TOPIC: Adding sound to Warrior tier ASP

Hi, I'm fairly new to this and, I think I've a good idea of what I'm doing and have experience with electronics, but have a few questions.

I've got my ASP with Green 12W LED, battery and latching switch. I plan to upgrade to NBv3 with FoC and recharge port. The ASP switches already come with 2x 12mm holes in the switch section, so I assume I'd just have to:
- replace the latching switch with a momentary switch
- add the recharge port to the second 12mm hole
- replace the current LED module with a Tri Cree (G/G/W)
- add the soundboard and speaker.

My main question is, what do people usually do for the soundboard in SF hilts, in the aspect of, do you make a chassis, as I assume you don't just leave the NBv3 floating in the hilt? Also, where would I get the chassis or chassis parts? Correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I'm aware from the research I've done, TCSS chassis parts are too wide in diameter.

Also, speaker mounting in the ASP hilt. The ASP pommels are already ported (has holes for the sound), but not sure how to mount the speaker, and what speaker would you suggest?


I thank you in advance for your patience as this is my first saber and first upgrade.

This video should help answer your questions (it's fairly similar to how SF does their sound installs):



There aren't a while lot of chassis options for 1" inner diameter (ID) hilts (like SF's) due to little space there is to work with. TCSS does have some disks that will fit (under MHSv2, their 1" ID line of parts), but they can only fit either a NB or an 18650 battery pack, not both. You could perhaps modify the above video's technique to utilize the latter.

There are also some 3D printed parts by Darth Ryo on Shapeways, such as this TCSS bass speaker holder, that may work for you has well. He has a lot of designs for just about every kind of saber under the sun (including all in one chassises for the Gladus and Disciple).

One other thing; do you plan on using the same heatsink that came with your 12w LED, and just put your new tri-LED in it? The optics used for tri-LEDs are shorter than the ones used with SF's quad-LEDs, so you'll either have to glue the optic in place or add some filler in the heatsink (like Shameem does in the video).

I personally recommend just getting a 1" OD heatsink (like this one) and some thermal tape from TCSS for your new LED instead. The base on the TCSS one screws all the way into the holder, so the optic will be held in with tension, while the SF one only screws in as far as what's needed for their optic. Plus this way your 12w LED will still be usable for another application, or you could sell it over in the trading post section of the forum.

Thank you, Jaden! That was helpful! I've found a few parts there from Darth Ryo that could help me out!

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Jaden Korr wrote:
No, I'm getting another LED case made up with the Tri Cree and lens. I need it to be smaller anyway, as the space available for my LED in my hilt is only about 18mm or 0.7", and the ones I got from SF are much bigger than that. The one you linked to is probably about 0.1" too big, but I do already have one coming. Thank you though!

Here are couple of chassis recommendations. Both from Darth Ryo At Shapeways. Since ASPs inner Diameter are in the +/- 1.125" range (mine are at around 1.129"), these may work:

http://www.shapeways.com/product/766ZD7K43/all-in-1-igniter2-removable-battery-1-11-quot-od?optionId=56348384

or

http://www.shapeways.com/product/S74W7XDJS/all-in-1-i2-spark2-1-10-quot-od?optionId=59446619

Personally, I just ordered the first one for my ASPs since I have a bunch of the required battery holders.

Goth chassis are pretty awesome. TCSS discs work well too.


That said, my second attempt at Shameem's method worked out incredible, easiest install I've had to date. Almost like I knew what I was doing It's a viable option.

That second NEC all in one chassis is interesting. Having an internal recharge port would allow for two switches to be used and not require drilling a third hole, or for a one switch setup on a hilt that only had 1 hole drilled. Though I'm not sure you'd be able to also fit a kill key in there as well inside a SF hilt since its on the bottom instead of the end like his Graflex 2.0 chassises (where you can just turn the key instead of taking it out); you'd have to take advantage of the board's deep sleep mode.

Though personally, unless the hilt is like a Graflex where drilling an extra hole is undesirable, having an internal recharge port kind of defeats the purpose of not going with a removable battery to begin with.

Jaden Korr wrote:
Jaden if you look at his modular chassis parts he has one with the recharge port at the end so you just have to remove the pommel to access it.

Recharge/Speaker Combo

There is also a modular section that places the port lower to allow for one of his on/off kill switches.

Recharge Port

Kill Key On/Off

As easy as it is to remove the entire body of my ASP I've been considering this option so I can run 2 switches and not have the plastic recharge port showing. I would also make a adapter to mount it to the switch section so it would be like the Graflex chassis.