I'm not one to usually post all my installs but this one was challenging and it might help some people.
First I've gotta say, the latest hilts by SF have stepped up in quality IMO, I hesitated a while before buying an empty SF Count or an empty UW Lord. The size difference didn't bother me too much, UW's seemingly a bit too small, so I went in with an open mind even tho I always prefer 7/8" blade hilts. But a few details bothered me about UW's version, mainly this was to possibly become my "beater" hilt, so I went with SF's aluminum version, being cheaper and with less potential for lack of space or other surprises.
My preferred board is NEC's Spark 2 for installs, not being a fan of RGB sabers and having all the options of what I want in a saber with that board, no more or less. But it so happens that Naigon's updated board came along, so I decided to try out the new options on the S2-R3 and test out the RGB functionality also with Naigon's RGB Tri-cree. Not a very complicated build but problems came up and I had to redo the install 4 times, changing plans for the last.
The main issue with that hilt is the lower parts having to be screwed together. The recharge port and speaker having to be in the lower part, wires are bound to get twisted. My first plan was using 28ga wires and separate both halves with micro-Deans connectors. I also wanted the golden button to be the activation, but I found out quick that the screw holding it was too stripped to take it out. So I went with SF's solution and put the tactile switch in the red trigger, already kindly set up and drilled by SF. That means more wires and connectors for the lower part tho.
Turned out the restricted space with the connectors put to much strain on the wires and after a couple of assembly/disassembly, speaker wires broke and plugs got damaged. Tried that twice with the same results. I ditched the connectors for the third try, hence dropping having separate halves as an option, but had contact issues, my TCSS black wiring being a bad batch and turning out way too fragile.
Back to the drawing board, I decided to go with a more solid 26ga batch of wires, forgo the quick connects on the lower part, puting them on the led instead. Everything seems good now, waiting for some screws to complete everything.
(Check following post for final setup pics)
The challenge really is the parts being screwed together, SF should've gone like they did for the pommel for all parts but I get it's not that much of an issue with SF's Sabercore 3.0 board, since once assembled, you don't need further access to change fonts etc. They probably saved some time or costs on machining it that way.
Overall a fun challenge, Spark 2 S2-R3 is soooo good, I'll come back with finished pics soon.