TOPIC: Questions on Retention Screws and Part Measurement

I first have a couple questions on the location of the blade retention screws for a couple emitters, the 07 and 08 ASP emitters. I see a couple holes in one of the struts of the 07 emitter, but they seem awfully high to be retention screws, and the fact there's 2 of them. And I don't see anywhere on the 08 emitter for retention screws.

Going off that, would it be possible and advisable to replace the retention screws with thumb screws? To add some depth and detail resembling an adjustment knob, as well as allowing easier blade changing?

Third, does anyone have the measurements of the width of the struts of the 07 emitter and the width of the mounting point of the axe blades of the juggernaut? I was thinking about drilling holes in 2 of the 07 struts to screw on juggernaut blades to two opposing struts (it seems the juggernaut blades each have 2 screws and could theoretically be easily mounted on non standard emitters). And then adding viper claws on the remaining 4 struts to give it a dual axe blade and 4 claw handguards. Would those modifications, assuming they're done correctly, theoretically work?

emitter #7 the upper hole is blade retention, and the lower hole LED retention.
emitter #8 its considered a thin neck, so the LED module threads into the bottom of the emitter. After it is threaded onto the adapter, which MUST be utilized with all thin necked emitters.
I have and many other have incorporated thumb screws for the same reason you mentioned.
In response to your third query. That doesn't seem impossible, but a few things to consider. One spar would have to be dedicated to your blade retention. With 2 blade sections and 4 claws, the blade retention screw would be covered. Also durability will be an issue. That much hardware mounted to emitter#7 would render it a Shelf Queen IMO. I'm sure others will give similar replies. Good luck and MTFBWY

Well I guess that could be the claw I break for battle damage. I'd have to drill another hole in the vipers anyway to keep them straight, so I could break one, use the new hole for the LED retention screw and keeping the claw straight, and the main claw screw gets its own hole drilled, and with the claw broken I should be able to get to the blade retention screw without trouble.

Yeah, the claws and extra hardware definitely means no dueling. Its workload will be some swings and twirls to show off sounds max.

And still not sure about the blade retention screw on 08. I assume the blade fits down the inner tube inside the crown/claws acting as a shroud. So is it down inside the shroud?

Thanks.

Maybe you should consider using the Sorcerer emitter. Channels already milled, which would provide alot more stability and rigidity for the claws and blades Then you could drill a row of holes in between each to give the look of emitter #7. As far as emitter #8 blade retention screw loacation, I really don't know.

That would be my second choice. I was looking at that first because of the claw channels. But I like the look of the 07 a bit more. And I'm not sure whether the juggernaut blades would be too long or wide for the channels, which would require more milling and I'm not sure I have the equipment to do that neatly. Drilling holes isn't as difficult as trying to mill a channel.

And I'm hoping the retention screw for 08 is on the outside. I'd like to use a thumb screw to give it at least one more adjustment knob, like to RP it's for blade length/strength. It would be a tad weird (and if it were real) dangerous to have to stick your hand in the emitter just to change the length/strength.

Heliolord wrote: I don't have emitter7 to comment.
Emitter8 has a single blade retention setscrew, 25mm down from the edge of the crown. There is a central flute that the blade slides over (much the same as Thin Neck Emitters for the extra stability) and has a socket depth of 38.62mm. The crown then acts like an emitter shroud over part of the blade.

Sure, why not. It just won't be completely level or parallel to the horizontal axis of the body since the crowned emitter tapers slightly inwards for the cone effect. But any thumbscrew with an 8-32 measurement should fit. Nope sorry. * The recessed grooves on Juggs = 9mm. I dare conclude that the recessed channels on emitter7 would be narrower. Theoretically yes, with heavy mods. In practice would require lots of modifying. The Juggs blades make the hilt top-heavy in it's default setup already and that's with the anchoring points down 93.8mm & 77mm respectively. Even if the recessed channel was successfully widened on either: emitter7, Sorcerer (6.60mm) or Venom (7.0mm), the potential anchoring points (down from blade holder edge) would be from 28mm tilting the balance dramatically.

* Drilling new holes and tapping threads agreed can be easily done but the widening of the grooves would be more challenging IMO.

