TOPIC: Kylo Ren Scratchbuild

Thanks guys. Had a blast yesterday. Only issue - I found out it's possible for a lightsaber blade to be *too* bright - those five Cree Red washed out most of the photos...




As for the pointed tips, process was basically:

1) Remove the mirror (makes the tip light a bit better, at the expense of blade brightness - not an issue with 5" crossguards, but also introduces light focusing at the point on a bullet tip)

2) Bore out the inside (makes the tip light up brighter than the blade on the crossguards. Forgot to test this stage on the main. Still focusing light.)



3) Cover the base of the tip with a semi-reflective film (One layer diffuses the light enough to eliminate point focusing, and helps bounce some light back into the blade, though not as effectively as a full mirror. No idea what this stuff is, I've just got a bit lying around. I've heard some folks mention "mylar", but I can't find any semi-reflective on amazon)

Semi reflective film. Have you considered automotive window tint, of the mirror type variety?

I have to admit, when this thread started, I thought, this will be neat, but how could it live up to a production made piece. Well, sir, you have made me write those words down a piece of paper, wad it up and throw it in a hat, and then eat the hat, paper, words and all! This is simply breathtaking! Amazing work! Wow, I am in awe.

Just found this picture someone else took, and it might be one of my favorites:

Amazing picture, how many hours total did it take you to build from start to finish? Curious what your next project is. You sir have an amazing talent and gift.

You are a saber-smith that we could learn many things from! Well done!

Kouri wrote:

AWESOME! Simply Awesome!

Have another~

Oh WOW. That is some seriously impressive sabersmithery (what? That's a word..)
Kouri, you really are very talented. I bet you're delighted with the end result.
Congratulations

Kouri wrote:
I think I'm a little scared.....

Mind if I ask either where your got your cloak or what type of material it is? Sorry if this has been asked before.

A new "ultimate" collectors Star Wars line launched recently, and I have to say your hilt looks just as good as the $1,250 replica they're selling:

https://collectibles.starwars.com

Jaden Korr wrote:
I second that. Wow, and $1250 is a whopper of a price tag.

I bet yours would take a beating better and hold up longer as well as well.

On top of that, the S&H for it is $200.

I'd probably charge triple-digits on shipping if I had to pack my props in custom crates...

As for the outfit, I nabbed my soft parts from XCoser. I got the old V2 with stiff shoulders, so I wound up unzipping that under-tunic half-way for better range of motion. With the mid coat and woven overcoat on, it's not *too* noticeable, but I'll be modifying the under-tunic for next go-around. Also stitched two of their scarves together since the original was too short. They've recently released a v3 with better under-tunic and longer scarf though - just be sure to request it, since they're still sending out old v2s at random.

http://www.xcoser.com/kylo-ren-costume-updated-version-deluxe-adult-star-wars-hooded-robe-costume-with-gloves-belt-the-force-awakens-cosplay.html

As for saber durability~ I dunno. I'd originally designed the hilt so that the main blade would be duel-worthy. I'd bored out the cross coupler so the main pipe was one solid piece from emitter to pommel. However, to make room for the battery holder, there's a 90-degree cut right below the switch section that could turn into a fracture with one wrong hit if I were to hold the hilt by the handle. On the other end, the pommel bits are glued onto the base pipe, and could go with a bad hit. This one's really just meant as a display piece.

Buuuut so long as I keep it gripped at the switch section, I duel with it plenty. I'll try and get a video next con. I know where the weaknesses are, so I know how to wield it safely - but I'd never let anyone else handle the hilt. I lost my first PVC hilt when I let a couple buddies duke it out - hilt took one hit in its thinnest spot and split in two. I've designed my budget hilts better after that.

what kind of LED unit did you use....3W, 6W, 12W?

I don't mind comparing wattage when we're just comparing the current lineup of SaberForge LEDs - but in between LED brands, it's a pretty useless comparison.

I mean, even within SF, the new XQ-E 12W+ are brighter than the previous XB-D 12W. Then there are some 3W Luxeon Rebel LEDs that are really bright, as well as some no-name 3W LEDs that are comparatively dim. Heck, I've heard talk of some 9-10W LEDs outshining the SF 12W+ - likely because of the larger die size and more efficient lenses.

So ignoring wattage, exact LED setup is a Tri-Cree XP-E2 Red for the main blade, along with a Single Cree XP-E2 Red on each crossguard. Narrow Spot lenses on each. You're free to look up tech specs and compare the numbers yourself.

Holy hell man.

I don't think I've ever seen as gorgeous of a hilt done in PVC.... You sir take the cake.

May your knowledge and skill trickle down to the rest of us!

Kouri,

Quick question on your paint. I'm going to start work on the scratch build for my son, and was thinking of a very similar paint scheme, black with bronze tones. What paints did you use to achieve the look on the Ren saber? I love the look.

Forgive me for not going into nitty-gritty details, but basic process is

Flat Black base coat.

Dark gray drybrushing for texture (two passes, first one very dark, second still dark - but less so)

Silver-metallic drybrushing for worn edges (two more passes - darker metal first, brighter silver second)

Custom-mix copper/gold paint drybrushing for tarnish (More copper on the first pass, more gold for a brass-color on the second pass)

Here's the album I took in case I ever found the time to write up a tutorial:

http://imgur.com/a/zo6rN

Thanks Kouri,

I know from back in the day of doing miniatures and models that a dirty bronze was one of the biggest pains in the butt to get to look right. I never could find a good paint that worked on its own. I would use a gold, brass, silver paint mix with the slightest touch of grimy black which worked well but was always a pain to get the mix right.