Standard Crystal Reveal Ares 12Watt+ Red
Delivery of a recent Purchase when it was first previewed on Etsy, the design whilst configured by ASP Parts has appeal and marvel, however what actually sold me was the Crystal Chamber. Red is my flavour so there wasn’t any further debate necessary with selecting the colour. It represents the Darkside, one of two sides (okay with Grey maybe 3) and Red exudes malevolence whilst projecting sinister power and aggression. Restraint and conflict, Excellent.
It was relatively quick, consistent to the quick-ship priority exercised, but no USPS Toblerone (as expected and preferred) as I requested to forfeit inclusion of Blade and Charger (this time) so the package was a USPS small rectangular box. While the design elements behind this Hilt is for duelling, this will be a Shelf Queen and I don’t need an extra blade or charger (blade possibly, charger definitely not). The rectangular box (regardless of small or large when I don’t forfeit blades) returns more durability and receives less potential damage compared to the toblerone.
SF short packed the Stand (again, mutha….!! And again it is still listed on the packing slip) and after advising SFCS, I declined for it to be sent separately. Didn’t have it to begin with, don’t have it to finish with. Even-stevens. Why items can’t be cross-checked when packing is beyond my comprehension. Made my peace, moving on.
With the inclusion of Rebel Emitter, a part I have always secretly been fascinated with, the Hilt worked aesthetically and was rather pleasing. Granted I could have easily purchased this at shopsaberparts picking the same pieces with the option of different finishes, however a primary factor overriding my apprehension was the inclusion (as standard) of a recharge port. To some, an easy addition as a short DIY. To me, something reserved for the ‘too-hard’ basket as electronics have never been my thing. Any opportunity present to simply plug in a recharge jack rather than fiddling with the internals for sake of battery removal is an advantage in my book and when this Hilt is not in hand and lays amongst its new siblings, a Kill Key is just too convenient and will be the obvious choice.
What was surprising as I unravelled the Hilt from the Bubble Blanket bound in from International travel, was the accessory colour scheme. The Blade Plug, Kill Key and Covertech supplied were Brass and more surprising still, the Kill Key was the favoured (not just me but by many) aluminium top with knurled edges. This suggests to me that they are in fact still available. Why they aren’t made readily available either in addition to the low profile lazerforge one remains a mystery to me.
A consistent Chamber design assembled with 3 teethed support rods in T7075 Aluminium. A generous exposure of the Crystal goodness however a minor difference with the function, which I shall elaborate on later.
A multi-vented Pommel not simply influences but dictates generous resonance and loud output.
Some Specs and Measurements:
Quad Cree 12Watt+ Red| Champion Tier| Sabercore2.0 Crimson Font| Standard Finish| Silver Red-lit AV Switch| Brass Kill Key, Blade Plug and Covertech.
Hilt Length Closed to Emitter Tip: 370mm (14.5669”)
Hilt Length Closed to Emitter Base: 310mm (12.2047”)
Hilt Length Closed to Blade Holder edge: 348mm (13.7007”)
Hilt Length Open: add 32.95mm (1.2972”) to above for relative measurements
Blade Socket Depth: 58mm (2.2834”)
Emitter Diameter: 40.94mm (1.6118”)
Tsuba Diameter: 61.03mm (2.4028”)
Choke Diameter: 34.62mm (1.3630”)
Switch w/out Guard & Body: 37.93mm (1.4933”)
Switch including Guard Plate: 42.97mm (1.6917”)
Pommel Diameter: 47.80mm (1.8819”) tapering down to 27.90mm (1.0984”)
Weight: 621Grams (21.9051Ounces/1.3691Pounds)
The Crystal Function on this Hilt is… interesting. Not Spring-Loaded like CRs (Redeemer/PS/Exalted) and not for complete unscrew like CR Guardian. It’s like a Spring-less version of the CR Thin Necks. This system/function/operation IMO is flawed. From hand tightened closed, 765Degree lefty-turn for the initial release and 790Degree total for assisted open i.e. you have to have a pull. There is a small set screw centred to the two round accents which tightens against the LED Module when completely opened and tightens against the teethed support rods when hand tightened closed. Anything in between when trying to align the direction of the Emitter has the set screw bite the support rods. More thought needed to go into this method of application. Not a completely successful execution.
As far as standard finishes go there’s not much that can be commented on. Silver and Black with some complimenting Brass. The blade retention screw doubles as Emitter retention. After completely removing the Blade retention set screw the Emitter is more a two-piece glued together as one Shroud that with removal reveals the cored flute of the blade holder. Nothing special. Sharp edges that will require softening to all the accent recesses right down to the multi-vented Pommel where it is at its sharpest. The pineapple grip, thought to be smoothest actually isn’t. This is a two handed Hilt. As a dueller, (if paired with a 37”blade) the long hilt and combined blade definitely will gain an advantage. Coming up later, images shown are a 32” which is also my preferred length with Blades.
Elaborating on what I consider to be design flaws.
Using the switch guard plate as dead-centre vertically, 1st image above is threaded Emitter closed and hand-tightened. Locking with the set screw is an option but isn’t necessary. The orientation of the Emitter is sideways with the larger surface area of the shroud facing towards to right (or backwards during dual grip). This, I conclude to be the striking setting.
The 2nd image above is threaded Emitter slightly opened. The orientation of the Emitter Shroud is centred (topside) to the switches alignment. Locking by set screw is required here however creates a long term and durability problem. It also creates a gap as the threads are unscrewed and because every part is either glued or screwed, the use of O-Rings or Timing Shims is not an option.
The 3rd image above is threaded Emitter opening a bit more still from 2nd images position. The orientation of the Emitter Shroud is centred (underside) to the switches alignment. Locking by set screw, again, is required and the same problems of gap and internal secure-point are present.
When the Chamber is completely Open (fully extended), locking by set screw is optional as this is the concluded display position/setting. The tightened set screw actually fastens against the LED Modules Heatsink inside. When the Chamber is closed and if wanting to align the orientation of the Emitter Shroud dictated by your preference in handling, the set screw fastens against the teeth of the support rods. Unsure if the image above illustrates what I mean but circled are the chips/bites/indentations just from unscrewing from locked set screw closed position as it was sent to me. This little jaggered edge cannot be easily sanded or filed because of the teeth and because there is an interruption to the teeth, it creates a hindered, almost stuttered affect when opening the Chamber. An unwelcomed unstable effect.
My first impressions was that the Low Profile Guarded Switch Plate added a nice overall aesthetic to the design. After continued handling and experimenting, I have concluded that this becomes an obvious snag-point. If primary hand placement between the top of the guarded plate and Tsuba’s base is fixed, as is the secondary hand over the pineapple grip is fixed, no problem however (unless I’m just doing it wrong) your grip naturally loosens and hand transitions occur and both the Covertech and switch plate become a hindering identifier. Removing the Covertech is easy. The switch plate, notso much. I would have probably liked to see the Switch Part used absent of the guarded plate. It would further streamline the look of the Hilt and actually heighten the ergonomics of it as well.
The other observation is that the switch plate is the only piece on the entire hilt that kind of sticks out. In exterior lines for one and for two, it’s media blasted and anodised Silver, so the frosty-sherbety finish is back which kind of throws the overall finish since everywhere else is Silver aluminium or Black anodise.