TOPIC: Tri-Crees and Thin Necks

Can anyone attest to how well a Tri-Cree can light up a thin neck? I test fitted a Tri-Cree optic in mine and it seems like because the dice are distributed around the star, a decent amount of the light will be just hitting the base of the thin neck, rather than going through. This is just from looking down the emitter at the optic, though.

Is the more centered Quad better suited for these sabers?

Yes, you're right. I have a Tri-Cree in one of my thin neck sabers by another "major saber company". The base of the emitter itself cuts through the three LED rings almost half way on each. In my opinion, the SF 12W+ thin neck solution is a little brighter for a given color.

Borommakot wrote: Colour illumination and brightness of a Tri Cree in a Thin Neck is very generous and more than acceptable. The actual perception of brilliance is still very subjective though. Whilst the close-set die positioning in a SF Quad Cree has merits, the wider-set die positioning of Tri Crees is not to be dismissed. The channelled focus of directional light will still be significantly dictated by several factors.*

ToyKeeper with her powers with Batteries and Kouri with his powers of LEDs, with independent knowledge, experience and application combined, they become Captain Planet an UltraMegaZord! and can offer a more scientific and detailed explanation with measurements and statistics (likely).

*In a nutshell from what I have followed over Topics here, general research and limited user experience dictating/influencing factors are: Focusing Lens, Thin Neck Light-promoting materials (like Mylar e.g.), Blades internal diffusing method, Blades external diffusing method either achieved by surface scoring of the Blades surface or elements with the Blades polycarb compound, Battery Size/Strength, mA measurement that's driven, Resistors.

Specific to Tri Crees vs. Quad Crees, (without elaboration on Cree-types used and presuming rates of drive, battery size and strength are relative) the Focusing Lens' angle of measurement and Lens quality will either heighten or lessen the resulting effect. Quad Crees whilst undeniably bright in a close-set formation, then become assisted with the Thin Necks Mylar Tunnel and then onto and downwards into a Blade. I personally find base flare is bigger but is dependant on Blade length as well and the required distance to maintain its strength over a changing length. I've got no problem with base flare.

Tri Crees, again driven down a Tunnel is still quite generous. Evenness (if you will) is marginally greater and base flare is lesser. Between the two though illuminated, whilst there are signs that can separate them I find it is not in-your-face obvious.

Between a Tri & Quad, rather than measure of brightness, I personally would look at measures of heat dispersion and retention. This much like Soundboards, some generate more heat than others and whilst long-term durability may be an allowance, it's whether the short term momentary lasting effects of the heat are acceptable to you with usage and if longevity is risked. With my (limited) experience, Quad Cree Thin Necks become much hotter in the Grenade and Switch Part than a Tri Cree.

As for which is better suited, umm.. 6 versus half a dozen. One won't be completely superior over the other.

Thing is you're not shining the LEDs directly through the emitter - the focusing lens plays a big part.

While the SF LEDs don't transfer light as efficiently to the lens as a Tri-Cree XP-E2 or Luxeon Rebel, the center-mounting lets them make use of tighter 5-8.7º lenses. The narrowest Tri-lens is ~10º. Also, keep in mind that the angles only measure spread from center, so it's really SF with a ~10-18º beam, vs the Tri-Cree/Rebel with a 20º beam.

I've not done the testing to offer a concrete statement of what works best in a thin neck.

On the one hand, I've been informed that a properly setup single-colored Tri-Cree will put out more light than a similarly configured 12W+.

On the other hand, the tighter angle of the 12W+ may focus more light down the narrow opening of the thin-neck emitter.

That's as much information as I can reliably offer, since I've yet to properly test a 12W+ star and haven't yet worked inside a thin-neck hilt.

Thanks for the feedback folks. I guess I'll just give it a test

Thanks for the info in this thread. I'm debating whether to get the NECree or the Z6 for an ASP weathered Redeemer emitter. I have a feeling from everything I've read here in the forums and other groups, the difference would be negligible. I am leaning towards the Z6 because of the center alignment but I may just email Naigon and get their opinion. Is the lens that SH sells the same as the one on saberigniter? I want to make sure I get the appropriate lens if I do get the Z6. Thanks

I want to say there was a post by Naigon saying he was looking to move away from the Z6, it was power hungry and hot. NECree looking to replace it. (I want to say it was on IRA?)

So I emailed Scott (Naigon) about our discussion about which LED would be better to use in a thin neck (specifically) SF thin necks, the Z6 or NECree and this was his response.

"Thanks for your interest in my products. In general the NECree is a much better LED, but in this case a single die LED might be a better choice. I no longer offer the Z6 though so you'd either need to get one second hand, or just use an X4 from SaberForge.
Cheers!
Scott"

Hope this helps. Now to track down a Z6! Already checked his site and nothing left.

If you're after a color-changing center-mount, there's also the n RGBW Cree XML:

http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xml-rgbw-star-led

Though I'm having a bit of trouble finding a 5° lens that will fit the XML bubble. The standard optic selection is intended for the smaller Cree XP or Luxeon Rebel form factor.