TOPIC: SF 12W+ Blade Color Die Configuration

I'm currently doing research before I buy SF Standard 12W+ LEDs to configure a saber with a Spark 2 board (I understand that Spark 2 can only mix 2 colors; I'll be using 2 dies on each channel). Can anyone tell me the SF 12W+ die configuration for each of the colors?

-White=
-Arctic Blue=
-Light Blue=B/B/B/B
-Medium Blue=B/B/Rb/Rb
-Deep Blue=Db/Db/Db/Db
-Cyan=B/B/G/G
-Mint Green=
-Lime Green=
-Green=G/G/G/G?
-Yellow=
-Amber=A/A/A/A?
-Blood Orange=A/A/R/R
-Red=R/R/R/R
-Pink=
-Purple=
-Indigo=

Also, can anyone confirm the following:

- All four LED dies share their positive connection?
- 2 of the dies share there negative connection?
- The other 2 dies share a different negative connection?

there's already a post similar to this. check out:

https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/saber-forge-saber-gallery/11313-sf-quad-cree-mixing-combinations-colour-gallery

From Phil himself

That video is about two years old and I know that some colors have changed a bit since then such as the White and Arctic Blue.

If you know one that changed (or all) please elucidate. It's what were working on Hoss.

Gnost-Dural wrote:
Thank you! I was looking for 2 hrs...couldn't find this and gave up.

EDITED Removed copy of list from here.

Go to Link in above post for most current list. Just in case, here's a quick link to it:

SF Quad Cree Mixing Combinations & Colour Gallery

Also, can anyone confirm the following:

For a Hero 6/6/12W configuration:
- All four LED dies share their positive connection etched onto the star board?
- 2 of the dies share there negative connection etched onto the star board?
- The other 2 dies share a different negative connection etched onto the star board?

For a Hero RGBA configuration:
- All four LED dies share their positive connection etched onto the star board?
- All dies have their own individual negative connection?

RichellM wrote:
From what I could tell with the LED modules I've ordered, can confirm the positives are wired together and the negatives are separate. The two negatives are the connected to any necessary resistors before being wired together. Here's some pics of a 12W red LED I dismantled:





The connection for the second negative terminal broke as I removed the star from the heat sink, but you can still see the solder bubble on the pad that was used. For a Hero 6/6/12 module you just have to keep the resistored leads separate south of the resistor, instead of joining them as shown.

For RGBA I can't imagine the setup deviates too much from the recommended Spark Color 2 quad-cree RGBA wiring diagram: shared positive and individually resistored negatives to each of the terminals on board.

Snakeeyz99,
Thank you! It looks similar to my 12W+ Deep Blue module. But, from your second picture, what about the other two negatives? How are those dies connected/lit?

I have a similar configuration with 2 of the negative pads jumpered with a wire and one negative going out of the die...I can only assume 2 of the dies have there negatives etch-connected on the star board (as well as the other two), but, I can't confirm that because I'm having difficulty de-soldering the jumper (copper plate is absorbing the heat).

I agree with your statement about RGBA, it is only logical, thank you.

I think the connection is made at the actual negatives of the SMD LEDs. I drew up what I theorized the connection to be a while ago in CAD:



You can have 4 separate contacts on the board, one for each LED, and by shorting the two adjacent ones with a small amount of solder during the SMD soldering process you can use the same star layout for stars with 2 negative wires or 4. This, for me, explains how the company could not only use the same LED star for RGBA, 6/6/12 and single color LEDs, and may also explain why the single color modules use two negative wires.

If this is the case, either pad could be used for each side of the module.

Snakeeyz99 wrote:
Again, it's logical. Thank you for all this work you did in answering my questions! Hopefully, other forum members can benefit from your efforts.

Took apart my arctic blue for fun and found this:



Don't remember seeing bridging wire before.

Pretty jealous of that solder job, though. Mine look like...something that looks bad.

BoostinIX wrote:
I'm so glad you showed this. I'm confused on how this works. My Deep blue looks like this.






I would have expected it to look like what you have. I'm not sure I understand how mine works. Is the way mine was wired what you were expecting?

HotRod wrote:
Hot Rod,
That's exactly what my Deep blue looks like! Seems all the positives are share a positive pad (which also connects to the other positive pad) and (referencing your picture) the two top negative pads are somehow connected which are then jumpered to a bottom negative pad which is somehow connected to the other bottom negative pad. I'm only guessing at this, cuz I can't actually see how the 2 negative pads on the top are connected nor see how the negatives pads on the bottom are connected...the other 2 dies, with seemingly has no negative connections, are somehow being lit...How?

Snakeezy99 posted a very good theory above which is logical, but then again, how do we verify it?

So if the jumper is removed and another wire is connected to the top negative pad, there will be 2 dies on a negative wire and another 2 dies on the other negative wire. ​The Quad dies can then be separated to 2 channels on a Spark 2 (thus helping with heat/power distribution).

I'm trying to find out which configuration is common to all SF 6W/6W/12W LED modules; ours or BoostIX's (pictured in his post). Seems like they vary, but how and why do they vary, I do not know. Maybe based on the requested color by the buyer? Again, I don't know.

I also want to know the SF 6W/6W/12W LED connection configurations so I can plan how to connect them to specific soundboards and plan how to mix the colors before I buy the LEDs.

I also don't want to be surprised if pairs of dies are "mysteriously" connected and can't be disconnected.

I also want a million dollars...if possible $5M.

Sorry for the long post...

No worries. . We are trying to figure this out together. I want to use a Medium Blue or Arctic Blue in my Redeemer build and have one channel for the 2 Royal Blue and other for the 2 Blue (or Green depending on what I decide). My fear is if I try to rewire it, then I am may blow it if they have some jumper in there that I cannot see.

Well I finally got my yellow LED cracked open (I'm not even exaggerating that much; the newer heatsink was screwed in so tight I was worried it was glued shut), and was surprised with what I saw:



It appears to have 3 amber dies and 1 green die, as opposed to 2 of each. I'm going to shoot SF an email about this to see if this is a running change or if I got a unique one.

Jaden Korr wrote:
Please let us know the response when you get it, Thanks.

I got an answer from Melissa a little bit ago:

Didn't say that it was a change or not, but at least we have an answer.

I also wonder if this means the 6w yellow is 1 of each and has the green more heavily resistored and the lime green not as much. Lime green is a (relatively) newer color to the SF lineup, so perhaps if there was a change to the yellow LED it happened when lime was released.

Jaden Korr, Thank you. Correction made to the OvrcAHst's list above.