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Tell us and our members who you are, what you like and why you became a member of this site.
We welcome all new members and hope to see you around a lot!
Tell us and our members who you are, what you like and why you became a member of this site.
We welcome all new members and hope to see you around a lot!
TOPIC: --Comprehensive FAQ-- PLEASE READ FIRST
--Comprehensive FAQ-- PLEASE READ FIRST 1 year 4 months ago #59556
***As originally posted by a previous forum Administrator**
This is a general FAQ with many questions not answered on the main site.
PLEASE read through this quickly before you post general questions; your question may already be answered here, and save you some time!
New members, please be aware that in order to curb the proliferation of SPAM accounts, newly registered members first 5 posts are marked as "Pending", awaiting moderator approval. So, if you don't see them appear immediately after posting, please don't repost repeatedly. As soon as a Moderator sees your post, they will approve it. We are around quite a bit, so it should not take long.
Quick Term Reference Guide
Weathered / V2 - Weathered refers to the "dark finish" sabers that Saber Forge offers. They have two options: Standard Dark Weathering (black anodizing, stripped and weathered), and Grey Weathering, which is only available on a select few hilts and only through the main site, meaning it is not offered in their Etsy shop.
Stunt - Stunt simply refers to a Warrior tier - like saber. A saber without sound.
SaberCore - The name Saber Forge has given their exclusive Champion-tier sabers' soundboards.
Fonts - The sound font on a saber's soundboard is commonly referred to as just a Font. IE; Sabercore has the ability to accommodate 3 fonts.
Finishes - Saber Forge offers many different hilt finishes on their sabers. Standard, weathered, Black, and Duel Tone are the most common types. Most people refer to these solely as the finish on the saber, unless being specific towards one type over the other. Typically, the four finishes mentioned above are done for the quoted price, whereas, the other customized finishes will be an additional cost.
Dual Tone - A type of finish on the saber, such as the Black and Silver dual-tone finishes on the Epoch, or Renegade sabers currently offered.
Infinity Edge V4 - the name of SF's signature series poly-carbonate blades. The V4 is the ONLY blade that SF is currently offering for purchase, and one is included in all purchases of a hilt warrior tier and up.
ASP - Adaptive Saber Parts, Saber Forge's modular hilt system to create and design your own saber. Note that ASP is NOT compatible with other brands of modular hilt systems, such as MHS (Modular Hilt System) from TCSS (The Custom Saber Shop). The web site for the ASP configuration tool HERE
Hilt (Pommel, Emitter, Body, Switches, Etc) - The saber hilt has several sections, which combined form the Hilt itself. The emitter houses the blade, the switch section houses the recharge port/AV switch to turn the saber on/off, Body offers the bulk of the hilt, and the pommel is the cap/end piece that keeps the internals IN the saber.
Initiate / Apprentice - because these two terms are similar, they get interchanged a lot, but mean ENTIRELY different things, and it can become very confusing as to what you intend if you accidentally misuse the terms. Initiate is an EMPTY hilt, from any level of saber (Apprentice, Elite, Crystal). Apprentice are the entry-level sabers Saber Forge offers, which currently consist of the Acolyte, Consular, Disciple, and Arbiter.
Frequently Asked Questions!
Q - What should my first saber be?
A - Simply put, your first saber should always be the saber that jumps off the page at you. There are a hundred, or even a thousand, factors that go into choosing a saber, and asking someone else "which one should I get?" is inevitably a question of opinion. You will get three different answers from three different people with such a general question. Try browsing through the apprentice sabers first; they're a little less expensive and a little more simple in design. If none of them truly jump out to you, then try going through the Elite models until you find a saber that just cries out to be owned. If you find more than one that does... well. Welcome to the saber collecting addiction forum group.
Q - How do I redeem my Saber Forge gift certificate?
A - If you still have a paper gift certificate from the old site, you need to e-mail a picture of the certificate, and the e-mail address used in conjunction with your Saber Forge main site account BEFORE YOU PLACE YOUR ORDER This is so your account can be "pre-loaded" for the discount prior to order. Please allow sufficient time for Customer Service to acknowledge that the transaction has been completed before ordering.
If you have purchased an electronic gift certificate from the new site, you will receive an e-mail with a discount code to be used at check-out.
Q - What color is the best?
A - Much like the previous question, this is entirely a matter of opinion. Certain colors do vary in lumens* but they are all beautiful and bright. Pick the one that either A) appeals to you directly or appeals to the character for which the saber is for, in a cosplay or the like. Of course, there are the typical distinctions, red, blood orange, purple are more on the Darkside, blues and greens and yellow on the light... it's all, honestly, a matter of what you like the best.
