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TOPIC: Arbiter chassis

Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #76926

  • kwlfca
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Hey I'm looking for a chassis option for an arbiter, I'm looking to have a removable battery (no RCP), 28mm bass speaker, and NBv4. What I have managed to find so far is one made by Jordan Moll, but I'd like to see if there are other options as well.

First build, also first post. If there is a search bar in the forum then my apologies, I couldn't find it
-Kyle
Last Edit: 1 month 1 week ago by kwlfca.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #76955

  • Khang
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The limiting feature you are asking for is the removable battery. With the inner dimensions of the Arbiter, you won't be able to easily fit in a keystone holder as well as the board and NBv4. A better option would be to use a battery with a JST connection so that you can readily remove the battery, but you would have to use a specific type of charger for that.

I designed Jordan's chassises, so I know just how tight it can get in there. I personally am a big fan of RCPs, either outside the hilt or on the chassis itself.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #76958

  • BoostinIX
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I just finished an Arbiter to sell, and it's super tight, stupid tight even. I trimmed one of Joran's RCP chassis to fit. The non-rcp chassis may fit better, but it'd be tight. The Goth 1.1x will be too long without modifications. I didn't try the board-mounted-to-batt sled method, but can't imagine there's much room for it.

It came with 2 switch holes right? I would give serious consideration to just living with the external RCP. As much cram-fu as you'll be doing (esp with a JST batt), something will break in time.

Also- Welcome! Do you have the Arbiter already? Any other sabers? Least you've done some homework, so don't feel bad about asking questions.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #76961

  • KelbornX
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Hmm, yeah... the Apprentice/Shoto sabers are TIGHT. Most are around 4" of body space (if not less) before reaching that reducer ring in the switch area. (or w/e SF calls that bit)

Jas-Ot had a hard enough time getting an internal RCP Goth chassis into one of my Xiphos hilts; can't imagine trying that or removable battery in another Apprentice.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77003

  • BoostinIX
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I did a Renegade that had more space than the arbiter, it could fit the Goth 1.1x modular with a speaker and NB sled but no RCP; the Heretic I'm finishing was able to fit the Goth 1pc no problem so def better there. Arbiter was super duper short.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77021

  • kwlfca
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It came with the latching switch and a dummy switch cover. I'm still waiting on Jordan to get back to me in regards to length of the non rcp chassis, hopefully it will fit, length wise. I'm not looking to do a jst connector battery, I'm looking to be able to take the battery out to charge in my nitecore charger.

Another option is what you mentioned I suppose, but I'd have to get a new battery holder (not that that is a big deal), as I don't think the sound board will fit with the velcro around it that it came from (or will it?). With some of the plastic electronics shielding from TCSS it could work, but how would I secure the speaker?

And thanks, I got it from the recent SF grab bag run. First saber, other than the VV I ordered in may that I'm waiting on.
-Kyle
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77023

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Actually, looking at it now, I don't think there would even be enough width to strap the board to the charger
-Kyle
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77024

  • Khang
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That's what we're saying. For you to have a removable battery, you'd have to have a keystone holder. That alone with the board pretty much means you won't be able to use a chassis.

Realistically, the only way to do what you're asking for is to have the battery and board not stacked. That's just not gonna happen in the tiny body of an apprentice hilt.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77025

  • BoostinIX
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I wish I'd measured that Jordan chassis now, lol. Even his long one will work with some trimming. I could have probably gotten the Goth to fit with similar modifications. Why do you want removable battery? Deep Sleep, Kill Key, and a 3400 batt last a good long while.

The Keystone batt holders are def on the larger side. I had to cut one down for an Aeon I did. If it's a permanent install, can just do the battery soldered and some velcro with tube like Shameem did, or tweak a chassis to fit. FYI the chassis without RCP will be a snug fit, the NB is basically butted up to the chassis. With the Jordan RCP chassis, I mounted the PEX where the RCP would go and trimmed some off the front of his chassis.


