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TOPIC: DIY Help
DIY Help 1 year 9 months ago #47330
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Vyk wrote:
Kouri, is it possible to use a Nano Biscotte to control a power transistor, the same way that you do with a Hasbro board? If so, would that solve the problem of driving a 12W LED off of a NB?
That's sort of what the PEx hack is. The NBv2 already has a 2.5A transistor on-board for the main LED channel. I've not studied the NBv3 board design, but I imagine the main channel still runs on the same transistor. Trouble is, you need 4A to run a 12W LED. Well it turns out the Power Extender board has another 2.5A transistor on it. The idea behind the PEx hack is to double up on the transistor to safely run a 4A quad-LED. Either the PEx board was wired up to the NB transistor, or the PEx transistor was removed from the daughterboard and soldered directly on top of the NB transistor. Erv confirmed this is an option for 4-5A LEDs, but warns that heat dissipation can become an issue. Also, it should be noted that while a part from a PEx board was used, this is not at all the same as integrating PEx, which is why NBv3 doesn't magically support 12W LEDs now. As far as I can tell, the FoC channel uses a separate 1.5A transistor separate from the Main LED channel. --- All that said... I suppose it would be possible to replace or bypass the little NB transistor with the 6A TIP42C we usually use on Economy boards. I don't think I'd ever personally bother, since Spark2 is only $10-15 more and usually in stock, but if you feel like hacking your board... |
DIY Help 1 year 9 months ago #47421
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Kouri wrote:
The NBv2 already has a 2.5A transistor on-board for the main LED channel. I've not studied the NBv3 board design, but I imagine the main channel still runs on the same transistor. Trouble is, you need 4A to run a 12W LED. Based on the specs, both those suppositions seem right. Whatever the details, I think it's clear that you're not running a 12W LED at full power from a NB. (At least, not for long! Also, it should be noted that while a part from a PEx board was used, this is not at all the same as integrating PEx, which is why NBv3 doesn't magically support 12W LEDs now. As far as I can tell, the FoC channel uses a separate 1.5A transistor separate from the Main LED channel.  )
All that said... I suppose it would be possible to replace or bypass the little NB transistor with the 6A TIP42C we usually use on Economy boards. I don't think I'd ever personally bother, since Spark2 is only $10-15 more and usually in stock, but if you feel like hacking your board...
Well, the scenario I envisioned was putting a NB in place of a Hasbro board. If you already have the TIP42C wired up, I was wondering if you could just leave it there and run the NB's LED lead into the base the same way you do with a Hasbro board. In my case, it wouldn't be necessary--my saber only has a Seoul P4--but the idea of the OP trying out a Hasbro board and then swapping in a higher-end board is what made me wonder.
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Yoda of Borg am I! Assimilated will you be! Futile resistance is, hmm?
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DIY Help 1 year 4 months ago #65474
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Kouri, for the Red and amber LED, what resistor is required?
Kouri wrote:
As someone who's spent the last year studying saber construction and built several hilts from scratch:
None of this is going to be user-friendly - not the first time. This is going to appear quite complex the first time around. Parts will need to be secured and insulated to prevent shorting. Some sort of chassis ought to be purchased/constructed. As far as soundboards go, yes, I will recommend the Spark2 for a Saber Forge build. Electronically, it's designed to drop into a Saber Forge circuit right in between the battery, switch, and LED. You can keep the latching main switch that comes with your Warrior Chosen, but you'll need to pick up a second 12mm Momentary switch for Auxillary functions (your hilt will have a dummy switch covering the second switch hole). Here's a basic wiring diagram for putting all LED power on channel 1: And Here's a Purple 12W with Royal Blue on Channel 1 and Red on Channel 2: A note that Red and Amber LEDs need a resistor when hooked into the board, but Blue, Green, and White can be wired straight to the board with the board handling drive adjustment. I don't know the Inner Diamater of a Chosen hilt off-hand. As far as I can tell, SF IDs are somewhere between 1"-1.18". Apprentice hilts might have a smaller ID because of their smaller size. Can anyone verify? A 1" ID hilt will need a 20mm speaker. A 1.18" ID hilt can use a 28mm speaker. 1" blade stock or 3/4" Class200 PVC pipe can be used to construct a chassis to mount the board and speaker to. Darth Ryo also offers 3D-printed chassis here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/goth-customsabers?s=0 I personally started out with Economy boards I ripped out of $20 Hasbro sabers. I also destroyed the first two or three with mistaken wiring or improper mounting. The new Blade Builder boards are apparently 1" x 1" and would be a great learning tool before moving up to a $70-80 soundboard. |
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There must be both dark and light.
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