TOPIC: V1 CR Redeemer SF|Story so far. Pt III

This one is a must have for me... Think I may wait until the new soundboard comes out so FOC is possible.

I'm a little confused as to what finish this is though, especially on an etsy order where they're prefabricated. Looks like the grenade section and body section are weathered, but the emitter isn't. I actually really like the way it looks with this combo.

Unleashediv wrote: Don't disagree with you here. It's such a pretty sight, a little colour-blur but pretty, when a series of Crystal Chambers and Non Crystal Shine-Throughs are lit up. It's like a typical suburban Street at night during Chritmas. There's nothing to shy away from with Light Blue. It's still an appealing Colour, for me though, it strongly depends on the Hilt and whether the Colour would work. It also depends on what Graflex you plan on building after i.e. Episode #. It may be subject for debate, but I've found and accepted that ANH=(if using SFs colour references) Light Blue, ESB=Light/Medium Blue (depends which definition remaster or not you watch ) and TFA=Deep Blue. While I've got a BBW in my ESB, I have a Rb/B/W in my OWK ROTS. Why I say Medium Blue Rocks, well.. I have another Thin Neck with that Colour too. Belmore hey? Wow, It's been probably close to a decade since I've been out that neck of Sydney. I used to work in Sales in Rockdale and apart from that found myself in Tempe on a couple of occasions sourcing stuff for my then car, with the now car, not so much.

LDM is on the dearer side especially when you go the higher-up Tiers that he offers. Even on the lower, entry-end with the CS3 Board, Build quality and workmanship is worth it. Marc is a great Guy to deal with too.

It is hard to fault Redeemer. I may be biased but believe it's a definite 'must-have' for your Collection.

Salacious B Crumb, FoC is cool, no doubt but isn't always necessary. That too was one of my thought patterns. Mate, you've been around here for as long as I have (longer I think), Sabercore3.0 is definitely exciting but with an undefined 'potential release' that's a long breath to hold.
Don't know if you remember, it was all the way back on your Redeemer Review when I first commented having Ordered this. I knew back then it was a must-have and that was based of the 2015 Version. It's the Standard Version. When I sat it next to my LDM when I got it, the Black Grenade is cool but side/side it looked a little flat. So I softened the Black parts a little with some 360Grit for aesthetics plus also to tell the two apart 'cos sometimes (LDM has kill key in Pommel) I look from the Hilt side straight on and miss the Pommel.

Hey dude,
I noticed you cut the blade plug a little. Is there any repocussions from cutting the plug to fit into a redeemer?

Unleashediv wrote: The only repercussion I recognised was if you started with a 1" before the cut, it's not gonna be 1" anymore after the cut.

I've never come across Claims, Warranties or otherwise, with Blade Plugs so none that I can foresee from SFs perspective either. I reduced two, a Lazerforge one [with the same 1" OD (1.0020"/25.47mm) Rowmark Cap as the polycarb] and an Elite one [with the 1.1" OD (1.0960"/27.84mm) Cap].

When it comes down to Mods for an awesome Thin Neck Plug, you need to check out NeBosa's Thread here. He essentially takes the end-plate cut from a Covertech, glues to a layer of diffusion film (or Tape by memory) and glues that into the ID of the polycarb. It ensures the closest and aesthetically effective fit. Am yet to try this myself.

All I did was reduce the length of the polycarb tube to as near as possible to fit the 0.75" Blade Socket Depth. The Plug themselves have an internal plug (tube=female) that enables the Cap (male) to be seated on top. The internal plug measures about 4.52mm and will butt-up against the Emitters centre flute (where the Mylar sticks from). I either guesstimated and free-sanded down to about 22mm or used a pipe cutter to score the line and hacksaw cut first and sanded smooth second to about the same 22mm. It's not the closest fit as it still allows light to bleed from the sides but it keeps foreign matter from entering the central flute.

OvrcAHst wrote:
Lol it was a bit of a silly question. But cheers, that thread is going to help

Thanks for beautiful photos and post! I had been trying to decide which thin-necked saber to get: Prodigal Son, Redeemer or Exhalted... and your post made "future possible to see.."

So I also ordered the Redeemer

Now to wait until it gets here!!!

aatyas wrote: Glad it helped edge you closer to making a decision. In case you missed it, I should point out that the Grenade Grip is Solid Black by default when ordering the V1 Finish (I sanded mine a little that resulted in the slightly worn affect). You can see the V2 Finish on the neighbouring Thread V2 CR Redeemer FFS and heck if you're feeling foolish, get yourself an Exalted and a Prodigal Son also in the neighbouring sections.

So my saber came today- and I have been grinning all day.

Only problem was that the diffusion film was sticking out and was bunched up on the bottom. It looked too long and I didnt want to shove it in and have the top part crimple. Remember someone on Youtube wrote that they also trimmed a bit. So did same- except that it got crushed when putting on the emitter. So trimmed more and it looked ok. But when I turned it on there are 2 white spots of light where I guess the film curled up inside or gaps.

I assume the wrap should be tight onto the shell of the blade and have a open gap for light. It seems that the end is not fully open but folded or crumpled.

Should I unscrew the top and then try to pull the film more from both sides to even them out?
?

aatyas wrote: Congratulations with receiving your very own.
I see this Post was duplicated and recreated as its own Thread in Open Topics and an answer has come forward already. The blade tip isn't just a matter of twisting lefty-loosey to remove and I'd normally recommend against it but your dilemma has been sorted.