Eddlyss64 wrote:
Will the parts I remove of weathering still have a fairly nice glean to them after sanding? Maybe with some old-fashioned woodworking tricks of steadily increasing the grit from say 100 to 180-200?
I'm actually recalling Wood/Metal Shop classes from back in High School too. Little fuzzy since it's more than 20years ago and to fill in the blanks I Google methods on YT, not just specific to Sabers and Hilts but applications in general (like automotive) and apply to the aluminium Hilt body.
Each to their own with the starting grit used but yes, gradually increasing the grit will ensure a smoother surface with less coarseness. I always finish with fine/super fine steel wool too. As a tip: because of the fine fibres, either work in a cut-out box (kinda like how supermarkets angle cut cartons for multi-unit display on shelves) and avoid direct wind contact. Goggles too.
Fine metal fibres in your eye will have you naturally rubbing said eye and well, will look like you've got pinkeye afterwards.
I referenced it a bit when asked
here, by
Burns3558 when I stripped the neck of my Chosen (and later the same with Forsaken). For stubborn areas I have started with 80 grit (sore limbs from repetition) and alternated or from 320/360/400 up to 1000/1200 before steel wool. There will be a slight difference but I wouldn't describe it as glean or shine rather less dull. To polish up for shine (but not as mirror shine) I finish with products like Nevr-Dull and Mother's Mag Aluminium Polish (and yes, all hand applications).
Will be easier if you had powered tools and other enthusiasts will undoubtedly have improved methods but... it works for me.
EDIT: Oversight. Practice on a lesser
favourite Hilt or aluminium tube first. I used one of my US' as a guinea pig.