Q - What is Energy Vibration?
A - Energy Vibration is a feature that involves the addition of a small rumble motor (similar to those found in game console controllers) in the hilt. When the saber is activated, the rumble motor is also activated, giving the feel of the controlled energy utilized by a "real" light saber. It has a negligible effect on battery life, and adds yet another touch of realism to your saber.
Q - What is the lead time for my Saber?
A - -- IMPORTANT PRE-NOTE-- It is very, VERY important to note the "estimated" time frame for ALL sabers. When situations and circumstances increase beyond the control and expectation of SF, they must make adjustments, and this can result in higher than expected wait times in some situations. ALWAYS REMEMBER: The wait time quoted to you is an estimate, NOT a guarantee. The current lead time can be found here on the main site. This lead time is generally accurate, and updated when it increases or decreases, so make sure you check it a couple of times throughout your wait time, to see if there have been any increases or drops in the wait time. For Etsy, their wait time is listed at:
Parts such as LEDs, Blade Plugs, and Kill Keys are typically
Ready to ship in 1-2 weeks.
These are also accurate, and will update periodically as well, so again make sure you check. For Etsy, the wait times are listed on the item description under the "Shipping & Policies" Tab.
Q - What is the shipping process?
A - As many notice, their first saber order can be a little confusing when it comes to shipping. To be clear and as simple as possible, I will break this answer into two segments.
(1) Ordering from the Website, Saberforge.com: Typically, as soon as your order is placed, you will receive an order notification e-mail. The order enters the queue the next business day (all orders from the previous 24 hours are printed each morning), then the order jumps into our queue and into production if we have the parts. If parts are not readily available, it remains in the queue until the appropriate parts arrive. Once it is built, it goes to shipping, where it is packed. At this point, you should receive your shipping notice e-mail with tracking number. It is now ready for shipping, and awaiting USPS to pick it up. It can take 1 - 3 business days for USPS to pick-up packages ready for shipment, and once it is actually picked-up, the tracking number will update.
(2) Ordering from Etsy: The Etsy shipping process is largely the same as the main site. The main difference is that Etsy sabers require less customization, and listing typically represent sabers already assembled, except for those few optional components. So, they typically have a slightly shorter build cycle.
Q - I have a problem with X!
A - As I'm sure I speak for most of us... we're sorry you have whatever issue it is you're having, however! The forum is not a good place to post warranty inquiries or problems that you've had with your order issues, etc. You need to contact SF directly about these, so that they can handle your issue. Thanks! (Just a side note, it is included in the forum rules as well that these inquiries need to be sent to SF directly!)
Q - What is included with my purchase?
A - Most of the time the descriptions are fairly accurate, but can be somewhat confusing if you're new to the saber collecting scene and are not entirely sure just what everything is. This being said, I will break down each tier, and what they come with, in easy-to-understand terms.
Initiate - Empty. No electronics, no LED, no blade. Just the machined hilt. You can request that the pieces not be glued together, to allow for easier disassembly and easier installation of electronics into these hilts. Purchase if: you only want a hilt to sit on your shelf and do nothing with, or want a hilt to do your own install on. These do include your blade plug, and retention screws (LED and blade).
Warrior - Basic stunt saber. Comes with a 12W LED, and a removable/rechargable 18650 battery and a charger for said battery. You will need to remove the battery through the bottom of the hilt to recharge it. There is a choice to incorporate in-hilt recharge for a little extra cost. Also comes with a blade, your choice of 26, 32, or 37in Infinity Edge v4 blade, covertech wheel is installed on the saber (covertech belt clip does come as a separate piece), and a blade plug. Apprentice and Elite sabers have two different models of blade plugs, as the Elite model blade plug cannot fit in an Apprentice Acolyte or Disciple, due to the lip on the plug and the slanted emitter on the saber.
Champion - Saber with sound. The soundboard used in Champion sabers is the SaberCore 3.0. This board offers features like 3 sound fonts (which can be changed with other SC3 compatible fonts), Flash on Clash, Flash on Blaster Block, 5 blade effects. The instructional video for the board can be found here (SC3 Video). The saber will come pre-loaded with three fonts of your choice (selectable on the order menu), and there are others available from the main website. There is also a configuration utility application that is used to configure the options on the soundboard, that runs on Microsoft Windows (no other Operating System has been tested). The Champions have in-hilt recharge, and come with the cable necessary for charging, the battery pre-installed in the saber, a blade plug, covertech wheel installed on the saber (belt clip system separate) and your choice of a 26, 32, or 37in Infinity Edge v4 blade. Champion sabers also include a lit AV switch. By default this will be the color of the LED.
