TOPIC: Newbie - Wiring question

Hi All,

Let me start by saying that I am new to the Forum and have been very impressed with the shared respect and information exchange here.

My first interaction at the Forum was buying an old style ASP sound board and peripherals from fuzzjunk. Fuzzjunk is a great guy who helped rekindle my interest in sabers. Here's where I date myself. My last build was in 1998 when I installed a neon glass tube into a Parks Saber. It still works!

The sound kit I have is the older one with no kill key or lighted switch. I want to add a latching switch to be able to cut the power to the board and isolate the battery while its still in the harness (the switch would also fill the second hole in the ASP switch section I have incoming).

My question is... Which of the two exposed wires (I know the third is to the motion sensor) might possibly be coming from the battery and lend itself to being cut into and splicing in a latching switch? I don't really want to cut away the liquid tape and do any exploratory surgery, so I figured I'd tap the collective for info. I have added a photo of the unit for reference.





I would also appreciate any other info on the board. i.e. battery drain when left in the harness, average battery life...

I will post the build in the proper section with pics in the future.

Thank you!

The battery + and - are under the liquid heatshrink/velcro on the top right hand side of the board as it is oriented in your image, i don't know how you'd get to them without getting under the heatshrink stuff.

Found that out from another thread on here discussing adding a recharge port. Thankfully they are easy to get to, unfortunately the wires are not long under there.

Thanks GenericSteve, I found the thread you referenced and it was very useful. I can picture the wires under the spot not having much room and the best use of space would be to keep the wires short like you said.

My plan B was to sandwich a thin nonconductive material between the battery contacts, solder wires to the contacts, and run the wires to a mini deans. I made something similar in the past and it looks like a thin coin with two wires attached; works well. I'd put the "sandwich" on the negative end of the battery before inserting it into the Sabercore tray and attach my kill switch via the deans. No modification to the board!

Thanks for responding! Kinda confirmed the direction I needed to go.