TOPIC: Advice for a first time full build

I just got my Phoenix hilt in from the sale and I want to see about doing a full build as a practice run for others later. I want to be able to use sound fonts and sound/light effects like foc and blaster blocks, so I'm looking at a Spark 2 for a sound board since it fulfills those preferences and is fairly cheap. But if anyone has a better option for around the same price, I'd appreciate the info. Beyond that, I'm not sure what I'll need for switches and LEDs.

I presume I'll need a main and auxiliary momentary switch for all the features, along with a recharge port. But the hilt only has 2 holes and I don't want to drill another. So I'd like to find something like what they use on the hero pnp kit, but preferably with flatter dual switches. I'd also like if it was illuminated so I can use the spark's accent pads.

As for the LED, I really only want green and, to a lesser extent, blue (for a photon blade). Just not sure how that works with the Spark 2's limited color mixing.

I expect I can find a battery without too much difficulty and a recharge port straight from SF.

Once I get the parts in, I'll probably be back to see what the community has to say about my assembly plans before the build. So if anyone has any advice on parts, I'd appreciate the help.

Most of my knowledge comes from reading what others have posted or going over the soundboard manuals... so someone else may be able to help you better, but hopefully I can at least point you in the right direction.

Slightly cheaper and a bit simpler to wire (especially for a first install) is the Nano Biscotte v3 (NBv3). It has larger pads, and you don't have to bridge part of the board with the LED pads to the main board like you have to on a Spark/Igniter board. NBv3 is less feature-rich than the Spark 2 though. You don't get aux effects (blaster block, blade lockup). It only has a single channel for main blade and FoC, so any color mixing will need to be done manually on the LED via resistors, and you cannot change the color without re-wiring. For example, if you want Orange you'd use a Red and Green die with a resistor on the Green to dim it.

Switches depend on the board. Spark can be setup to use either a momentary or a latching main switch, but the aux switch needs to be momentary. NBv3 only uses one momentary, since it doesn't have aux effects. There's two common practices that I've seen: Put one switch and the recharge port into the existing holes, then drill another (smaller) hole to mount a tactile aux switch (you can find those at TCSS). The other would be to put both switches in the switch holes, and then use a chassis with an internal/hidden recharge port. While the NBv3 doesn't have an true accent LED pad, you are able to wire a "power indicator", which you can wire to the illuminated switch.

Spark 2 can mix on 2 channels. So the best setup for that board is an X4 star like SF uses, or you'd use a Tri-Cree/Rebel but only use 2 of the 3 dice. Which due to the optics on a Tri LED, is not much, if any, loss of brightness. The SF X4 star uses a lens designed for a single die, which is why a SF 12w+ isn't that much brighter in some cases when compared to even a single 1-up LED.

With that said, using Spark 2 you can have an X4 star with 2x B on one channel and 2x G on the other, or do the same with a Tri LED, just not using w/e the third die is. You can then use both Blue and Green separate, or mix them in varying shades. With NBv3 you obviously can't mix, so you'd need to decide on Green vs Blue.

My recommendation: Go with NBv3 for a simple first install and use either a Tri-Rebel Lime/Green/PC Amber OR a Tri-Cree Blue/Blue/White (if you intend a Photon blade). L/G mixed gives a nice RotJ from what I've heard, and the PC Amber would give it a nice Yellow FoC. That is the install that I have planned for my Phoenix with Jas-Ot. Blue is the best color for a Photon blade, so a BB/W would give you a vibrant green blade with the White FoC giving it slightly more of a lime shade.

Right above this post, sicky is your friend.

https://saberforgeforum.com/forum/saber-electronics-diy/10644-diy-sound-board-breakdown

Beyond that, research research research. Read everything you can, will save you money in the long run.

