TOPIC: Couple of questions

I bought some slide kill switches for use with my GOTH ai1 chassis, but...I'm not sure how to wire them. Anyone have experience with these? As you can see, each has 3 pins. Does that mean it's wired like a recharge port...? Doesn't sound right.

I also bought a couple of Railmaster speakers, one an 8 Ohm high bass like I used on my Martyr, and the other an 8 Ohm 2 watt speaker similar to the premium speakers from TCSS. Does this smaller one need a resistor? Are there any other special consideration with speakers like this? I bought it mostly just to try it out. My next couple of hilts have less real estate in the body, so the slimmer speaker might help save space.

They don't wire like a recharge port.
I would put the Negative on the center then attach the Positive to ether of the out side wires. When you "side" the switch it cuts the circuit or it completes the circuit.

I'll give that a shot.

Either the left or right but not both...

I'm really looking forward to seeing how you implement these switches.

In need to correct myself...
Do not wire positive and negative to the switch
Use both negative or both positive, one from the batterie and the other to the soundboard. Then just cut off the third lead.

Heh, no problem.

8ohm 2W seems to be a safe speaker for all the major boards. Going through my manuals...

NEC boards only specify 8ohm speakers.
1.5-2W for Spark 2
1.5-3W for Spark Color 2 and Igniter 2.

NBv3 says a 4-8ohm speaker, 2W Max.
CF 8 says 4-8ohm speaker. 2W (though no mention of maximum).

SF seems to use either 8ohm speakers or 4ohm-speakers-in-series-with-4ohm-resistors for their ASP Champion kits, so it seems that SaberCore is intended to use an 8ohm speaker.

Beyond that~ Dunno. Audio tech's something I've only just recently started getting into, so I can't offer first-hand experience.

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Vos pretty much covered the kill switch. only thing I'll add is sometimes folks'll wire multiple positive wires or multiple negative wires to the battery leads, depending on board setup. If you've got that going on, either

1) Splice the switch into the lead with the single wire (So if there are two positives and one negative, cut the negative wire and use the switch to bridge) or,

2) (Assuming two positive wires and wanting the switch on the positive line) De-solder the multiple wires, solder one new positive wire to the battery positive, join that wire to the switch (either end or middle), then connect the remaining wires to a switch contact right next to the previously soldered wire.

As long as you're using two switch contacts right next to each other and leaving the third unused, it'll function as a kill switch.

This is that AIO chassis that doesn't have a recharge port, right?

Thanks, Kouri. And yeah, this is the chassis w/o recharge port.

So, I did that thing.



But this morning I undid it. After putting a fresh battery in this morning, the switch wouldn't budge. It ended up snapping off XD. There was a small circle of plastic where the base was that still allowed the switch to move if pushed with a small head, like tweezers, but it was totally unresponsive. In the end I decided it wasn't worth the trouble and wired the board back to the battery sled.

But it was good proof of concept. It probably would've turned out better if it wasn't the last part of the chassis being installed. So I'll just keep the other two switches and hopefully find a good use for them in another saber.