I have put a new style of switch in, a tactile 12mm. It features a very short throw and has that wonderful "clicky" feedback. Charging is done through the usual 12mm offset RCP. Since the board has deep sleep, no kill key required.

Nice saber Jas! How long have you been installing?

jedielijah wrote:
For commissions, almost 2 years.

For personal. I've been only doing pnp kits. I'm wanting to step out to full installing ( other sound boards) and electronics.

My suggestion:

Start out with an easy board, Nano Biscotte is a great place to start. You'll also need to learn to wire up your own LED. Easiest installs would be a Saber core 2 board, with a SF LED. step up form there would be either a NBv4 or a Pico Crumble. NEC boards are a little tougher (spark2, spark color 2, igniter 3). Do yourself a favor and use a chassis.

Start off with Pre-Wired batteries, soldering leads to your own can be a little intimidating.

Jas-Ot wrote:
I've heard a lot of people say the Prizm is easier than the NB because the pads are spaced out more. I have a Prizm v4 that's gonna be one of my first, since there's a local saber builder that offered to mentor some of us folks in my area if we wanted to (he's been on a few episodes of "Saber Talk" with SpaceWindu).

While this thread is on the building subject... out of curiosity, why do you think most people elect not to use the NECree RGB? It seems like it'd be way simpler to wire up. I plan on using that for my first few at least. PCB setup for common anode (+) and SMD resistor for the red.
Jas-Ot wrote:
Not to mention explosive....

I agree that the prizm has a lot more space on it for the pads. Honestly, either the prizm or nano is a great starter board since that's what I started on. Only beef I have with the V4 prizm is that the motion sensitivity parameters are defined in a much different manner than the 5.1 as in the parameter "i" defines the gate for which motion is detected if memory serves me correctly. The 5.1 gave me much better customization for swings to get it to a more natural flow.

NecRGB is a fantastic concept and I highly recommend it for first installs on the basis that a lot of people get confused about what resistors to use on a high power led.

I'd say the Prizm is marginally more difficult because of where the pads are, and it requires more thought as far as wire management goes. Technical soldering difficulty is about the same. NB you can basically run all the wires in one direction except for the speakers. but even then those just go 180 degrees. With the Prizm, you will need to plan out where you intend to run the wires and you may need to solder the wires in multiple directions. With practice you can pull off a zero visible wire install with a Prizm, but it will take some practice and learning to pull that off.

Same holds true for NEC boards and the CF, you have pads in multiple spots on the board, and wire management becomes more difficult.