Hero - SF's saber with the most options. These feature a soundboard with 6 customizable sound fonts, which can be changed on the SD card included on every board, just inside the bottom of the hilt. There is both an on-board menu for some options, and a menu on the SD card to customize and set up your saber's settings to your preferred state. The standard setup for a Hero is the RGBA (Red-Green-Blue-Amber), which offers several colors at 3W, mixing for 6W, up to a 12W with all of the LED die lit. The higher tier board also offers other features, such as color pulse and flash on clash, depending on your LED choice. Color pulse will be included on any LED, as it just varies the intensity of the LED brightness, and can be customized on the SD card. The flash feature is available on the RGBA, and can also be customized on the SD card settings. These have in-hilt recharge, and come with the charger necessary, the battery pre-installed in the saber, a blade plug, covertech wheel installed on the saber (belt clip system separate) and your choice of a 26, 32, or 37in Infinity Edge v4 blade. Hero sabers also feature a dual tactile switch, used to power the saber on/off, activate effects, and cycle through sound fonts.
Q - I want a saber with sound, but I do not always want to hear the sound... is there a way to toggle the sound off?
A - Yes! On the champion sabers, connecting to the configuration application, and turning the sound slider down to "0" will silence the sound. On the Hero sabers, you just need to configure one of your 6 Fonts to be silent on the SD card configuration.
Q - What is a blade plug?
A - A blade plug is a small section of blade material (lengths vary depending on the socket depth of the saber ordered) topped by machined, or laser etched metal or plastic. The functional purpose is to protect the LED lens from dust. However, it also adds some aesthetic value to the emitter, giving it the appearance of what a real saber would look like when not powered on.
Q - What is the main difference between an Apprentice and an Elite saber? Why are the crystal ones more expensive?
A - The main difference between the apprentice and elite lines is the number of pieces it takes to assemble them. The elite sabers are a combination of pieces; an emitter, a switch section, grip, and pommel. In some cases these pieces can be swapped out with other saber parts. An apprentice saber, however, is just two pieces: a solid machined body and a pommel. This reduces the cost to make the saber, and therefore they can offer it at a lower price. This is why apprentice sabers are such good entry sabers into the hobby! They show you what a saber CAN do before investing a lot more money in a fancier model. The crystal sabers are more expensive because they contain custom machined "crystal chamber" sections within the saber. It costs more for SF to make a crystal saber, so the price is higher, but they're also much prettier display pieces.
Q - What are Shoto Sabers?
A - Shoto sabers are shorter versions of some of the Apprentice models (typically topping out at under 9 inches), that are ideally suited for a one-handed grip. Those that fancy a small saber, to be used as a one-handed dueler, or to be used in a dual-wield style will find these sabers perfect for that! They look just like their Apprentice counterparts, sporting all the same design features...just smaller.
Q - You mentioned some pieces can be swapped out...
Q - Can SaberForge do X?
Q - What are some details on the Custom Shop?
A - Probably the most common question is: what is the wait time for the custom shop? And the answer to that is: It varies. Depending upon the current workload that the customs shop has, it could be as short as a week or two, or as long as a typical saber order. It just really varies on what they have going on, what it is you're requesting to be done, how time-consuming the work you want done will be, and on several other factors. There is no wait time currently set in stone. Upon contacting them, they will most likely update you with an estimated time frame. Keep in mind, the time frame is just an estimate, not a guarantee.
The second cost is: cost. How much does it cost? This answer will again vary upon what you're having done. Their current rate for work $80 / hour of work done on the saber. I've been advised by the head of the customs shop himself this means that modified ASP and SF sabers are where you're going to get the most bang for your buck. They can do more, faster on these hilts. Anything beyond that, will just depend on the time it takes to build, design, create, etc...
The last common question: How many powdercoating colors are there? The real answer? A LOT. There are over 20 base colors, which can be combined in certain cases for other colors... meaning the limit is pretty high up there. They have a lot of customization available at their fingertips.
Q - How can I request a special color on my saber?
A - First, I would advise you to contact SF directly before making your purchase, and making sure that they will be able to accommodate your request for your saber. If they are, then all you need do is write the request in the Order Comments section, whether on Etsy or the main site. This being said, it is common knowledge to those that have been around SF for a time but not so much to newcomers that there are certain requests that they can and will handle that you can always put in the comments field. If you want your covertech wheel to be a specific finish... put it in the comments! AV switches on a champion tier saber come default the same color as the LED in the blade, but if you would like it to be a different color, put it in the comments! Same with the blade plug finish. If you really want an all-silver blade plug for your weathered saber, put it in the comments! SF is very good about handling all of these requests as best they can. AV switches silver or black? Put it in the comments!