I'll see if I can remember which hilt that went into and take a look to see if I still have that chassis installed somewhere.
Last Edit: 1 month 1 week ago by BoostinIX.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 week ago #77026

  • Khang
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BoostinIX wrote:
I wish I'd measured that Jordan chassis now, lol. Even his long one will work with some trimming. I could have probably gotten the Goth to fit with similar modifications. Why do you want removable battery? Deep Sleep, Kill Key, and a 3400 batt last a good long while.

The Keystone batt holders are def on the larger side. I had to cut one down for an Aeon I did. If it's a permanent install, can just do the battery soldered and some velcro with tube like Shameem did, or tweak a chassis to fit. FYI the chassis without RCP will be a snug fit, the NB is basically butted up to the chassis. With the Jordan RCP chassis, I mounted the PEX where the RCP would go and trimmed some off the front of his chassis.


I'll see if I can remember which hilt that went into and take a look to see if I still have that chassis installed somewhere.




Are you referring to this chassis? If so, I can tell you it's 80mm long.

The one with RCP is longer at 100mm. I could have probably made it 90mm or so, but I wanted it to look cool.
Last Edit: 1 month 1 week ago by Khang.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 6 days ago #77030

  • BoostinIX
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It's your best bet to fit.



80mm + 3mm for speaker lip, you'll be close so plan for some cram-fu on your install.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 3 days ago #77111

  • ADstewart
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Hello, thought I'd wade into this thread because I'm in the same position, bought a grab bag arbiter and reaaaaaly wish I'd got the sound too! Sadly the postage to the UK plus import charges meant that my arbiter cost nearly £230

I'm a bit lost with some of the abbreviations you guys are using, could you translate?

Is the general consensus that there aren't any chassis that would be suitable for the arbiter? I was kind of hoping for one like the picture to go with a NBv4.



I'm going to measure the exact internal dimensions when I get home from work
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 3 days ago #77112

  • BoostinIX
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NB/NBv4 : Nano Biscotti soundboard
PEX: Power Extender
RCP: Recharge Port
TCSS: The Custom Saber Shop


If it's 80mm or so in length, it should fit as the micrometer picture shows. 100mm is definitely too long. The Jordan Custom Saber Creations non-RCP chassis listed above will fit, barely. It's a tight squeeze (i.e. cram-fu). If you link to where that chassis is sold/printed we might be able to tell more. Just eyeballing it, it looks a little long but measurements will tell.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 2 days ago #77140

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I just grabbed that picture from google as an example, it appealed to the perfectionist in me!

I measured the internal space on my arbiter and found it to be 85mm long and 28mm diameter, the NBv4 is 28.5mm wide. I'm assuming any suitable chassis would have to be 'hemispherical' through the cross section for the board to fit (with a bit shaving!)
I've sent a question to someone selling on etsy to see if he can adapt a chassis design for the arbiter and make it just shy of 80mm long.

I've spent hours watching YouTube videos from TCSS and am getting closer to feeling like I know what to do!

One question has popped up, are the switches glued in? I've read that the dummy covers will pop out with a bit of drilling and wiggling but how do I get the latching switch out and how do I fix the momentary one in?
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 2 days ago #77154

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ADstewart wrote:
I just grabbed that picture from google as an example, it appealed to the perfectionist in me!

I measured the internal space on my arbiter and found it to be 85mm long and 28mm diameter, the NBv4 is 28.5mm wide. I'm assuming any suitable chassis would have to be 'hemispherical' through the cross section for the board to fit (with a bit shaving!)
I've sent a question to someone selling on etsy to see if he can adapt a chassis design for the arbiter and make it just shy of 80mm long.

I've spent hours watching YouTube videos from TCSS and am getting closer to feeling like I know what to do!

One question has popped up, are the switches glued in? I've read that the dummy covers will pop out with a bit of drilling and wiggling but how do I get the latching switch out and how do I fix the momentary one in?

