TOPIC: Looking for AV switches in cool colors?

Looking for AV momentary switches that aren't the standard black or silver? Then check out places that sell vaping mod supplies! I grabbed an anodized red one and pure brass one from a website called dripp3d.com, but there are a lot of them out there to choose from, including some UK based ones.



They arrived just under 48 hours after I placed the order for them (they originated in Texas), and for $2 something shipping they were shipped in a sturdy box instead of a flexible envelop.

The red one is from a brand called Fat Daddy Vapes (on the website it was listed under FDV 12mm soft tactile switch), and came in anodized black, silver, red, copper, and brass. It goes for $3.75, has a 12mm body with a 14mm face (VERY important, since the SF switch holes have that exact hole and countersink(?) measurement), 9mm button face, and 12mm overall height.

The brass one didn't have a specific brand name I could see; it was simply listed as12mm flat brass push button. It's made from brass as opposed to colored like it, so it will develop a patina (which is what I wanted to match my screws I used in my saber) if not polished. It costs $4, has a 12mm body with a 16mm face (I was aware of this when I purchased it) and 10.8mm overall height.

Both switches require quite a bit of pressure to depress (if you've used the tactile switches that come with the Graflex 2.0 kit, they're like that) compared to other momentary switches I've encountered. Combined with how the buttons are flush with the switch faces, there's no chance of accidental activation when handling your saber. Because of this, there is a very faint click when they are depressed. Both switches are rated for 18VDC, so well within the parameters for a lightsaber application.


Cram fu practitioners rejoice!

These switches have a very small footprint inside the hilt, but don't expect to get the included nut on them. These are gonna have to be glued in.

Without the included o-rings:


With the o-rings:


I'm going to see if I can cut/sand down the excess face material off the brass one, otherwise I'll have to order the FDV anodized one and see if I can weather it somehow.

Oooooo I'll be looking at these later

Meant to try those Fat Daddy switches on my ASP hilt and totally forgot. Thanks for the reminder.

Also, if you don't feel like gluing, a tip I picked up elsewhere is to wrap the switch threads with enough electric tape so that they've got a friction-fit into the switch hole.

That's how I leave mine the first few days, test phase and such.

Now if I could just get the rattle out of my phoenix hilt, lol

Been waiting for you to post on these switches as I figured you wanted to have weathered brass like me. Is the thread body and flange a solid piece of brass? Just curious if I could turn it down to 14mm in a lathe.

It does look like the face and the body are different pieces. There's the tiniest bit of space between the two, but it still feels pretty solid.

I didn't get to it yet (Pokémon Go wore me out today), but tomorrow I'll try some stuff out on it.

KEWL BEANS!
Thanks for posting this - I've noticed TCSS and Solo's Hold are "out of stock" on the lighted AV switches as of yesterday (7/14). I was also looking elsewhere and found some nice ones listed under 'Marine/Boat' parts and some for Custom electrical Car parts - although most of the ones I found were larger 16mm and 19mm

I'm SO tempted to use an 'on switch' logo... just for giggles...





Silly NOOB QUESTION regarding the switches in general - The ones you show have only TWO prongs, but most of the ones I see on TCSS or SH or elsewhere have FOUR. Is there a function limitation between the two types? meaning, will I not be able to do something with the switch that has two that I really need 4?

The extra two prongs are for the switch LED. They'll be marked with a + and - sign.

Was kinda bummed. Wish the smaller ones (our size) has as many color choices as the bigger ones.

I'm liking the new segmented LED switches that Saberforge is coming out with. It's a small change, but I think those look good. I wish we could get more patterned LEDs on the switches, like this maybe:




I'm sure there are technical challenges that would prevent something like this, but it would be cool.

Nice! Exactly what I needed.

Finally got the brass switch sanded down today; just used mostly low grit sandpaper (with some higher ones for smoothing it out) and elbow grease. It may not be perfectly circular anymore, but it works and is still wide enough it pressure fits into the hilt.


I didn't use the included o-ring so it would have a slightly lower profile.


Testing it with the ASP parts

Very nice I like it a lot! It will look even better once the brass gets some patina on it. I will definitely have to go with that switch when I upgrade to sound from my warrior electronics. I wish they made latching switches.

Some "silver" latching switches, like THIS one, are actually nickel plated brass. I have heard of people stripping the plating off, but I don't know the exact details of the process.

That Brass Switch is sick!