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TOPIC: Another DIY Set of Questions

Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 4 days ago #61093

  • HotRod
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Sorry to drive you guys crazy with DIY questions, but I thought I'd check with the experts before I make a Home Depot run. :) I've searched the forum and did not find what I was looking for.

I've got an Initiate Redeemer I'm working on. The thin neck portion that attaches / screws into the grenade section is loose and rattles (all 3 of my ASP thin necks do this).

Should I use Loctite Threadlocker or plumber's thread seal tape to secure the thin neck to the grenade section? If Loctite, is there a certain color / type I should look for? I have also used a 2 step adhesive agent before in automotive applications, but I'm thinking that may be too permanent for this application.

Thanks in advance, guys. I am hoping to share my experience with my first build with an initiate hilt, so I will try to share what I have learned.


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
Last Edit: 3 months 4 days ago by HotRod.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 4 days ago #61094

  • NeBosa
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go with locktite.

Purple for small thread, low strength.
Blue for medium strength, removable.
Red for high strength, permanent.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 4 days ago #61095

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NeBosa wrote:
go with locktite.

Purple for small thread, low strength.
Blue for medium strength, removable.
Red for high strength, permanent.

Sounds like Blue may be the way to go since it could get back into the hilt for repairs or to change the LED if need be. Thanks! :)


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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 1 day ago #61372

  • Jaden Korr
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NeBosa wrote:
go with locktite.

Purple for small thread, low strength.
Blue for medium strength, removable.
Red for high strength, permanent.

Are the colors referring to the cap? The bottle I picked up has a blue label and package but has a red cap.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 1 day ago #61384

  • BoostinIX
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Loctite should say what color strength it is.

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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 1 day ago #61443

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Thanks, All. I've picked up blue. I'll be trying it as I put my Redeemer together.


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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 20 hours ago #61533

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BoostinIX wrote:
Loctite should say what color strength it is.


Hmm. Mine doesn't look like that at all; it's Locktite brand, but blue that says "super glue gel." Good thing I havn't used it yet!
2005 MR Vader
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Another DIY Set of Questions 3 months 20 hours ago #61535

  • Snakeeyz99
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Yeah, the bottles I see most often are like these:



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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62853

  • Madame X-Wing
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Hi, HotRod;

I have the same problem I need to fix--wobbly emitter neck. I have a bottle of Loctite with a blue cap. The label reads"all purpose Go2 glue." Is this what you used? Would you recommend this method? I am concerned about needing to unscrew this section later if I use this method.

Thanks for your help.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62866

  • agdev
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Same here with mine.

Will use red on mine.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62872

  • Brax
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agdev wrote:
Same here with mine.

Will use red on mine.

That is the permanent one. :S
Imagine what you will know tomorrow....
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62873

  • Madame X-Wing
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What do we know about this issue of the thin-neck emitter sections (e.g. redeemer) being "wobbly" when screwed into the other section (the "grenade" section)? Is this standard or is this only occurring with some of the thin-neck parts? Is it possible to machine these so that they do not wobble?
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62882

  • HotRod
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My initiate hilt Redeemer and ASP Thin-Neck emitters have all been loose. I have the Blue LocTite but I have not applied it yet since I'm waiting on my Medium Blue LED. I did use some plumbers seal tape and that does a great job of taking care of the wobble, but it's not strong enough to prevent me from unscrewing the neck from the grenade section. I plan on using thread lock it once I've got the LED I want in place.

Don't be confused all, LocTite makes thread locker and glue. Their ultra-control gel is awesome, but it's glue. It's been years since I've played with thread locker but it runs more easily and takes longer to dry in my limited experience.


- RGBA+ Monarch, FW Epoch, Juggernaut, Exhalted
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62893

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Oh I know red is permanent :P

I made a tool yesterday to screw/unscrew the LEDs from the inner neck to make it easier to swap once inside.

The only downside is danger of damaging the neck during dueling. Red will be a pain to remove, however, some heat can do it. Although you will inadvertently add "weathering/damage" to your saber XD

I think they keep them loose so its easier to screw in the LED by passing the neck through.

You MAY be able to plumber's tape it on the way out but it would be difficult.

They should really be bottoming out so screwing it would be the only requirement and a set screw for the LED. There's absolutely no need to have them fully pass through and loose.
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Another DIY Set of Questions 2 months 2 weeks ago #62958

  • agdev
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Have both red and blue testing on some aluminum and brass nuts/bolts. Letting them sit in solvents I use to loosen loctite.

Blue should be good enough the more I think about it.

I use blue for all of my suspension components on the whip. Including bolt on 3-point lower relocation brackets (not welded).

478 ft-lbs of torque on slicks and they won't budge. I'm sure blue will be good for dueling.

I'll report back on the solvents. Will give it a week after cleaning to see if any discoloration or damage has been done removing the loctite. Will probably destroy powder coating but that is always easy to DIY.

Edit: Blue loctite on the saber broke loose from just swinging it around. Wow. Sat a dead 24 hours to cure, too.

Time to clean the threads and use red.

You can still screw the LED in with a pair of needle-nose if needed. Just stick in 2 of the holes underside and screw.
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Last Edit: 2 months 2 weeks ago by agdev.
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