NBv4 is 18.5mm wide and 28.5mm long. Board fits fine normally. You'll want to secure your switches. You can either use teflon tape and press fit them in or just glue them in place. I personally use a dab of hot glue as it's the quickest method for me.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 day ago #77188

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NBv4 is 18.5mm wide and 28.5mm long.

**facepalm**

Yeah, that makes a LOT more sense.

Not sure if kwlfca is still monitoring this post but I've found some chassis on shapeways that may work, i'm waiting confirmation:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/2RCLG5UW8/saberforge-disciple-ezchassis

https://www.shapeways.com/product/766ZD7K43/all-in-1-igniter2-removable-battery-1-11-quot-od

https://www.shapeways.com/product/34LD62RN6/gcm111-01-ig2-igniter-2-spark-2-18650-cell?optionId=55537907

The last one appears to be 70mm long which would fit if it's suitable.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 1 day ago #77195

  • BoostinIX
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Problems you're going to have with those:

First 2 are too long at 3.7". Additionally, 2 are meant for the NEC boards, so the hold-downs are in the wrong spot. You'd have to secure with glue.

The last one, besides being for NEC, is only 1 part of 2. Even with swapping it for the NB-specific chassis, you still need a speaker holder, and .5" plus the 2.8" plus .11 for speaker lip on the bass speaker, you're over length (Approx 86mm). (I tried this setup on my arbiter, no go.)
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 8 hours ago #77249

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Made a decision today and placed an order at TCSS!
I went for the acrylic chassis discs to fit the NBv4 soundboard and 18650 battery and plan to trim the aluminium tube and threaded rods to be as short as possible. I'll have to custom make some end plates since there aren't any that match up with the 1.15" acrylic discs and I'm anticipating a bit of sanding to even make these fit.
Decided against keeping the removable battery on the sled for reasons of space and have bought a recharge port and kill key too.
Not 100% sure how to fit the speaker but it might end up being hot glued to the end since the speaker mounts look too big anyway.
Hopefully it'll look something like this:




There'll be a bit of bodging but it seems the best way to fit everything in with space for wiring.
Thoughts?

Also, is it possible to solder wire directly to the battery I already have or do I need to buy one with wires pre-attached? I quite like my fingers and I'd like to keep them.........
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 7 hours ago #77250

  • Khang
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ADstewart wrote:
Made a decision today and placed an order at TCSS!
I went for the acrylic chassis discs to fit the NBv4 soundboard and 18650 battery and plan to trim the aluminium tube and threaded rods to be as short as possible. I'll have to custom make some end plates since there aren't any that match up with the 1.15" acrylic discs and I'm anticipating a bit of sanding to even make these fit.
Decided against keeping the removable battery on the sled for reasons of space and have bought a recharge port and kill key too.
Not 100% sure how to fit the speaker but it might end up being hot glued to the end since the speaker mounts look too big anyway.
Hopefully it'll look something like this:




There'll be a bit of bodging but it seems the best way to fit everything in with space for wiring.
Thoughts?

Also, is it possible to solder wire directly to the battery I already have or do I need to buy one with wires pre-attached? I quite like my fingers and I'd like to keep them.........

1.15" is pretty huge compared to the 1.11" that fit into SF hilts. You'll have to take off a lot of material to get that to fit. That's a lot of work. Why not just use a properly designed chassis from GOTH or other 3D designer?

As for the battery, yea, you can solder directly to the ends. I recommend slight sanding first to make it easier for the solder to grab on.
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Arbiter chassis 1 month 7 hours ago #77251

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If you're not using Khang's/JCSC or a modified Goth, you may be better off with this method:


(Yes, it's for the v3, but it's easy to adapt for 4)

TCSS typically fits for MHS and not SF. Will be some decent sanding there to get them to fit. Don't need an end-plate, you don't have that kind of room to work with. Speaker is another issue since their holders are designed for MHS. Above vid will solve that. It's still going to be a tight fit, but it's doable. Easier than the TCSS disc sanding.

Dont forget to test-fit however long it is. Also do your homework on how to add in a recharge port and all that...be a shame to fry the board first time out.
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