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TOPIC: First DIY build, need a little help before I start

First DIY build, need a little help before I start 1 year 5 months ago #68256

  • Seenemo
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Hi everyone, firs time builder here! I have looked around online and through this forum, but I could not find an exact way/best way to wire this. I have some experience with electrical diagrams but it is basic.

My parts list:
-12w (red orange) 350mA max 2.6v (can someone confirm this)
-18650 battery + battery holder
-Recharge port with charger and kill key
-Sound board champion saberCore 2.0
-Hi-Bass speaker
-Switch

I have found :
https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/adaptive-saber-parts/11817-mod-add-charge-port-and-lighted-switch-to-asp

This seems to be the most promising, but I dont get why the positive line in-between the charge port and the switch has a resistor.


My second question is how do I wire the LED board?


I have seen 2-3 different setups for the led and am more confused than when I started.

Do 1-2-4-5 go in series with 1 ground wire leaving?
I also read that the 2 positives are already connected together, Is this true? and if that is the case could I have just one positive wire leaving?


Any help would be appreciated!
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First DIY build, need a little help before I start 1 year 5 months ago #68348

  • Snakeeyz99
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Seenemo wrote:
Hi everyone, firs time builder here! I have looked around online and through this forum, but I could not find an exact way/best way to wire this. I have some experience with electrical diagrams but it is basic.

My parts list:
-12w (red orange) 350mA max 2.6v (can someone confirm this)
-18650 battery + battery holder
-Recharge port with charger and kill key
-Sound board champion saberCore 2.0
-Hi-Bass speaker
-Switch

I have found :
https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/adaptive-saber-parts/11817-mod-add-charge-port-and-lighted-switch-to-asp

This seems to be the most promising, but I dont get why the positive line in-between the charge port and the switch has a resistor.


My second question is how do I wire the LED board?


I have seen 2-3 different setups for the led and am more confused than when I started.

Do 1-2-4-5 go in series with 1 ground wire leaving?
I also read that the 2 positives are already connected together, Is this true? and if that is the case could I have just one positive wire leaving?


Any help would be appreciated!

I'll answer your questions in order.

The resistor between the switch and the charge port is only necessary if you have a lit AV switch, as is the lead to the "negative" terminal on the switch. This resistor should be sized based on the battery voltage and switch LED forward voltage such that the current through the LED is 20mA.

For the LED star, the positive pads should be connected on a Saberforge star. For the negatives, there are two possibilities. One is that all of the negatives are separate, allowing control of each individual color, or 1 and 2 are interconnected and 4 and 5 are interconnected. This is typical of most SF stars, but it would probably be best practice to check whether the pads are connected using the continuity function on a multimeter. I've attached an old sketch I made of the more common scenario.


You'll only require one positive lead in either configuration, and depending on the wiring method and if you jump the pads you'll probably end up with 1, 2, or 4 negative leads that are each resistored separately. Here's some images of the wiring on an old 12W red module:



You can see how the negatives control each pair of LEDs, then each pair has its own 1 ohm resistor (in the second picture I unintentionally broke the wire from the solder joint on the top pad, but you can see where it was connected). The leads are connected south of the resistors to simplify the wiring back to the LED contact on the board.
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First DIY build, need a little help before I start 1 year 5 months ago #68384

  • Seenemo
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Thanks for the answer. That clears up a lot of things!

I have an illuminated switch, my battery is 3.7v and I need 20 mA at the switch, I've seen a few builds with a variable resistor, dyne ohm 4006-025ma. Im gonna go with that

And for the led it now makes way more sense, both orange leds are on one side, and red on the other.
Does a resistor of 3 ohms @ 3 W make sense? Id have one negative on each side.
Last Edit: 1 year 5 months ago by Seenemo.
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First DIY build, need a little help before I start 1 year 5 months ago #68488

  • Snakeeyz99
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Red-Orange is actually a color of die, so instead of 2 red die and 2 orange (which would probably be amber, giving a blood orange LED) you'll just have 4 red-orange die. Based on the Cree XQ-E data sheet, the voltage drop is typically 2.2V. The calculations required are shown in the following diagram, assuming a current draw of 1A per die:



In their sabers I believe SF uses 1 ohm (+-1%) ~4W resistors for their red/red-orange colors. If you were to use one here the current through each die would be 0.75 A, which is a pretty decent drive current and avoids the issue of pinpointing precise resistance values (which could be somewhat pricey at the wattage required).
Last Edit: 1 year 5 months ago by Snakeeyz99.
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First DIY build, need a little help before I start 1 year 5 months ago #68489

  • Jas-Ot
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Best to test out the pads to see if any of the LEDS are connected.

Red based LEDs are 2.2v min and will usually light up (dimly) if you use a AA battery to test them with. If the AA battery doesn't work, you can wire a 1ohm resistor and use that on your 3.7v Li-Ion battery. They will be VERY bright though. So don't look right at them.

The positive is always wired together, but like Snakeeys99 said, you may have the negatives assigned individually, or in series on one side of the die.

I recently purchased a custom R/Pr/G/G X4 star from SF and asked for the LEDs to be independent.

I wired them together myself to create the the R/Pr mix and the separate G/G channel.

This is for a more complex build than would be required or capable on the Sabercore.20 board. But would be a good example of how you can wire everything together if you do get a star with independent LEDs.



Each pad has a wire coming off, 6 total wires coming down - The Negatives on the R and Pr are attached to 1Ohm 2W resistors and then connected together and teamed with the positive wire for their side of the die. The G/G dies have the negative wires joined together and then teamed with the positive wire on their side of the die. This gives me two separate LED channels for color mixing. You could in theory connect all of the negatives to create a single LED channel mixing all the LEDs together.

I didn't snap a pic of the star itself, but it looks just like the one Snakeeyz99 posted, just imagine a wire coming down from each pad.
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Last Edit: 1 year 5 months ago by Jas-Ot.
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