TOPIC: My custom 7W Reborn laser!

Hello folks!
I'm so happy I can finally make this thread. I've been working on this build for weeks.
It was definitely a very difficult one, and required a lot of problem solving.
You can read more about the build process here.


The laser uses as a host an ASP version of the Reborn hilt from SaberForge. I love the host! It is absolutely beautiful, though there's still a small error that I need to correct. Something got into the threads between the emitter and switch section and I'll have to eventually fix it.



We're using a 7W 450nm NUBM44 diode, set to 5A, in this build, which to my knowledge is the most powerful visible laser diode available to the public.
This build uses a 3-element lens. I'll be adding a beam expander later.



This laser is actually powered by two 26650 batteries. Having such large batteries - and two of them - may seem like overkill to you folks at SaberForge, but it is necessary in order to increase the battery life. With a single 18650, I'd have to draw about 15A in order to properly power it - and I'd only get 8 minutes of runtime before having to charge it again.



The beam of this laser is just insanely bright. It's even brighter than my 1.4W 525nm laser (NDG7475 diode.) It's also brighter, I think, than any LED lightsaber available.



No photoshop there - just 7W of pure laser light, directed into a polycarbonate blade. It's incredible!

It's also extremely good at burning things - as close as we can get to a real, working lightsaber.
I'll post some burning videos soon, and then this laser will be used for something very, very special.

Most impressive! I must ask, how long did that polycarbonate blade last?

Thanks Eddlyss!
Actually, the blade was not damaged, because (1) I had defocused the beam and (2) the blade was white. If the blade were the wrong color (like a red day blade) and I had set the focus to infinity, the blade tip would have been incinerated.

Starmute wrote:
Interesting. So the heat isn't burning through the material at lower focus. Does it still cut/is it still hot?

Now this is something special! Can't wait to see those burning videos. Impressive.

Greysider wrote: Thanks! I suppose I can't wait either.
Eddlyss64 wrote: The laser light itself does not produce any heat, other than the waste heat from the module. What produces heat is when it is absorbed by something, and white/translucent materials like a saber blade tend to pass or reflect light rather than absorbing it. If you left it on too long the blade might get hot, but not enough to melt it or anything.

When defocused, it is not wise to put your hand in front of the beam, but not especially dangerous. You would definitely feel your hand heating up, but you would have time to move it out of the way. Whereas when it is focused properly, you would be painfully burned before you could react and move your hand out of the way. If you kept it there for more than 1-2 seconds it would char your skin.

Starmute wrote:
Coooooooool...

this is so wicked!

Thanks. I was hoping I would get this kind of reaction.

Looking forward to seeing the video you mentioned. The laser in the standard blade does look amazingly bright. Great wonk on this project.

Another picture and a quick video of this laser vs. a balloon. Both were taken just before dawn today.

A laser Saber. I didn't know that could be a thing. Love the creativity here. So are you limited to certain colors, or is any color an option?

Awesome! What kind of range does that project at? You see stuff on the news all the time about people aiming these high powered lasers up into the skies that allegedly momentarily blind pilots of light aircraft. I want one. With Elite IDs relatively similar, what's the procedure? I order an Initiate and send it to you for retrofitting, what's the turnaround? Great build. Now lets advance a few more levels from the balloon and see some more videos of destruction!

HotRod wrote: Thank you.
Many colors are technically possible. If you look at my profile (Sta) on LaserPointerForums you'll see I have about 30 different laser wavelengths across the spectrum. However at this kind of power/brightness there are only a few economical colors: 445nm 6W (NUBM06), 450nm 7W (NUBM44), 470nm 5W (NUBM07E) and 520nm 1.4W (NDG7475). Other colors would typically be of insufficient power, or just be absurdly expensive.OvrcAHst wrote: Thanks Ovrc!
This laser uses a rather divergent diode; with a 3-element lens, I would expect the divergence to be around 3 mRad. Typical green laser pointers, like the ones used against airplanes, are closer to 1-1.5 mRad. Nevertheless, it has fairly good range, and with the 3.3x beam expander I will be receiving soon, the divergence can be improved until it is better than those pointers. This also has the side effect of making it look wider and thus more like a lightsaber blade.
With regard to me building you one of these, I can definitely do it! But I would prefer you to purchase ASP parts rather than an Initiate hilt. This is because (1) ASP parts arrive faster and (2) the initiate hilts have the threads glued.

