Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
Threaded Indented

TOPIC: Swapping the LED module help.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 5 days ago #56523

  • ivenoname
  • ivenoname's Avatar
  • Offline
  • New Member
  • Posts: 2
So I don't really like the color of my saber (I think I was given the wrong color by mistake) and I bought a new module to replace it.

What I would like to know is what would be good to splice the wires together? I was looking at wire butt connectors, but they seem large for the small amount of space I have available. Some type of connector that would allow me to easily swap modules would be cool, though I don't really plan (who knows what the future holds) on changing it again.

Please note that I know nothing about electronics, so please keep it simple.

Thank you.

P.S. I have the Ka Tano saber, in what is supposed to be Cyan, but looks way more like the Lime Green color.
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 4 days ago #56643

  • SilverlightPony
  • Offline
  • Senior Member
  • Posts: 41
  • Thank you received: 18
ivenoname wrote:
So I don't really like the color of my saber (I think I was given the wrong color by mistake) and I bought a new module to replace it.

What I would like to know is what would be good to splice the wires together? I was looking at wire butt connectors, but they seem large for the small amount of space I have available. Some type of connector that would allow me to easily swap modules would be cool, though I don't really plan (who knows what the future holds) on changing it again.

Please note that I know nothing about electronics, so please keep it simple.

Thank you.

P.S. I have the Ka Tano saber, in what is supposed to be Cyan, but looks way more like the Lime Green color.
Maybe sommat like this?
http://amzn.com/B00E7MXA2W

As for the current color, make sure the battery is charged. Cyan is a mixed color, and different LED dies need different amounts of power, so as the battery gets weak, some of the dies will dim and the apparent mixed color will shift.
Last Edit: 3 months 4 days ago by SilverlightPony.
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 4 days ago #56645

  • Jaden Korr
  • Jaden Korr's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • "Remember, [Force] abilities are not inherently good or evil; it's how you use them." --Kyle Katarn
  • Posts: 1020
  • Thank you received: 476
Definitely check the battery level. After that, another thing you can do to see what LED you received is to shine it at a wall without a blade or blade plug in. If you see a mix of blue and green, you have cyan. If it looks mostly green with a bit of amber, you have lime green. SF's 12w cyan LED uses 2 regular blue dies and 2 green dies (1 of each in a 6w), and lime green has 3 green dies and 1 amber die.

As for swapping the LED, if you didn't order the quick connect option (SF uses Deans Micro Plugs, like THESE), you will have to do some soldering; both to connect the old module and then to attach the new one. If you don't have a good soldering iron already, this may be more than you want to spend. If you do want to add the quick connects yourself, the ones SF uses are the best option, since they are small and the way they connect together makes it impossible to plug in upside down (assuming you attached the right wire to the correct prong).

EDIT: If you determine that you received the incorrect LED, contact SF and they will replace it.
2005 MR Vader
B/B/W Graflex 2.0
yellow SF ASP Interceptor
Last Edit: 3 months 4 days ago by Jaden Korr.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
The following user(s) said Thank You: RichellM

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 4 days ago #56653

  • ivenoname
  • ivenoname's Avatar
  • Offline
  • New Member
  • Posts: 2
It is a mix of blue and green, though it doesn't really look cyan. Or at least doesn't look how I feel it should. It seems like they did indeed give me the right color, I just don't like it I guess. Which is a relief, because I love the quality of the work, and I didn't really want this to tarnish my outlook on Saberforge.

That being said, I am not really liking the color I chose. As such I would like to swap the module (knowing full well this will void my warranty). I do not feel comfortable soldering anything so the quick connects are out. Any help you guys could give as to how to go about this otherwise would be awesome.

Thanks for the replies guys.
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 3 days ago #56777

  • Jaden Korr
  • Jaden Korr's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • "Remember, [Force] abilities are not inherently good or evil; it's how you use them." --Kyle Katarn
  • Posts: 1020
  • Thank you received: 476
Even if you don't install quick connects, you will still have to solder the new LED's wires to the respective places the old one's was.
2005 MR Vader
B/B/W Graflex 2.0
yellow SF ASP Interceptor
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 3 days ago #56795

  • =Ottomatix=
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • "The fear of loss is a Path to the Darkside, Train yourself to Let Go of everything you Fear to Lose"
  • Posts: 1125
  • Thank you received: 454
Ivenoname, unfortunately there is no EASY fix for swapping a hard wired LED module, without some sort of soldering knowledge. I'm curious what color did you expect Cyan to look like? I know the image on the ASP builder is much greener than it actually is. I have a Consular 12w+Cyan and it is a light blue, mixed by 2 green and 2 blue dies. If you want to tackle the swap yourself I wouldn't recommend it!
Last Edit: 3 months 3 days ago by =Ottomatix=.
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 3 months 3 days ago #56838

  • Kouri
  • Kouri's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Posts: 476
  • Thank you received: 387
Found this non-solder tutorial online. Re-uploading here since the link limit prevents linking this many images.

Basic idea is to strip the wires, twist them together, fold over, seal with electrical tape, and then crimp the tape edges to keep things locked in place.

I still occasionally test mid-build connections this way (minus the crimping), but I still stick to solder + heatshrink when it comes time to finalizing the wiring.
















The administrator has disabled public write access.

Swapping the LED module help. 1 month 3 weeks ago #61279

  • RichellM
  • RichellM's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Premium Member
  • Posts: 82
  • Thank you received: 26
Jaden Korr wrote:
...if you didn't order the quick connect option (SF uses Deans Micro Plugs, like THESE), ...


THANK YOU Jaden Korr!!! I've been looking for these plugs but could not figure out the name!
The administrator has disabled public write access.
Threaded Indented

Member Login

Latest Posts

    • Caught the neighbors gawk... (9 Posts)
    • Quote: Quote: Had the police creep by a couple times too to figure out WTH was going on in my yard as I tried to...
    • The Wait Begins 4.0 (392 Posts)
    • Yes, I got my Vanquish, my ladies Grand Master and my sons Sentinel. ordered on 6/04 and arrived...
    • The Wait Begins 4.0 (392 Posts)
    • Quote: Customs was $219 CAD here, hurt a lot Woa. i didnt think we Canucks have to pay for customs. I will...
    • The Wait Begins 4.0 (392 Posts)
    • Mine was around 200$ (local currency is TRY and lets say it hurts :P) for about 1000$ package from...
    • The Wait Begins 4.0 (392 Posts)
    • Customs was $219 CAD here, hurt a lot

More Topics »

Forum Statistics

  • Total Users: 4459
  • Latest Member: Dave91n
  • Total Posts: 45.8k
  • Total Topics: 3342
  • Total Sections: 22
  • Total Categories: 109
  • Today Open: 3
  • Yesterday Open: 8
  • Today Answer: 34
  • Yesterday Answer: 55