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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43511

  • Andi-Jae EL
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I was just going through recent Saberforge YouTube videos this morning to pass the time and I just came across one of Shameem's latest. He does a complete install that takes just over an hour but very informative if you want to do order an empty hilt and put everything together yourself. Great step by step instructions. I've attached the video so if you have some time, take a look.


- Light em up

Last Edit: 3 months 3 weeks ago by Andi-Jae EL. Reason: needed to add link
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43517

  • Jaden Korr
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I was just watching this last night. In the description he lists all the stuff he used, including the recharge ports SF uses (which I've always liked), and in the comments he said he believes the new NBv3 can power a 12w quad LED (like SF's) without any problem, which was something I had been wondering since the v3 now has the PEx built in.

EDIT: Check out the info Kouri provided on the topic below.
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Last Edit: 3 months 2 weeks ago by Jaden Korr.
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43548

  • Andi-Jae EL
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I really enjoyed it. For someone who would be nervous trying to solder something, he makes it look pretty easy . I'm pretty handy when it comes to building things and putting them together but I've never soldered anything This would be a great ref. If I ever try doing it myself and actually makes me want to try it.
- Light em up

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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43558

  • RyanRising
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Jaden Korr wrote:
I was just watching this last night. In the description he lists all the stuff he used, including the recharge ports SF uses (which I've always liked), and in the comments he said he believes the new NBv3 can power a 12w quad LED (like SF's) without any problem, which was something I had been wondering since the v3 now has the PEx built in.

Oooooh.
I think I'm gonna try that after I get my first saber from here.
The above post may be subject to editing. A lot of editing.
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43783

  • MusicallyInspired
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Watched this the other day. Great watch. He said he'd try to film it without any cuts and he did it. Nice to see the entire uncut process.
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43789

  • Jaden Korr
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I'd love to see him do one where he showcases his "shattered" weathering technique.
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43829

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Jaden Korr wrote:
in the comments he said he believes the new NBv3 can power a 12w quad LED (like SF's) without any problem, which was something I had been wondering since the v3 now has the PEx built in.

I'd still caution against that - included PEX doesn't bump the main LED current up to 4A - it just means the FoC mosfet is on-board instead of needing a separate board. The manual still specifies a 2A limit for the main LED - though if someone successfully wires up a 12W to a NBv3 without swing issue, I'll back down from this stance.

Now a 6W/6W LED like those used on Hero sabers should be fine, with one color for the main blade and another for FoC.
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DIY Install 3 months 3 weeks ago #43876

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Kouri wrote:
Jaden Korr wrote:
in the comments he said he believes the new NBv3 can power a 12w quad LED (like SF's) without any problem, which was something I had been wondering since the v3 now has the PEx built in.

I'd still caution against that - included PEX doesn't bump the main LED current up to 4A - it just means the FoC mosfet is on-board instead of needing a separate board. The manual still specifies a 2A limit for the main LED - though if someone successfully wires up a 12W to a NBv3 without swing issue, I'll back down from this stance.

Now a 6W/6W LED like those used on Hero sabers should be fine, with one color for the main blade and another for FoC.

This is good to know. I've seen people use a 12w quad LED (with all dies on/no FoC) with a NBv2 using the separate PEx before, though I didn't know what that hack involved, so I wondered if this would work now that the PEx was integrated into the board.
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DIY Install 3 months 2 weeks ago #44042

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Jaden Korr wrote:
This is good to know. I've seen people use a 12w quad LED (with all dies on/no FoC) with a NBv2 using the separate PEx before, though I didn't know what that hack involved, so I wondered if this would work now that the PEx was integrated into the board.

The PEx hack didn't integrate the FoC circuit onto the board. The idea was to wire a second power transistor onto the existing main LED transistor. The part's hard to find online if you don't know the part number, so the easiest source was from PEx boards. Some folks removed the transistor from the PEx board and soldered it right on top of the existing one on the NB, others left it on the daughterboard and bridged the connections with wire.

I've not taken a serious look at the boards on either revision of the Nano Biscotte. If the V3's revision is just a larger mosfet to enable FoC on the same board, then yes, a 12W could work. If, however, PEx was integrated by adding a second transistor on a different part of the circuit, then no, the main LED channel isn't really rated for that kind of output.

