TOPIC: NBv4 build

So a little while ago I got an empty ASP Hilt from saberforge that I installed my own Electronics in and it's been working great but just last night I will turn it on and I would have it start up sound and it would play The Hum and the light would come on and be flickering and it would seem good but then just seconds later the light would turn off and the sound would turn off but yet the LED switch would remain on which is normal for it to be on anyway so I'm wondering what's going on I checked all the wiring and everything and everything is fine and then I checked the battery and so I pulled it out and I stuck it into one of my smart Chargers that has little light indications that will light up every time it reaches a certain level of charge and the 18 650 seems to be taking a really long time to charge and is blinking barely on the second light so could be that the battery was too low on voltage? I am wondering if the LED switch light was on just because it doesn't require as much voltage. It's odd because I have been using this charger I have that I normally charge my drones with that you can set how you want it to charge so I have it set to charge a lilo battery for 3.6 at .5amp and I was running that all night and supposedly it went for like 2 hours and then it said finished but I was still having that problem and when I took it out and put it in my big charger that is dedicated for that kind of battery it's acting like it doesn't have much charge in it at all

3.6v at .5a isn't enough to charge the battery right. You need a 4.2v charger - 2-3amp would give you a faster charge.

Welllll. I just installed the fully charged battery and it still turns off agter a few seconds. Hmmmmmmm. I wonder whu this is happening all if a sudden. The only thing i did recently was swap the speaker.. could it be a corrupt sd csrd?

Hmmmm. Im having a suspicion its corrupt files

So whats happening is itll boot up with light and sound bery well amd a few seconds late the light cuts out amd the sound at the same time and a kind of whistle comes from the speaker for a second then onky the led switch remains on. I tried a different sd card and the origional files even but got same results. All my solder joints are good and ive even redone anything questionable and make my wiring better. It has to be the board since its cutting out the speaker and light at the same time right. How are this problems happening after the install of this new speaker? Should i swap it bsck to the high bass one that was in there? It cant be the speaker cause i desoldered it and tried it ans the light still cut out. Maybe the formware got messed up? I someone messed up the firmware on my sabercore by installing a speaker where it wouldnt sound or light up and had to reflash it. How does installing a speaker mess up Anything?! This is so weird. Theres no way to even flash these boards. The site says u gotta send it in. Ohhhhhhh myyyyyyy gawwwwd. Im ordering a nrw one and ill see it it works and if it does its gotta be the firmware and ill srnd this one in to get flashed then ill have two! If its not one saber its the other!

Did you resistor the leds? Did you use a quick connect on the led module? Can try unplugging it and see if it runs? I can say honestly that I’ve ever had a issue with one of these cards. Something maybe tripping the pcb on the battery, or your battery is dead, do you have a volt meter? You should have a standing voltage of 4.1-4.2 when the saber if off with a full charge. I only usually hear that squeal from the speaker with a completely dead battery.

Hmmm. I do have quick disconnects on my led. Ill see

Still turns off after a few seconds. Ill try to find my meter

These are some of the growing pains and learning curves you go through when you build your first sabers.

That said you aren't doing yourself any favors by not using a chassis and some of the other things we have tried to point out to you to help you out. I would highly recommend you gut and rebuild it with a proper chassis.

PSA I did on installs a couple days ago.

I rebuilt it last night and I put the card on the bottom and the wires shoulder and nice and straight everything is nice and neat but that same problem is still happening. I would understand it if I didn't have any experience with anything prior and just built my first lightsaber and it didn't work out right but I built it the first time within around 30 minutes it's and it worked perfectly and it has been for about a month now until just recently when I did this speaker swap and now all of a sudden I turn it on and it goes on fine and then it turns itself back off except for the LED switch and I have tried to batteries so I don't even think it's a battery problem plus I made all the wiring much better and much shorter I unsoldered and resoldered eerything making much nicer and smaller connections to make sure nothing touches anything else. I replaced many of the wires with brand new wires. There's absolutely nothing else left I can do I was even looking at it under a microscope to make sure there were no solder joints touching anything it shouldn't be.

So what I just did was I ordered a new Nano biscotti and a few other things so I'm going to swap out the board and probably send this one in to get reflashed because I have a suspicion that is the problem since I somehow messed up the firmware on the saber core by doing a speaker swap because I had to reflash that bored myself which was easy to do buy the software on the PC and after I reflashed it it worked perfectly again but it had initially some of the same kind of problems I'm having with this board.

Jas-Ot wrote:
Good Lord Jas! I almost choked on my lunch while watching this.......such a shame that these idiots are taking advantage of people and ripping them off. Thanks for sharing that....I’ve read stuff like that happening before but I haven’t seen one that bad—that crystal chamber, what a joke!

Man! Talk about an example of what NOT to do on an install! I don't know who this guy was, and I understand your reasoning for not naming him, but he needs to be avoided by anyone looking for an install!

Omg i fixed it! So I took it under a microscope again and I was examining the other side of all the pads and I noticed on the pad that has the white wire going to it which goes to the switch since I soldered it up exactly the same way as shameems video there was the tiniest amount of solder just barely going really close to the other pad next to it so I didn't have any desoldering stuff handy so I took a wire and stripped it so it was just the strands and I formed a tiny little Loop which I placed right around the solder joint and then I heated that up and when it was melty and i pulled straight off the board and it took off all the solder bubble and I looked again there was no solder going over to the other had any more so then I turned it on it stayed on. Yayyyyyy

So since I rebuilt everything and rewired everything I have the soundboard towards the end of the battery holder a little above the speaker and what I'm noticing now is that all kinds of clashes and swings are happening without me even touching it so I think because it's closer to the speaker that's causing a bit of a rumble it is affecting it as opposed to when it was at the opposite end it probably wasn't getting those vibrations. So maybe put in the soundboard where everyone usually puts it isn't such a good idea

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There's a double-sided foam pad under both the speaker and the soundboard and still it was making too many vibrations I might just move the sound board up a little

So I want to show you the problem I had with my solder joint in one of the pictures the third pad from the left where the white wire is attached to has a big solder bubble and you can see on the right side it looks like there's some stuff creeping over to the next pad

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You're probably wondering why is they're solder even on the bottom it's because originally I had the wire sticking through the top down the hole and they were all soldered from the bottom

It can be easy to bridge a pad if the wiring isn't tight or you have a rogue strand. Keep your leads short, 1/16 -1/8 of an inch in length and tin them before wiring to "capture" and strands that might be end up flaying out.

That solder looks pretty messy, to me it doesn't look like it's not getting hot enough when you apply the iron, should be a nice smooth flow. That can be caused by a number of things, most commonis a dirty or oxidized tip, or not having the iron hot enough. Somewhere between about 400-430 degrees C is a good sweet spot depending on the types of tips you are using. if you don't have a brass tip cleaner for your iron, get one. They are MUCH better than a wet sponge and will help significantly with keeping the iron tip clean and working properly.

There appears to be a lot of flux overflow too

DK44 wrote:
DFXInovations is the installer(s) name, they are on Etsy. I shared that video in a handful of the FB groups and it got heated in the The Vault. Someone associated with DFX came in and started lying and making all kinds of claims and that got shut down FAST - the owner of the saber had chat logs, receipts, etc that he posted, Alan Johnson got on it (the person from DFX attacked Vaders Vault). Virtually all the "big names" in the smith/installer community had something to say. Was very epic and worthy of a popcorn meme.

Ok i got some stuff to get my stuff together

My new install