If you went with 2 momentary switches and a recharge port If you don't want to tap another hole you can use 3d printed chassis parts to put your recharge port on the inside. Then to turn on the saber you would unscrew the pommel, pull out the chassis slightly, remove kill key and return the chassis and rescrew the pommel. Then you don't have a kill key externally and you wouldn't have tap any holes. Another popular option, which would require some hole cutting but on a much less obtrusive place, would be to put the recharge port in the center of the pommel. Otherwise what they use in the hero kits are called tactile switches.

Well in order of preference, I'd prefer something similar to the hero switch but with less pronounced buttons and added illumination. If not that, I suppose I'd rather add a new hole for a switch. I'd like the kill switch on the outside and to be noticeable. But I can't even find the switches SF uses, much less something close to my desires. The hero switch is just kind of troublesome due to how pronounced the buttons are, causing unintentional presses and just being kind of uncomfortable.

Yeah, that's why I'm strongly considering the Spark 2. It's more of a question of finding an appropriate switch and understanding the LEDs.

The switch used for the Hero sabers is built in-house by SF. It's two tactile switches with a custom mounting bracket and switch plate. There only way to try and get one outside of the Hero Kit would be to contact SF and see if you can purchase one for DIY, but I don't think there'd be room to add an accent LED under it for illumination.

Going with Spark 2, I'd do illuminated main switch with a tactile aux. If I were to put a tactile switch on the Phoenix, I'd put it here out of the way:




It'd still be easy to enough to reach while handing the saber, but far enough out of the way to avoid any accidental presses.

There's 3 general types of tactile switches: flat button, tall button (what SF uses), and round button (what VV uses, and what Jas-Ot is putting into a Vengeance for me). So if you don't like the feel of the tactiles that SF uses, you have some other options. TCSS carries all 3 of those types. Their mounting brackets won't fit SF hilts though, so you'd need to find or make your own. There may be some 3D printer that makes ones to fit SF hilts. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tactile-C65.aspx

KelbornX wrote:
If that's the case, I'm guessing finding something similar isn't an option. I don't want to try and build a switch. So I suppose drilling a 3rd hole is the best option. Illuminated main switch and either a normal or illuminated aux switch (I'm not entirely familiar with all the terminology yet, but I'm assuming from context and a quick google search that tactile=momentary). I'll probably go for a flat button for a low profile. The SF momentary pnp illuminated switches would work for this, wouldn't they? I'd just have to work around the quick connects.



I suppose I'd either put it in that spot. Or maybe on the opposite side depending on how I hold it and whether the switch might interfere with the LED.

Spark2 can be setup for single switch. Which is why it remains my favorite board for SF hilts. Plays nice with the hilt out of the box, no need to drill for secondary switches, plus you get blade effects and FOC and two channel color mixing.

No need for you to go through the extra steps for the secondary switch.

That being said, NBv3 is a little easier of an install. Spark2 will require you to bridge the pads to the Xdrive, and the non LED pads are pretty tiny. 24-26 AWG PTFE coated wire is about the biggest wire you'd want to use.

You're definitely nearing the LED area there, will take some cram-fu to make sure everything goes in well. Also need a very low profile switch if you ever want to remove that shroud without undoing the switch. I can't imagine a 12mm fitting there.

TCSS Switch 22 is a press-fit, so that could be doable if you really wanted a switch in that spot. Not sure that's where I'd put it. /shrug.

SFCS has stated they do not sell the dual tactile switches separate. For 12mm's, SF sells both DIY and pre-wired (if you want illumindated). TCSS and KR also have 12mm AV switches.

I'll ask the simple question, why not put the 3rd switch on the other side? 180degree from the current pair.

While I didn't personally enjoy the spark 2, I gotta give it credit for being a single switch capable board. NBv3 is def an easy install/configure by comparison, Prizm shouldn't be much more difficult. (Those Spark 2 bridges were frustrating at first lol)


Since this is your first attempt at this, have you considered having a smith do your install? Kouri does commissions iirc? Jordan Moll still takes in work. Just a thought. Few things more frustrating than messing up a soundboard, and only finding out it's damaged after you install.