Another issue is the battery. A common issue with running a 12W on a hacked NB was swing issues when board current got to low. Common 18650s can struggle above 3A, and might not supply current to power the board and a 12W properly. This leads to glitches on the board like unintentional/constant swinging. I imagine SF batteries are designed to output the proper current. Naigon mentions a few brands in his board manuals. Solo's Hold makes some nice 10A batteries as well. Alternatively, if there's space in the hilt, 26650s usually have higher current and runtime than the smaller 18650s.

On a last note, while I like Plecter boards, I'll typically recommend Naigon boards for SF LEDs - the boards are built to handle higher-wattage LEDs (the Z6 LED he offers is basically an 18W RGB LED). The basic offering, the Spark 2, costs a little more than a Nano Biscotte, but it's also got a larger feature set. It'll run on one switch, but has support for two. Blaster block, lockup. You have the option of using channel 1 for a main LED color and channel 2 for FoC, or you can treat it like a base Hero saber with a different color on each channel and color mix those two channels any way you like. A single color 12W *should* be fine on its own in channel 1, but I'd personally split the power between both channels to keep heat down. If you forego FoC, there's also crossguard support with the main blade on Channel 1 and delayed crossguards on channel 2.
Last Edit: 3 months 2 weeks ago by Kouri.
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DIY Install 3 months 2 weeks ago #44085

  • Falconfour4
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So the SF 12W unit is a no no then :(
Would the SF 6W unit be ok? i have a graflex hilt that I'm going to start modding and i was going to use this video as a guide.
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DIY Install 3 months 2 weeks ago #44246

  • Jaden Korr
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Kouri wrote:
Jaden Korr wrote:
This is good to know. I've seen people use a 12w quad LED (with all dies on/no FoC) with a NBv2 using the separate PEx before, though I didn't know what that hack involved, so I wondered if this would work now that the PEx was integrated into the board.

The PEx hack didn't integrate the FoC circuit onto the board. The idea was to wire a second power transistor onto the existing main LED transistor. The part's hard to find online if you don't know the part number, so the easiest source was from PEx boards. Some folks removed the transistor from the PEx board and soldered it right on top of the existing one on the NB, others left it on the daughterboard and bridged the connections with wire.

I've not taken a serious look at the boards on either revision of the Nano Biscotte. If the V3's revision is just a larger mosfet to enable FoC on the same board, then yes, a 12W could work. If, however, PEx was integrated by adding a second transistor on a different part of the circuit, then no, the main LED channel isn't really rated for that kind of output.

Another issue is the battery. A common issue with running a 12W on a hacked NB was swing issues when board current got to low. Common 18650s can struggle above 3A, and might not supply current to power the board and a 12W properly. This leads to glitches on the board like unintentional/constant swinging. I imagine SF batteries are designed to output the proper current. Naigon mentions a few brands in his board manuals. Solo's Hold makes some nice 10A batteries as well. Alternatively, if there's space in the hilt, 26650s usually have higher current and runtime than the smaller 18650s.

On a last note, while I like Plecter boards, I'll typically recommend Naigon boards for SF LEDs - the boards are built to handle higher-wattage LEDs (the Z6 LED he offers is basically an 18W RGB LED). The basic offering, the Spark 2, costs a little more than a Nano Biscotte, but it's also got a larger feature set. It'll run on one switch, but has support for two. Blaster block, lockup. You have the option of using channel 1 for a main LED color and channel 2 for FoC, or you can treat it like a base Hero saber with a different color on each channel and color mix those two channels any way you like. A single color 12W *should* be fine on its own in channel 1, but I'd personally split the power between both channels to keep heat down. If you forego FoC, there's also crossguard support with the main blade on Channel 1 and delayed crossguards on channel 2.

Thanks for the info. I had planned on getting a NEC board if I'd ever get a SF crossguard just for that delayed ignition.

I've edited one of my initial post directing viewers to what you've had to say on the topic.
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Last Edit: 3 months 2 weeks ago by Jaden Korr.
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DIY Install 3 months 2 weeks ago #44340

  • Falconfour4
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Would the SF 6W unit be OK to use instead of the 12W then?
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