There are also a few criteria that make the build much easier, for example, the switch section and pommel should be silver. This is because I solder directly to the case material, which is made much more difficult when the case is anodized.

I will have the cost for you in a couple of hours. It will change depending on what diode/color you want. Let me know!

Starmute wrote:
DAMN......

I think you just discovered a whole new lightsaber niche market. And OvrcAHst, when he's done, can you send me a sapling of one of your money trees? I feel like that would be a good thing to have.

Okay Ovrc.
There are a few different choices for which setup you want, I'll lay them out for you.

Diodes:
NUBM44 (7W 450nm): This is what I used. Very powerful diode but high divergence. 450nm wavelength - basically true blue. ~6.5W output through a 3-element lens at 5A, you'll get slightly different power depending on which lens (discussed later). This is a closed can diode, which means that it is not highly susceptible to dust. Still, avoid dust when taking the lens off!!
$219 with a standard 3-element lens.

NUBM06 (6W 445nm): Another very powerful diode, not quite as powerful as the NUBM44. However, the NUBM06 has slightly better divergence than the NUBM44. Typically the NUBM06 has 3/4 the divergence of the NUBM44. It's a 445nm diode, which means it's just slightly more indigo than the NUBM44. This is an open can diode, which means you SHOULD NOT take off the lens. Doing so may expose the diode to dust, which can damage or destroy it. Outputs ~5.5W through a 3-element lens.
$195 with a standard 3-element lens.

NUBM07E (5W 470nm): Not as powerful as the 44 or 06 but I really think the color is beautiful. Basically 470nm is halfway between blue and cyan. It also has better divergence than both the NUBM44 and the NUBM06. However, like the NUBM06, it's an open can diode, which means you should avoid exposing it to dust (or removing the lens.) Should output 4.5W through a 3-element lens.
$233 with a standard 3-element lens.

Lenses:
3-element: Basically, improves divergence at the cost of power. You'll lose between half a watt and one watt, but it will massively improve the divergence (basically cuts it in half.)
G7: Has the same divergence as 3-element, but puts more power through, you gain back about half of the power lost. If you want this it's an extra $20. I recommend this, it is an excellent lens.
G2: Puts the most power through at the cost of divergence. Divergence is close to double that of a 3-element, but you gain back the .5W-1W that was lost in the lens. If you want this it's an extra $30.

I will also charge $65 for handling/labor costs and $20 for shipping. I'll include some safety goggles (YOU MUST USE THEM WHEN BURNING ANYTHING UP CLOSE!)
These diodes are somewhat pricey but there isn't much I can do about it.

Please let me know, send me your ASP design and I'll tell you if it's okay. There are a few criteria that are best met.

OvrcAHst wrote:



Sorry, couldn't resist. Hoenstly, you still caught me off guard with the Dr Evil bit. #nevergetsold

Seriously, if you do this, pics are a must!

Thank you for your expertise, Starmute, this is freaking fascinating.

Jas-Ot wrote: See, the trick is.. to take whatever is your local currency, layer it onto a scanner and colour print multiple copies.

Starmute wrote: That's a lot to take in and digest. What the Hell Mate, giving me some homework!?
Sooo... circa $750USD. See, a foreseeable problem is it will likely become ordinance disposal by Border Customs before I'd even get a chance to lay hands onto it. How about I follow with interest first with this project of yours and also follow the updates that will come surrounding it before determining feasibility? I do thank you with compiling the information. It may just be a case of the wants but never haves.

HotRod wrote:

OvrcAHst wrote: Which country do you live in?
I'm not sure where you're getting the $750 figure.
You can't use more than one of the diodes - it's just (for example) $219 for NUBM44 + $20 for G7 lens + $65 for labor + $20 for shipping. That would be $324 plus whatever your ASP cost is. So a little more reasonable.
My own build's raw cost - that is, just the cost of the parts used to make it - was around $400, less than a hero saber.

Starmute wrote: Australia. My error, (and with allowing the greater for the ASP Parts from a loaded build.. ) but I took the average of the 3 diodes@$215 + ASP+ lens + labour + shipping + currency conversion + import tax + duty, as rough guesstimates, the 750 was still being generous. Unless there is eligibility for circumstances with exemption (e.g. licenced handler), I'm actually convinced that a high powered laser will not see a favourable reception by AFP.