TOPIC: ASP warrior Redeemer w/o control box

Hi everyone. This is my first post - apart from the new member introduction post My first lightsaber arrived two monts ago. I went with an ASP build. I've liked the Redeemer since I saw it in the store. However, from the reviews (thanks a lot for these!!!) I learned that the control box gets in the way when spinning and wielding the saber with both hands. I wanted to do that, so when ASP was going public I decided to go that way. My order list was:

ASP . Redeemer Pommel . Standard
ASP . Redeemer Body . Standard
ASP . Prodigal Son Switch . Standard
ASP . Redeemer Emitter 3 . Standard
ASP . Led 12W+ . Light Blue
ASP . Apprentice Plug . Silver (I got the reactor blade plug instead)
ASP . Blade 32'' (Thin neck)

Here's what the saber looked like when it arrived:










The looks and feel of it were great, but there were some things I wanted to change.
First, of course, I wanted to remove the control box from the switch section. Secondly, the corners and edges of the grenade section's ribbed parts were a bit sharp. Not cutting sharp but they were not too comfortably to hold and wield either. This was easily remedied with a file. Also I wanted the grenade section in all black like the original redeemer, so I had it powder coated. The last thing to change was the covertech knob. I removed it and put a D-ring into the knurled part at the bottom. Like that the covertech doesn't get in the way. Also I like the original trilogy look of the d-ring better .

Here there are some pictures of the end result, I hope you like it:

Awesome! I prematurely referenced it as a hybrid Chosen in Members Intro's when in fact, it's more accurate to an awesome Exhalted. Great build and mod. Thanks for the share.

Thanks, OvrcAHst.

For everyone who plans on removing the control box from the Redeemer or PS switch sections, here there are my experiences with it. First, the pictures from the out of box section:





The box itself was just screwed to the hilt with one screw, but the nut that held the av switch in place seemed to be glued on. The only way to get it out was to destroy the switch.



Luckily my electronics set came with a spare prewired AV switch, but keep in mind that it might be necessary to get a new one. The screw that kept the control box in place is an 8/32 one. I initially covered the screwhole with a buttonhead screw, but later exchanged it with an blade retention screw type one :





As can be seen in the last picture, the switches aren't recessed. However, my experience so far is that they don't get in the way too much

Finally, some pictures from the trip to the "wild":

Therion wrote: I might need another coffee to understand this. So when ordering an empty Hilt with a separate (V1)PnP Kit, the Control Box comes default with an installed switch plus a second on the actual electronics Kit as well? So if I were to get a Switch Box Part i.e. PS/Redeemer and say a V2 PnP Kit, I just need the additional LED Module and not the momentary (going for sound) switch? Have you tried driller the existing holes with a larger bit to counter-sink/bevel the edge to seat the switches in more than current?

OvrcAHst wrote:
I ordered the lightsaber when ASP was in its last days on indiegogo, before the saberparts.com site went live, so unfortunately I can't speak for the actual products. On idiegogo there was just the warrior tier option which included the hole electronics pack. This might be the reason for the extra av switch, as on the saberparts.com page you definitely have to order the warrior electronics and the switch seperately. As for the switch section, with my parts, the latching switch was installed into the box and the circuit card was glued on top of the switch. In that configuration it would be incompatible with the V2 Champions kit that needs the circuit card to be moved to access and install the recharge port. So maybe the design was changed since my purchase, but it might be worth asking SFCS before ordering.



Good point, I didn't try it yet. This would result in a conical shape of the hole, right? At some point I might get a hero pnp kit and I suspect that the double tactile switch might need a little more contact area to be properly installed (glued in?). Do you have experience with that?

Therion wrote: Fair enuff. I missed the KS/IGG1 Train by the time I made it to the platform and boarded a different train when IGG2 arrived. I have no knowledge of the Tiers/Perks that were offered during the run. During the initial deliveries of the campaign, the switch box parts ranged from including the switch pre-fitted in said box to supplied separate to said box. Possibly, you were backer of the latter stages after initial (plausible) teething errors had time to be corrected. Remain unsure with the current shopsaberparts switch parts, specifically the box switches and whether the switch is pre-fit or not. Not in any hurry to get one yet.

Maybe its that time of the day again when caffeine-levels are low. If you've got two holes, one latching and the other faux-plugged, this continues up into the (if not removed) switch box. With loosening the glue to separate plate card from switch why would a V2 Champion PnP not be compatible if the now momentary and charge port still occupy the real estate of the two holes in your setup without the box?

Or do you mean if box is kept that the switch plate would have trouble registering presses to the momentary? I believe that would strongly depend on the drill bit size. But by my interpretation (and result possibly by accident) a conical hole would suggest that the smaller hole circumference tapers outwards to the larger holes circumference. When you drill a centred hole, the edges are straight and vertical and the second drilled holed would be squared and vertically edged above that right? kinda like an inverted Mayan pyramid versus an inverted Egyptian pyramid. Have experience with regluing popped-out momentary's and charge ports on pre-builts but not with a Hero PnP (that has dual tactiles). There aren't locking nuts on these and the edge that seats the switch/port is small (about 1mm). I have found that this holds it but obviously a wider lip will secure it better. The former scenario where the lip is small is easily shifted depending on Body shrouds (as they are anchored slightly by said switches) and the internal wire lengths with QCs as it creates a nudging effect against the switch and port underside that dislodges the seated glue.

Hi, it took me a while to get back to the forum, sorry!
OvrcAHst wrote:
It's exactly llike that. What I meant was that without removing the card it would not be compatible. Kind of "not compatible right out of the box".


I would have thoght that the edges were rather the inverted Egyptian style .

Thanks for sharing your experience. I already suspected what you said about the dual mini-tactiles, that's why there should be as much contact area between switch and hilt as possible.