TOPIC: Choosing between sound boards for a basic saber

HI folks, new here. Currently in final planning/parts ordering stages of my first two sabers. First will be a fancy hilt for me, using a range of parts from various sources, incl an Igniter 2. The other (and probably the first to be built) will be a more basic saber for my 6 year old daughter. I've chosen the Saberforge Sentinel hilt, a tri-cree led, rechargeable battery etc. I want colour changing (makes it easier for a small child to be able to choose between good and bad guy depending on mood )
I'm currently weighing up between a very basic yet functional sound board - the plecterlabs Pico Crumble, and the more advanced (and more expensive) NEC Spark Colour 2.
Both offer what I need, but the difference in both price and capability seems pretty high. The main reason I'm still wavering is that I was unable to source the Pico for a long tome, and ended up just sucking it up and ordered the Spark Colour2 from Saberforge, which should arrive in my hands shortly. Of course, within 2 weeks of ordering, the Pico became available again. So now I'm trying to decide whether to just go ahead with the build using the more expensive board, or order a Pico Crumble and save the Spark for my next project.
As I see it:
Pico is easier to wire up, offers a limited but still sufficient choice of 6 blade colours, possibly more durable (?) and of course is half the price. The Spark Colour 2 is a more complicated board to wire up, but offers a vast array of colour choices and additional functions (lockup, blaster block, more swings etc)
I'm probably not overly concerned with multiple sound fonts as my daughter will be happy as long as it sounds like a lightsaber!
The other big factor that's causing me to waver towards the Pico, is that the Sentninel only comes with two switch holes. With a recharge port installed, that only leaves a single hole for a switch. Pico only needs a single momentary switch for full functionality, while the Spark colour 2 needs a second switch for all the extra functionality. I want a recharge port so my daughter doesn't have to disassemble the saber to charge, and I'm unsure whether it's possible to wire one into the pommel on the Sentinel? Otherwise I need to drill a third switch-hole.
But I'm not sure you can wire an illuminated switch to the Pico. (may be able to do something with an RGB switch and run off the main colour pad using resistors? Assuming I can find a 12mm RGB switch - only found 16mm so far)
What's the general consensus on the Pico Crumble? Is it possible to wire up a lighted switch? Does it make a good, functioning saber? How easy is the colour change (i think it uses a combination of button pushes to get through an audible menu?)
Any advice appreciated

Hi Starganderfish. Great post as I'm also looking for more info on the Pico (and boards in general as I'm in the same spot as you with my first build). My friend's three kids (two 7y/o and a 5 y/o) talk to me about building sabers for them since I got into the hobby and I have the same thoughts as you about the Pico. The youtube link below has a pretty nice review of the card and wonderful instructions on the color changing feature. I'd love to hear more reviews from other people in the forum that have Pico cards.

As for the illuminated AV switch, I'm not a fan of them. While they look cool, ideally, they'll be covered by your hand as you wield the saber. Also, the LED in the switch can slowly drain the battery over time. So on the chance someone forgets to put in the kill key, the battery will be drained while the saber is not in use. Knowing my friend's kids, I know this is a high possibility so if/when I build sabers for them they'll have a standard AV switch lol.

Personally, I wouldn't put a $115 sound board in a saber for a kid. Kids are rough, and beat the crap out of things.

I just built a saber for my son (4 1/2) as a Christmas present and I opted to go for a Sabercore 2.0 board because it presented all the features I wanted in the sturdiest and cheapest board I could get at the time.

the Pico would be a great board to start them off with. Enough cool features to keep a kid happy, but none of the extra bells and whistles that may be problematic in the hands of a child.

You could wire the LED on the switch directly to the common positive wire coming off the battery, and the Negative from the recharge port that goes back to the board. Throw a dyna-ohm resistor in there and you're all set. When you pull the kill key, the LED will light up.

Interesting. I wasn't really aware of the battery drain issue with LED switches. I know the developer claims the Pico has an excellent low power mode that means it should retain a charge for a VERY long time. I think you guy's are right and I'll probably go with a Pico. I looked at the sabercore but it can't do colour changing.
I like the idea of a light up switch that activates when the saber blade is activated, as it's another "bright shiny" for a kid to enjoy.
If I understand what Jas-Ot is saying, directly wiring like that would result in the switch being permanently illuminated whenever the kill key is out, whether or not the blade is lit? That would definitely cause a power drain when she forgets to re-insert the key.
From what I can tell, an RGB momentary switch comes with a seperate pin for each led, as well as the switch LED's, so in theory, with the right resistors, wiring the switch off the boards main-blade colour pins should result in the blade lighting up whenever the blade is lit, and it would (maybe?) colour mix to match the blade colour, at least roughly. That seems like kind of a cool idea. Unfortunately, as I understand it, Saberforge sabers use a 12mm switch hole, and I've only been able to find a 16mm RGB switch. All 12mm switches seem to be single colour. I've got some feelers out on Aliexpress and to a Czech guy who might be able to do this, but for now, it doesn't look feasible.
Unfortunately if I use a single colour LED, I can't really wire it up to work exactly as I want. Jas-Ot's idea will give me light whenever the kill key's out, while wiring it up to one of the main colour pins will power it most of the time, but won't cover me for all 6 colour options (ie: wire it up to the red pin and it will only light on red, purple, orange and FOC. Won't light for blue, green or aqua)
At this point I may just wire in a switch without LED, and, if I can track down a 12mm RGB at some point, I can go back and tweak. I'll probably buy a 16mm RGB and try it out with my own saber as a test, as that will have 16mm port's.
I'm also planning on a non-removable "twist" kill-key. Sourced them off shapeways. Just like a normal kill-key but it has a notch cut in the base. Rotate it 90 degrees and the power circuit opens. Rotate it back and the circuit closes. Otherwise my daughter would definitely lose the kill-key within half an hour.