=Ottomatix= wrote:

OvrcAHst wrote:
Okay, good. The builder didn't show where it was nor did any of the pictures on the site. And a 1.5" Plug 5 should fit nicely? It says plugs aren't compatible on the site, but I don't see why not. The depth seems fine for a 1.5" plug.
OvrcAHst wrote:
I figure it would look better than just an off color dot. And add some depth. Maybe smooth off the small amount of threading that would be exposed.
OvrcAHst wrote:
Actually, I meant positioning the juggernaut blades on the exterior beams, not the recessed portion, with the mounting screws at the base of the blade at the base of the beam. Though the recessed portions do look wider now that you mention it. It sure seems the recessed portions are wider than the blades based on the pictures, but I'm not sure about the outer beams or the recessed portions since I don't have one. I agree the juggernaut blades look much thicker than the channels on other emitters like the sorcerer or venom. Assuming the juggernaut blade is 9mm, I just need the width of the beams and the recessed channels of the 07 to see which, if any, could mount the blades.

I'm not particularly concerned with balance, it's not a dueling saber. And I suppose I could add a spear extension to move the balance point back some if it's ridiculously top heavy.

I based previous information on Forsaken Emitter which was presumed to have been created by SF using ASP Parts (like other Hilts released through Etsy) with a different Thin Neck piece.


Whilst there is a difference, I would conclude that the conical crowned Emitter design should still return the same positioning of the Blade retention setscrew however cannot accurately confirm.

Heliolord wrote: Technically the socket depth can accommodate a shortened Blade Plug. With the nature of the Plug though with how the plug face cap seats into the polycarb it won't sit flush inside the emitter and will result in side light bleed. This is based on the Forsaken Emitter where the central flute sits level with the crevassing inbetween the crowns. You'll note (per site image) above that emitter8's centre flute extends longer which would result in greater side light bleed. If it's primarily as a shelfie, how obvious the dot is visible I guess would depend on the alignment of the emitter ie. 180 degrees to the switches or same side as. My only concern would be bite strength if you were to shave some off since it's just a single small screw for securing the blade. An alternative could be to repeat the idea evenly spaced 120 degrees apart so you have 3 retention screws and sub them out with your intended idea of thumbscrews to complete the symmetrical look? Gotcha and Juggs blade = 9mm. That by measurement I can accurately confirm.
If you potentially mount the Juggs blades on the base of beam (left circle) it'd interfere with the threads though right? and if attempted to mount on the vertical beams (right circle) from the looks of it (other than the beams likely not equalling the 9mm width) they're slightly tapered rather than completely flat. It would make for an awesome aesthetic though.

OvrcAHst wrote:
Hopefully. I can't imagine where else it would go.

OvrcAHst wrote:
I figured. Sounds easy enough to fix. Paint the side of the plug to block light bleed above the crevasses (probably have to stop above the retention screw since it would damage the paint). And let the light bleed down below so it looks like there's more to the emitter below to explain the blade covering the plug end and shaft.

OvrcAHst wrote:

Well I'd like to do some dueling with it/just show it off, so just altering the angle so it's hidden seems less useful. The three thumb screws sounds like a good idea to keep it symmetrical. So you think that I'd probably need more retention screws if I were to use a thumb screw and smooth off some threads? Even though those threads probably wouldn't ever be used since I'd only shave off the ones that show when the retention screw is tightened for a plug/blade?

OvrcAHst wrote:

Yeah, I was thinking the right circle. The tapering could be solved with some sanding flat, I suppose. But if they're not wide enough for the 9mm blade, I doubt drilling a channel into them would work. Now that you mentioned the recessed channels, though, are you sure they don't look wide enough? Sure, the two blades would block most of the light ports in the 2 channels, but I suppose that's still workable.

Or I could eschew using the pre drilled holes on the juggernaut blades altogether and try using a couple flat brackets with one end drilled through the blade and the other drilled through the vertical beams. Keep with the whole hardly kept together theme.

Heliolord wrote: That's my conclusion but yeah without accuracy. Solution seems sound. Single Thumbscrew could work and be more than sufficient. What I meant about the screw not having enough bite was if you shaved the single setscrew if you weren't changing it to a thumb. If you do drill 2 additional holes for the symmetrical look, I reckon the other two could just be greeblies and just have a single functioning thumbscrew since the emitter flute and crown shroud will hold the blade for the purpose you'd be using it for.

Emerald Knight has 3 blade retentions. My Black Lotus effectively has 7. if blade socket depth is sufficient, the one retention screw (either setscrew or thumb) should be more than enough since it's not for duelling. The blade thickness = 9mm so be it a milled recessed channel or a footing area, it would need to be slightly greater than 9mm. idk? don't have that part to accurately measure. But lets say it was, if you mounted the Juggs blades into the channel, that entire row of holes will be covered and your only shinethrough would be the alternating rows where you planned on attaching Venom claws. Maybe. Would it be secure enough to counter the top heaviness?
Juggs blades weigh (each): 138grams and are secured by two socket head screws 25mm in from the thinner tapered end of the overall 195mm.