Dremel space wizard over here.
Love how that all fits together.
I've been doing my own additions with brass (and copper), I'll post some pics later. (much simpler than this haha)
Eddlyss64 wrote:
By this line of thought, the more sanding and use of steel wool, the less 'residual buildup' is left and the shinier the rest of the hilt is left, right?
Did you use a clear coat finish after the fact? I assume so.
I'm sure Orvc will chime in with his own thoughts, but...
Yes, the more you sand it the more of the anodizing you're gonna take off of it. It's hard to get in the grooves with hand sanding, so it will naturally get that "build up" style look no matter how shiny you do the rest of the hilt. Metal files or a sanding drum/disc on a dremel is best for getting into those spots, if desired.
Or if you want to entirely remove the anodizing, the easiest way is to submerge the saber into commercial grade degreaser (Easy Off!, Greased Lightning, etc.. get the gallon bottle not the spray can) and scrub it with something to agitate it (toothbrush works well); don't leave it in too long or it will begin to oxidize the metal. Though if you're planing to weather it afterwards that can be a good base; such as if you want to take the "perfect" black off of the Dual Tone finish and hit the saber with Aluminum Black instead.
I personally don't like my weathered sabers to be too "shiny" on the non-weathered areas. I usually do a kind of matte brushed/worn look... since it's a tool that's been handled but (obviously) not very cared for. Typically I stop at 00 (fine) steel wool or even just a scotchbrite pad; 0000 (super fine) steel wool is good for blending the weathering though. From an RP standpoint, if you're gonna polish your saber... might as well clean all of the gunk off of it too lol.
I am not a fan of clear coating, and iirc Orvc isn't either. It leaves a kind of fake "candy glaze" look to it that I just can't stand. While fingerprints are the bane of a polished saber, a wipe-down with a polishing/microfiber cloth is easy enough before putting it back on the shelf.
Even with sabers weathered with Aluminum Black (which will wear off from handling) I dislike clear coating. For that I use a light coating of the Gun Stock Wax from the same company (Birchwood Casey) to "seal" the weathering if it's on areas that will see frequent handling (main grip, etc). After about 24hrs the wax isn't very "waxy" anymore, though it is still a bit "grippier" than bare aluminum. Which is nice for dueling actually. By doing this I'll wear down the wax from use instead of the weathering, and just put another coating on as needed.