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TOPIC: ASP Arrived Today!
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72543
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Just received my ASP order! It still needs some adjusting to make the parts fit, but here's what it's going to look like when all the parts are aligned properly:
PARTS LIST: Epoch Emitter Gladius Switch, Flipped Sinister Body Pommel #10 Now, I'm going to do my own electronics install, but I'm not sure what soundboard I need. I'm wanting something that I can use my SF 12w+ LED units with, and be able to edit sound fonts whenever I want. I don't really want FoC, so it's not important for the soundboard to have that function. I was kind of thinking about going with a pre-wired NBv3 from TCSS, since I'm still very new at saber building and soldering, but I believe I read on here that they aren't compatible with the SF 12w+ units. Does anyone have any advice? |
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Execute66, Borommakot
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72550
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Nice looking hilt!
NBv3 would be the easiest thing to solder to it has decent sized pads on it and it's VERY straight forward. It will sort of work with a SF LED. PL boards have a common positive and the SF LEDs have a common positive on them. This is ok as long as you don't want more than one LED channel. You'd get a sort of flicker effect on the Sf LED with a NBv3 when it clashes since you wouldn't be able to wire a FOC LED. I personally haven't tried using a NB with a SF LED because of those issues. The Spark2 from NEC plays perfectly nice with a SF X4 star since it has a common positive, you could do two channel color mixing and FOC and blade effects (assuming you wire it up that way). That being said, it's a harder board to work with than the NBv3. The pads are much smaller for one thing, and you have to bridge the TruDrive (I have a post up that goes into the initial pre-wiring setup for one) |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72552
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I have several thin Neck ASP Sabers that are using a X4 and NB3, but I usually run them divided 2 for main blade, 2 for flash on clash, x4 works perfectly just not as a 12w set up. the NB3 is a fantastic Soundboard, like Jas-ot says its very user friendly.
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72553
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Forgive the noob question, but if I only have one LED channel, does that mean my LED unit can only consist of one color instead of a mixed color? For example, I would be able to use my Deep Blue LED unit, but not my Mint Green.
And is there a way to turn off the FOC? I don't really care to have it. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72554
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Rennek wrote:
Forgive the noob question, but if I only have one LED channel, does that mean my LED unit can only consist of one color instead of a mixed color? For example, I would be able to use my Deep Blue LED unit, but not my Mint Green. If your LED iswired for 1 channel then you can only have 1 color, but on a NB3 you can only have 1 channel for main blade anyway. and if you don't wire to the FoC pin on the Card you wont have FoC. but yes I do believe there is a setting to turn off FoC if it were wired.
And is there a way to turn off the FOC? I don't really care to have it. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72555
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Congrats! That's a great looking hilt!
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Rennek
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72556
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By channel we mean the number of connections from the sound board. So wiring a single channel would go back to the whole LED. If you have a prebuilt LED from SF that would be a single channel for all 4 of the LEDs on the star
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72557
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Let me clarify, my earlier statements, The PRE-BUILT Sf LEDs will sort of work on the NBv3
If you got a custom X4 it would work as long as you split it into two channels back to the NBv3 The Spark two will work with the PRE-BUILT out of the box driving full power to it even on a single channel. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72559
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Rennek wrote:
Forgive the noob question, but if I only have one LED channel, does that mean my LED unit can only consist of one color instead of a mixed color? For example, I would be able to use my Deep Blue LED unit, but not my Mint Green.
Basically, you can only use the mixed color rather than using mixed, color 1, and color 2. Take my Arctic Blue Hero Galdius for example. It's the old style Hero that is "6w Blue / 6w Green" (rather than RGBA) using the Spark Color 2 board. So I can have either 12w Arctic Blue, 6w Royal (Deep) Blue, or 6w Green. And that's because the Blue and Green are wired to their own channels on the board. So on NBv3, your Mint Green can only be Mint Green rather than having the ability to use the dies that make it up individually, or using them at different strengths. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72590
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Thanks guys! I think I understand now. A single channel shouldn't be a problem for what I'm wanting to do.
Quick alignment question. I need my emitter to tighten a little bit more to align properly with the switch. I've been watching the video on TCSS about aligning threaded parts, but I can't use timing shims there because of the way the Gladius switch is designed, so I think I'm going to have to sand. Am I correct in thinking that I will need to sand the male end of the Gladius switch to get it to align with the emitter? Here's a photo showing how much it's off. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72600
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Rennek wrote:
Thanks guys! I think I understand now. A single channel shouldn't be a problem for what I'm wanting to do.
Quick alignment question. I need my emitter to tighten a little bit more to align properly with the switch. I've been watching the video on I can't use timing shims there because of the way the Gladius switch is designed, so I think I'm going to have to sand. Am I correct in thinking that I will need to sand the male end of the Gladius switch to get it to align with the emitter? Here's a photo showing how much it's off. Great looking hilt!!! I'd suggest using a timing shim or two to fix the alignment. Could be easier than sanding. Also I'm following this thread because i'm in the same position. I have a NBv3 and a 12w+ SF green LED. I'm not using FoC, so the basic single channel/two-wire LED setup is perfect. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72601
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Wow I love this build it looks amazing. The Gladius switch and the epoch emitter look perfect together. Unfortunately, I see your problem that the timing shims wouldn't work on the Gladius switch, I think you might have to sand it down carefully but someone else might have a better idea
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72605
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I've had nothing but problems with NBv3 and SF LEDs. JAS, is there something I've been doing wrong? I feel like its a resistor issue but my LEDs end up dimmer than they should be, like it isn't running all the diodes.
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RELEASE THE KRAKEN!
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72606
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IIRC the NB is rated at 2.5 amps on the main channel (I haven't tested this personally but some say it will push beyond that to a little over 3 amps). The SF LED Stars are rated to 4amps (4 dice at 1amp each). Now there is some debate and rumor out there that the SF LEDs do not pull a full 4 amps.
That being said, if you hook up all 4 LEDs on the SF star to the main channel on the NB they will not run full power. I think most people split the X4 stars into a 2x2 arrangement and put two dice on the main channel and the other two on the FOC pad. You could probably also get away with a 3x1 arrangement. |
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The following user(s) said Thank You: RotundChap
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72608
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Try a rubber washer
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The light shall burn away the darkness
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72621
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Very nice ASP!
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"I am the Senate"
The following user(s) said Thank You: Rennek
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72644
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So, Jas, if you did either the 2x2 or 3x1 setup, and disabled the FoC, would the LED run at full power?
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72646
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You wouldn't disable FOC in that setup
You'd put the second channel on the FOC pad. You'd get close enough to full power. I wouldn't order an X4 to pair with am NB though (unless is going in a SF thin neck). If you had one to reuse then I'd say do it, otherwise if you are starting fresh pair order a Tri-cree with it. I'll be doing a wiring tutorial for the pico crumble and NBv3 and posting up to the forum in the next two or three weeks. |
ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72671
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OK, so I've been sanding on the male end of the Gladius switch, and it doesn't seem to be making a difference. Should I be sanding the female end of the Epoch emitter instead?
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ASP Arrived Today! 11 months 2 weeks ago #72672
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Female End
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Rennek
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