TOPIC: Removing activation switches

Hey guys!

My acolyte warrior is coming in about 2 weeks and im planing on upgrading it myself for full sound, 12+ LED, and blade flicker, I wanted to know how i would go about removing the already glued in buttons that are installed on the hilt, since there is no way to reach them from the inside of the hilt.

Thanks,
Jack

Anyone have any ideas?

Hi Jack,
It really depends on how it's installed.
If it's hotglue, then you'll probably need a heat gun (guys, is it ok to use a heatgun over a lightsaber hilt?) Make the glue warm then peel it off.

If it's secured by the nut underneath (some are) then you'll need a tool for removing it. I'm sorry but I don't know what kind of tool that is.

Hey JackDonn, from the pages read within the Forum I haven't found a direct link to reference the technique to assist you with your query. Typically the technique suggested by other Members to loosen the adhesion where glue is used is by gradual waving of a constant heat source like a hair-dryer. This is then followed by gently easing the 'part' to first signs of no resistance. This method however has mostly been used on the threaded parts consistent to fore-grips and emitters though so I cannot say with certainty if the principle would be equally as effective for the switch.

Since you are intending on upgrading the sound immediately upon delivery, is it an option to submit a production request to Customer Service, requesting that glue not be used to secure the switch? This would be of great advantage to you as the only attachment of the switch would be the internal locking nut hence enabling you to perform what you have to and then apply the glue yourself upon completion.

If I have success with finding a direct reference I shall update it here.

EDIT:
@JackDonn, these are the references I found. They may be identical to what your search has resulted, it may not, however based on the limited information your query has stemmed from it should be useful.
1. Within the Forum
2. Outside the Forum
3. Continuation to Point 2.

While I'm here in an EDIT, @Gaelis and wrote: Depending on the Hilt relative to SF Tier Type, the shortest distance from Switch(es) to opening would ordinarily be from Emitter end. It will also depend on Switch type used for the install. Needle nose Pliers will do the trick however in addition to (again depending on distance) a pencil with an eraser on the end works very effectively. MacGyver style would be to use a screw driver with a covered tip or to cut a rubber glove fingertip and wrap screw driver end. There may be a specific tool available but one that has remained elusive to me and unidentified.

OvrcAHst wrote:
Hey OvrcAHst, is there a specific tool for gripping/ turning the internal locking nut, or is it just a case of needle-nose pliers?

Gaelis wrote:
Usually just pliers or your finger does the trick.
JackDonn wrote:
What soundboard are you using?

Thanks everyone for your help!

In regards to OvrcAHst, I will try to contact saber forge but i am certain they are about to start building it this week, and i do own a heat gun and long pliers so thanks for the advice! (didn't know they use glue)

And Jaden, I will be installing a Nano Biscotte V3 and a saber forge 12+ deep blue led unit

I will be following Shameem Moshrefzadeh's video for installing new electronics

JackDonn wrote:
Obligatory warning that NBv3 has a 6W limit on the main channel and 4.5W limit on the FoC channel, so you'll need to replace the LED resistors to bring down the power on a 12W+.

EDIT: Aaaand Soundboard breakdown written up:
https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/saber-electronics-diy/10644-diy-sound-board-breakdown#48976

yeah i already new i was going to need resistors

JackDonn, Further to my previous Post, you may be interested in reaching out to Aidzer0 specific to his Review Thread for his Guardian. Granted it's an Elite Hilt versus your Apprentice, consistent to each other as Warrior Tiers his 'hands-on' experience with recent removal may be invaluable to you.

JackDonn wrote:
Good to hear. Wouldn't want you to get all your parts in, get excited to start building and find out it won't work. You probably could have used a tri-cree or rebel LED with royal blue dies (which are what are used to make SF's deep blue), but this way you're getting the rechargable battery, charger, and correctly sized heatsink for the LED already.

Make sure to post pics when you're done!

Thanks again everyone for the help