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TOPIC: Slightly Modified Reliant

Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9014

  • TFU2-SK
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Hi Everyone,

Though I'd share a picture of my slightly modified Reliant.
I ordered the base model without any electronics or handle wrapping. I also asked not to have any holes drilled for the activation buttons.
I ordered this at the end of November and it arrived in the UK by the middle of March.

I had to sand the edges of the control box a little to smooth them off.
I also rounded the chamfer near the narrow neck, which is not easy to see in the photo, to match how I see the saber in the promo image.
Finally, I cut in the keyhole slot on the rear of the emitter, which can be seen in the reverse grip Starkiller promo image.






Later I will try polishing it closer to a mirror finish.
I decided to wrap the saber with a black, heavy linen ribbon, that has a frayed and slightly aged look to it. For me the leather looked too thick.


Finally a question: Can the hilt be unscrewed just below where the controller box is mounted?

There appears to be a break line here, but I'm not 100% sure.
If so, it seems fairly well glued. Any tips for un-gluing it?
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9018

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Nice. Looks good so far man.

As far as your inquiry goes. From what I know on the threads they use an adhesive or lock-tite. Unsure which however as there are different colors of locktite which provide different strengths. Regardless, use a heat gun on a low setting. If you don't have a heat gun, a blow dryer should possibly also work. Heat the area (do not over heat) and separate.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9090

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Thanks Cigam,

I've tried that, but I couldn't get it to unscrew.
So not sure if I'm doing something wrong, or if the hilt is a single piece.

Do you use clamps or soft grips to unscrew the parts?
Last Edit: 3 years 1 week ago by TFU2-SK.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9100

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Wish I could be of more help my friend. But I truly don't know. Especially under the switch box? I can't see it being able to separate there but I'm only guessing.

Maybe someone else has a Reliant that has disassembled their's that may stumble across this post and be able to give ya more of an answer.
Or see if there are any people that have posted reviews from owning the Reliant as well and send them a PM and see if they have done a tear down?

I think some people choose not to due to the 1 yr warranty and others choose not to as they're intimidated by wiring and electronics and would rather not deal with disassembly.

But I look forward to seeing how it looks when finished.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9109

  • DarthMario95
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This is from the SaberForge Facebook page, hope it helps:


"Always a pleasure to meet a Jedi…"

Last Edit: 3 years 1 week ago by DarthMario95.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9113

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I saw a video a while ago (On youtube) of phil just unscrewing the handle part without removing any other parts! He also said not long ago that the reliant is modular, so you can use its parts to create your own lightsaber!

I'll try to find the video again and show you! It seemed pretty easy to do!
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9115

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I thought that they typically glue the threads on these sabers, even if there aren't any electronics. Something about not wanting a saber to unscrew in a wielder's hands while dueling? And I was also under the impression that you had to request the glue to be left out. But then again, I have been wrong before. And I expect I shall be wrong again, many times. :P
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Slightly Modified Reliant 3 years 1 week ago #9149

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Thanks everyone,

Good to know that the pieces can be separated.

I will see if I can find some strap wrenches to undo the thread lock with.
Last Edit: 3 years 1 week ago by TFU2-SK.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 2 years 10 months ago #12321

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DarthMario95 wrote:
This is from the SaberForge Facebook page, hope it helps:



Do you know if that red button is threaded and acts as the set screw for the LED module?
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Slightly Modified Reliant 2 years 10 months ago #12326

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Most of the screws that sf uses are just normal ones. Most of the decorative pieces you see on hilts like that aren't actually used as retention screws. But I believe there are some exceptions to this, and also doesn't mean you couldn't make them work that way yourself. :)
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Slightly Modified Reliant 2 years 10 months ago #12328

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I suppose as long as the threads match and are long enough, it can be used as a set screw for the blade/LED.
Can just use my tap set as well if it the thread pitch is different.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 2 years 9 months ago #13389

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Hey guys, I apologize for the off topic comment, but I was doing a bit of research and I came across these:




Does anyone know what happened to these two versions of the Reliant? They both look awesome (especially the Ven Zallow style, brass detailed one) and I'm rather interested in buying one. Is there a way to request either one of these styles in the order comments, or did I arrive too late to buy one of these?
Bowties are cool... And so are Lightsabers!
Last Edit: 2 years 9 months ago by Andrew Ford.
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Slightly Modified Reliant 1 year 11 months ago #53647

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Andrew Ford wrote:
Hey guys, I apologize for the off topic comment, but I was doing a bit of research and I came across these:




Does anyone know what happened to these two versions of the Reliant? They both look awesome (especially the Ven Zallow style, brass detailed one) and I'm rather interested in buying one. Is there a way to request either one of these styles in the order comments, or did I arrive too late to buy one of these?

Yeah I'd love to purchase the bottom one of those two pics. I just wish there was a way I can make the activation box functional on the Reliant and swap out the activation button with a recharge/rice port
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Slightly Modified Reliant 1 year 11 months ago #53945

  • Jaden Korr
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BobaMarek wrote:
Yeah I'd love to purchase the bottom one of those two pics. I just wish there was a way I can make the activation box functional on the Reliant and swap out the activation button with a recharge/rice port

Those two hilts are the early incarnations of the Reliant from a while back, before it became more of a take on the saber from the TFU II trailer.

The box on the current Reliant is very tiny, though something like a Pololu micro switch (which is used in a lot of Graflex sabers with box activation) or a tall tactile switch (like what TCSS carries) could be used in place of the usual 12 mm AV switch. Some major cutting would have to be done to the box and hilt for this though.

But putting a recharge port in the switch hole wouldn't be any trouble, as SF's recharge ports fit in the same size hole; that's what the second switch hole is for (hero tier sabers get a third hole drilled for the 2nd switch).
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Slightly Modified Reliant 1 year 11 months ago #54721

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Jaden Korr wrote:
BobaMarek wrote:
Yeah I'd love to purchase the bottom one of those two pics. I just wish there was a way I can make the activation box functional on the Reliant and swap out the activation button with a recharge/rice port

Those two hilts are the early incarnations of the Reliant from a while back, before it became more of a take on the saber from the TFU II trailer.

The box on the current Reliant is very tiny, though something like a Pololu micro switch (which is used in a lot of Graflex sabers with box activation) or a tall tactile switch (like what TCSS carries) could be used in place of the usual 12 mm AV switch. Some major cutting would have to be done to the box and hilt for this though.

But putting a recharge port in the switch hole wouldn't be any trouble, as SF's recharge ports fit in the same size hole; that's what the second switch hole is for (hero tier sabers get a third hole drilled for the 2nd switch).

Can the Reliant split into two?
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Slightly Modified Reliant 1 year 11 months ago #54726

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DarthMario95 wrote:
This is from the SaberForge Facebook page, hope it helps:




Is this hilt glued together?
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Slightly Modified Reliant 1 year 11 months ago #54798

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The Reliant is threaded, screwed, and glued together. That's an older picture so the build has changed a bit since then.
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