Q - What blade length is better?
A - Which one do you like best? This is, once again, a bit of a personal taste question. Factors that should impact your decision: how tall are you? Do you dual wield, or single? Is this for a staff, or single? What are you familiar with using? Ask yourself these questions to narrow down your answer. Shorter people, for example, are probably going to find that the 37in blade is just a little long, and they have issues with the blade hitting the ground. Personally speaking, I'm 6'1" and I find the 32in blade to have a perfect reach and balance. When dual wielding, however, you may want to try even shorter blades, dropping to the 26in. You'll have more control, faster strikes, and be able to recover and defend against someone with a longer blade more easily.
Q - What size are the retention screws and what allen key do I need?
A - The retention screws are all 8-32 thread screws, which require a 5/64" Allen key.
Q - When is SaberForge going to have a sale?
A - Usually when there's a sale, someone will post about it pretty quickly. However, they do not use this forum as a primary means to announce their sales. That information is generally communicated via Facebook. Find their facebook page here.
Q - When is X design being released?
A - At one time, Saber Forge put out renders of upcoming releases on a regular basis. Due to some design disputes with other saber companies, that practice came to an end some time ago. However, any information about upcoming designs are posted by the Moderators as soon as it is cleared for public consumption by Phil.
Q - You guys are amazing! But where can I talk to a SF employee?
Q - How long does it take SF to respond to a message?
A - Keep in mind, despite their success and growth, they still are a small business, and experiencing the common growing pains associated with their latest growth surge. It may take some time for them to respond, but rest assured, they WILL get back to you. We do not ignore any messages, so unless it's been over a week and you haven't got a response, then please have a little patience, you will receive a response. If it's been a week without a reply, it is possible we didn't get your email for whatever reason. In this situation, make sure that our response is not being intercepted by the SPAM filter on your preferred e-mail client. If that is not the case, try sending us another. Bear in mind that e-mails go in to a queue, and are acted upon in the order received, and each e-mail received from you sends it to the bottom of the queue. So, sending multiple e-mails can contribute to a delayed response. On rare occasion, we have seen situations where certain e-mail providers don't send, or receive e-mails to Saber Forge consistently, which can be one possible reason for not hearing back from CS in a reasonable time frame. If you suspect this could be an issue, try sending from one of the main e-mail domains, such as G-Mail, or Yahoo. Some users have found that they were able to communicate more consistently once they switched e-mail originators, so it is something you can do to troubleshoot the communication process, and if it works, many misunderstandings and unspoken assumptions are avoided.
Also, remember, they strive to treat all of their customers with respect and professionalism, they do ask that you do the same in return. They do not appreciate threats, hostility, or profanity. If your email contains these things, you will be asked not to do that, if it persists they will ignore your emails. They are not obligated to be subject to abuse.
Q - Wait, SF has an Etsy shop with a shorter lead time? Why isn't there a direct link on the front page to this?
A - Not much can be done for the short term about this, but the link is here: Saber Forge Etsy Store
Q - Can I buy an Initiate saber and upgrade it later on my own?
A - Short answer: Yes. Long answer: Yes, but - it requires a certain set of skills to install a saber, and without those, you may quickly realize you're in over your head, and be opting to send it back to SF for an upgrade to the tier of your choice instead later. This will cost more, in the long run, to do it this way. If you're wanting a way to buy a saber slowly without one big major purchase, I would not advise going this way, but rather look into the ASP system and buying the hilt parts and pieces to a time instead.
Q - What is a "shelf-queen"?
A - Most of SF's sabers are duel-ready, and a lot (not all, there's exceptions to every rule... ever) use their sabers for just that; to duel. So, a shelf-queen is what most people refer to a saber that you don't duel with, and sits solely on the shelf for display. There are several reasons one could give a saber that label, if they just didn't want to duel with it but liked how the saber looks, they might keep it on display. A lot of people also buy the canon-inspired designs, such as the Prodigal Son or Redeemer, to put them on display as well. It's all what you want, and what your preference is for your saber.
Q - Are thin-neck sabers duel ready?
A - Short answer: Yes, absolutely they are. This is what SF specializes in, duel-ready sabers.
