TOPIC: Shadow's Bane - Part 2 (Electronics)

Decided I should probably move into this subforum since I'm dealing with electronics now (continued from my other thread "MHS saber on the way" (https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/saber-hilt-diy/4935-mhs-saber-on-the-way) in the Saber Hilt DIY forum).

Doing a bit of preliminary experimenting. Both the main LED and the AV switch ring LED light up, so the battery must work. Tomorrow I'll try to pick up some solder and really get started.



Main LED:



Switch LED:

How's it look? A little QA before I get started.

Looks right to me, but I'm far from an expert. Excited to see how it turns out, at any rate.

MusicallyInspired wrote:
There's some errors here that I can correct. For the switch LED, the dyna-ohm resistor has to go on the + wire, which will go to the common + on the NBv3. It looks like you have the positive wire going to the Deep Sleep pad, which is supposed to have the - wire. Swap your wiring for the switch LED and that will be fine. Other than that, it seems fine. If you're having issues getting the Deep Sleep pad to work, just solder to the other Accent pad above it. Much easier, as the cost of some battery life. The diagram looks a little strange over by the switch, but joining the - wires will work just fine, it just looks weird there haha. I personally prefer to just twist those two wires together and solder them both rather than sharing. Either will work. I'm sure you've done your research, but also make sure your recharge port is wired correctly. I don't remember the diagram for the switchcraft ones, but if you swap the - to the board with the - to the battery, the saber won't charge. It will still turn off via kill key, just not charge. Quite aggravating. If you have more questions, watch Madcow's videos on YouTube. He is extremely helpful and far more knowledgeable than I. MTFBWY

IINerfII wrote:
Oh. Then why does the manual itself explicitly show the positive should be connected to the DS?



That's why I didn't want to use the pad.

Yeah, some others have already mentioned and I've already thought of joining those wires before they go to the negative pad on the board. It's the pathways I was just trying to get right in this diagram. And it was a first draft.

So the recharge port is right? Or not?

Oh man, that's what I get for replying to a topic when I'm tired! You are right. The recharge port looks right as well. Sorry!

EDIT: just double-checked my switchcraft, and your wiring is correct.

Haha I've been there.

Just got back from Canadian Tire. I am ready. I'm so psyched.

Got it all working! Still need parts for a chassis though. Board's just bouncing around in there bridging connections by hitting the aluminium on the hilt. Also I need to rewire my charge port because it keeps turning off when hit too hard. But it was something to hold my own saber in my hands and turn it on with my new blade (which I love!). Also still need set screw holes drilled for covertec and blade retention and also an actual kill key.

Congratulations! Looks like you did a great job!

MusicallyInspired wrote: MHSInspired, one fine specimen you have accomplished there. One Thin(ish) Neck I can only look at and never have. Nice update.

The choke is a great grasping point considering the length of the hilt (and the 38" blade!). Almost needs to be there! It feel so natural to me. It's at the perfect balance point for the entire weapon.

MusicallyInspired wrote: Revisiting Part 1 (for a refresh) did you ever achieve success with the pointed Pommel and the proposed powdercoating? The result so far hasn't deviated that much from the original concept (quite accurate really) and it'd be awesome if it was able to make happen.

That was something I was considering. However, TCSS was out of that pommel by the time I was ready to order so I opted for the one I currently have. A shorter cone shape with a cut off end. I tihnk it works better as that small pommel and the large adapter piece it's connected to now makes up a better looking pommel itself. Better, that is, than having the large extension piece AND a long pointed pommel. Bit too much I think. I also opted not to get the powder coating down for two reasons: cost, and the fact that I wanted a light side hilt and that was just a dark side option. That said, it would have been nice to get a couple parts powder coated with a brass colour, but again cost. I'm in Canada so shipping and exchange is monumental. I was thinking of getting maybe a couple brass extension rings that can screw on in between parts. We'll see. I don't kow I kind of just want it done now lol. Running out of funds. Maybe the next one.

Music, I'm having trouble reading your posts because of the over-sized signature - text runs right off the screen. Would you mind scaling it down to 500px wide?

Also, I think you mentioned in your other thread needing a drill press to properly drill retention holes - but as long as you're careful and start with a small bit, it's pretty easy to do with a hand drill.

EDIT: You took care of that right quick. Thanks a bunch!

Also, haven't seen your finished wiring but going to bring this up to be safe - When you wired the resistor to your LED, did you solder the resistor pin directly to the LED contact, or did you use a bit of wire between the resistor and LED?

One of my beginner mistakes was soldering the resistor straight to the LED - electronic wiggle eventually broke the resistor away from the LED. You always want a little bit of flexible wire there to absorb the motion and keep the connection secure.

Kouri wrote:
Haha it didn't last very long. The large signature was literally up for about 20 seconds. As long as I needed to check it, resize it, and reupload it.

I'll have to see what I can do. I still need to get a hand tapping kit I think just to take things slowly enough. One of Rob's TCSS tutorial videos demonstrates drilling with a smaller bit straight through and then tapping with a hand tapping kit manually for the proper size (8/32). I may yet. I need to get some sort of vice first, though. I've nothing like that on hand. Thanks for the advice, though. Makes me feel a little better about attempting it myself.

Oh, no. I was connecting it to another wire. I think I need a new soldering iron, though. It only heats well enough to melt solder on one side of the tip and trying to make a connection over and over frustratingly heated the resistor itself too much I guess and the metal pin came right off.

Make sure you're using rosin-core solder. The flux will help the solder stick to your contacts and pins.

Alternatively, you can bend the resistor pin into a loop, loop and twist the wire into a sort of knot, and then solder that connection.

As for drilling~ I've done it a bunch without vise or press. It takes a while to get that first hole through the aluminum, so you have time to adjust yourself to get everything straight.

Sometimes the 8-32 tap will have an appropriately sized drill bit in the package. If not, you're looking for a 9/64" (I don't have a set of metric bits, so not sure what the proper equivalent is). My process basically goes

1) Score a "+" into the metal with a needle file so I've got a starting point that won't let the bit wander. A punch might also make an appropriate dent to start you off with.

2) Drill a pilot hole with a 1/16" or 3/32" bit. Just make sure you're perpendicular to the hilt on each axis.

3) Work your way up the bit sizes. 7/64". 1/8", 9/64"

4) Get your 8-32 tap ready. Go slowly. One or two turns clockwise. Then back-out counter-clockwise to break the chips. Then keep going clockwise. Make sure you're still perpendicular here - even if the hole's straight, you can still wind up with crooked threads. Still, you *can* move the tap to an angle while cutting to loosen your threads a bit and give the screw some wiggle-room to line up proper.

~

I've honestly not once used a drill press or vice when making blade retention or covertec screws. The system's fairly forgiving, so you don't need to be perfect.

Get yourself a set of Titanium drill bits, they go through aluminum like a hot knife through butter. The 1/16" will go through VERY fast.

If you have a clamp, just clamp the hilt to a piece of wood for a little extra stability and hold with one hand while drilling with the other.

Awesome information. Thank you!

Where would you say would be the ideal spot on this blade holder for a retention screw?

I would say a good spot would either be in the first recessed grove (from the bottom) if you cut down the retention screw, or you could put it right above the bottom flare. I'm assuming the LED is sitting just below that blade holder? If it's higher up, then you might have to put the blade screw in the top recessed groove.