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TOPIC: How to change a no-quick connect LED system
How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 2 days ago #74990
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Hi,
I want to change the a LED system that has no quick connect: In quick connect I saw that there is a bridge inside the led plate, here it seems it is done outside or is it something more then a bridge? (resistance?) When I order a non-quick connect led system, how does it come? with three cables coming out of the module? or two? thank you in advance |
How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 2 days ago #74991
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It really depends on the LED.
The connector used in QC is a micro-deans as seen on this. 
How many wires depends on what LED it was color-wise. The bulge you see is your resistors. When you order without quick-connects, it just has wires coming out (however many were needed for that LED). When there's 4 of 1 color, yes. They bridge the connections to allow 1 negative. When there's multiple color dies, you'll have multiple wires to allow proper resistors per color. In order to change that LED, you'd have to cut the wires and solder another one on. |
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How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 2 days ago #74994
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Also worth mentioning that quick connects are not compatible with Hero tier sabers. At least from what I've been told by SF customer service.
If you have a warrior/champion setup or some other type of soundboard besides Spark Color 2, I think you are good to go. |
How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 1 day ago #75012
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Oups, I don't really get it yet.
It is a warrior hilt. The LEd system on the picture is Red, what should be 4 red and I want to order and install white, what I believe is 3W+1B, so should I keep the resistor?? (it is getting crazy hot when on). Where is the resistor in the quick connect system? thank you |
How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 1 day ago #75015
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Sorry, I think you can ignore my post. I thought you wanted to add a quick connect.
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How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 1 day ago #75016
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When you buy an LED, it comes pre-resistored. In your pic, it's the bulge under the heat shrink. Selecting QC means you get the micro-deans on the end vs. no end/loose wires. If you're buying SF LED's you won't have to worry about resistors.
LED is going to get very hot. The housing is metal, attached directly to the LED. Simplest answer: To get a white LED on your warrior- you'd need to buy a QC White LED from SF, cut off your Red LED, solder a QC onto your warrior, plug in. |
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How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 1 day ago #75025
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ok, so I can actually cut out the red LED with the resistor that is in the bulge, buy a led system on SF without QC and just solder the 2 simple cables together following the color code. is that right?
BoostinIX, your proposition is the same but adding the whole quick connect system to it, right? But I can sold, so no problem right? |
How to change a no-quick connect LED system 2 months 20 hours ago #75043
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You are correct, if you purchase an LED module saberforge will put the resistors on it so you will end up with just the positive and negative leads at the bottom. You'll cut the LED wires on your saber underneath the black bulge (the resistors) and you'll be able to solder the wires together and they most certainly should be the same color.
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The following user(s) said Thank You: jeremey
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