Long answer: Yes, they are. As SF strives (and delivers) on duel-ready, excellent sabers, the thin-neck sabers are no exception to this rule. Every thin neck saber is duel-ready, and if, by some chance, you have a mishap, they have a full warranty in place to cover any problems that may arise from dueling with your saber. Thin neck sabers also have a special "thin-neck blade"... you will need thin-neck blades for your thin-neck sabers, as regular blades will not fit into a thin-neck emitter properly. The thin-neck blades have no glue around the film to keep the diffusing film within the blade in place, as the film needs to be cut higher in the blade so the blade can fit into the very tight and secure emitter. The tight fit is done intentionally, to add security to the blade, as it does not have as deep a socket on it as other hilt styles.
Q - I heard there are different blade sizes, and what exactly is a thin-neck blade?
A - There are indeed a few different blade sizes on the market, from different types of manufacturers. SF, and the majority of the market, however, all utilize 1in diameter blades. This means that most major brands of sabers use the same size blades, and you can use a V4 blade on their hilts without any issues.
As for thin-neck blades, as said before, it's actually a very simple distinction between thin-neck and regular blades. There is no size difference, just a slight difference in the length of the film within the blade itself. The tight-grip emitter on a thin-neck hilt cannot fit a "regular" blade because their film comes to the bottom of the inside of the hilt and is held inside with a bit of glue. The thin-neck blades have the film cut an inch or so shorter, and are not held inside by the glue, as the glue would show externally on the hilt and detract from the appearance of the saber. So, same size, same blade, just a difference in how the film inside is done.
A How-To for Common Questions on the Forum
How to embed Images
Guide - Embedding images is one of the most commonly seen issues on the forum. People just aren't sure how it's done. So, here's a step-by-step guide to assist you in learning how to properly attach, upload, and embed your images to share with others.
Step 1 - Get your picture, and make sure it's not raw camera file. If it's just been taken directly from a phone or digital camera, the file size may be larger than what you would actually expect. You can use default programs such as Paint to resize the image, and scale it down to a size the forum can handle for uploads. Currently, that is roughly 700Kb.
Step 2 - When you open your reply screen, click on "Add file" below the text entry box.
Step 3 - Navigate to, then select your image, and hit Open.
Step 4 - Place your cursor in the Text Entry field, type your message, and when you get to the area in which you want the picture to show up (whether in the middle of the entry or towards the bottom of the page, click on the "Insert" button with your cursor in the area you want.
This will insert a piece of code that will embed the image within your post, so it will be easy to see for everyone.
Step 5 - Submit your reply. If it times out, and does not upload your image, your file size is probably still too large. Try resizing it down some more in Paint, or another editor program. Keep in mind the forum is rather picky with file sizes. The smaller, the easier to upload, but you will sacrifice some in image quality. External host sites, such as Photobucket, may be better/advised if you're submitting review photos of a new saber, or want a detailed, large shot of an issue you're trying to get advice on. Simply use their image link to embed the image directly into your post, if you go that route.
How to embed Links
Guide - Embedding links to look like parts and pieces of your regularly scheduled sentences, such as like this is actually really simple.
Step 1 - Get your link! For the sake of this, we're just going to use "http://saberforge.com/".
Step 2 - Above your text entry field in your reply box, there are a plethora of boxes, options, and choices. These are all simple-click-insert coding options for the forum. Click on the "Link" box.
Step 3 - This brings up a couple boxes we put our information into. The first box, you will copy/paste your link into. The second, put the word that you want to be hyperlinked into.
Step 4 - Insert your link! Click on insert with your cursor in the area you want the link to be inserted, and it should come up looking like:
And now, you know how to insert clever-looking links, that are easy to navigate to, and look clean!
How to embed Youtube Videos
Guide - Ever seen someone link a youtube video, and wish you didn't have to copy/paste the link to open a new window, just to see the video they're talking about? Well, there's a very easy way to embed a Youtube video directly into the body of your post, and I'm going to show you how!
Step 1 - Find the YouTube video you wish to post. Copy the URL. Once back in the forum, open a new topic, or add a new entry to an existing one. Then click on the "Video" button, illustrated in the image below:
Step 2 - Click on the drop-down box for "Provider", and choose "YouTube". Then, paste the URL for the video into the "URL" box. Be sure that you don't duplicate the "HTTP://" at the front of the URL you paste there, or it won't work.
Step 3 - Then click the "Insert Video" button, and the URL, along with the http code to insert it should appear in the post section. If you wish to add any text along with the video, you may do so above, or below the text for the video insert.
The result should look something like this:
And now you know how to do Links, Videos, and Image attachments, all in easy-to-view and see formats. Thanks for reading through, guys, and happy posting!
*lumens is a true measure of brightness, not wattage.
** Ran into max alotted uploads for the post, had to outsource and link in images.
Imagine what you will know tomorrow....
Last Edit: 2 weeks 22 hours ago by Brax.
The topic has been locked.
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