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TOPIC: Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86958
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Hello Master Eddlyss,
Regarding the recharging port, if you don't fancy the idea of drilling a hole (or can't drill one) it is possible to feed the wires past the speaker mount and you could get a pommel with an insert that can have a recharge port installed in it. There is an insert with a hole directly in the centre which is threaded so you can have the RC in the middle and have sound holes around it. The inserts are MPS V2 Insert style 2 and the MPS Style 6 insert (can't remember which MHS version US use) I will PM you the links to the two pages. kind regards, For Tyeth |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86961
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Eddlyss64 wrote:
So something just occurred to me. How am I going to charge this saber? Will I need to drill a hole to put a charging port through or...?
Since you're drilling a hole (likely) for the LED retention, you can just drill another to fit a RCP. If you dont want an external RCP, depending on what your chassis solution is going to be (or internal fit-out), the options there to either: pigtail the recharge port internally; secure it internally on chassis; or wire to the battery sled only and adopt a removable battery for recharging so you can loadNgo for extended use with loaded spares.
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86963
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Or just wire it with a removable battery and take the battery out to charge it.
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86967
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If you use the TCSS V6 speaker/battery holder, it takes a keystone holder for removable battery. Probably the simplest chassis to use in an Ultrasabers build.
I vote Pico still. |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86968
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KelbornX wrote:
If you use the TCSS V6 speaker/battery holder, it takes a keystone holder for removable battery. Probably the simplest chassis to use in an Ultrasabers build.
I vote Pico still. Looks good to me. So I would be able to unscrew the pommel, pull out the chassis without causing damage to the LED and switch wires and replace the battery that way? EDIT: I'm looking into Tri-Rebel LEDs for this project. An RGB LED is going to work better for me than a Blue Blue White, for example, correct? Will blade brightness be more or less the same? |
 Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 3 days ago #86979
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Eddlyss64 wrote:
Looks good to me. So I would be able to unscrew the pommel, pull out the chassis without causing damage to the LED and switch wires and replace the battery that way?
So long as you leave enough slack in the wires, yes. US hilts are fairly roomy so that's totally doable. I'm actually planning a build out using that chassis in a Menace CE hilt right now, and will probably use the same chassis (just for sake of proper securement) when I do a stunt install of my own Apprentice v4. Eddlyss64 wrote:
EDIT: I'm looking into Tri-Rebel LEDs for this project. An RGB LED is going to work better for me than a Blue Blue White, for example, correct? Will blade brightness be more or less the same?
More or less. The presets on a Pico have a color similar to a standard Blue. B/B/W would probably appear about 20%-30% brighter... but you with RGrB you obviously get the option of MORE colors. That's the tradeoff you get; less bright on certain mixes or single die colors... but with more to choose from. |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 2 days ago #87005
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KelbornX wrote:
Eddlyss64 wrote:
Looks good to me. So I would be able to unscrew the pommel, pull out the chassis without causing damage to the LED and switch wires and replace the battery that way?
So long as you leave enough slack in the wires, yes. US hilts are fairly roomy so that's totally doable. I'm actually planning a build out using that chassis in a Menace CE hilt right now, and will probably use the same chassis (just for sake of proper securement) when I do a stunt install of my own Apprentice v4. Eddlyss64 wrote:
EDIT: I'm looking into Tri-Rebel LEDs for this project. An RGB LED is going to work better for me than a Blue Blue White, for example, correct? Will blade brightness be more or less the same?
More or less. The presets on a Pico have a color similar to a standard Blue. B/B/W would probably appear about 20%-30% brighter... but you with RGrB you obviously get the option of MORE colors. That's the tradeoff you get; less bright on certain mixes or single die colors... but with more to choose from. Hm. That is quite a trade-off. But implying that I was trying to attain, say, an Arctic Blue blade, it would still be fairly bright and thus the difference wouldn't matter? EDIT: Also, I'm looking at Luxeon Tri-Rebels on TCSS, how do I select a Red/Green/Royal Blue combination? If it's there, I'm not seeing it. RGB Tri-Cree's are also sold out. Agh! |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 2 days ago #87011
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Arctic Blue is just Royal Blue and Green run at an even mix, so RGrB or rBGW it wouldn't matter.... they'd be the same brightness.
In your previous query of BBW vs RGrB, to get that same shade of Blue with the RGrB you'd need a mix something like 0,1023,650... which is obviously not two dies run at full lol. TCSS has very limited options for Rebel LEDs. Most of the hobby has moved from Luxeon Rebel to Cree XP-E2, so I guess they don't feel a need to offer a wider variety. Best to go to LEDsupply or Luxeon directly. RGrB Crees usually aren't sold out for long... and again you could go do LEDsupply if you don't want to wait. |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 2 days ago #87016
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Eddlyss64 wrote:
Looks good to me. So I would be able to unscrew the pommel, pull out the chassis without causing damage to the LED and switch wires and replace the battery that way
Yep, that’s how I usually do UltraSabers builds. Like KelbornX said, just be sure to leave enough slack to pull the pack out fully. Though, that’s not usually an issue with one piece hilts. It’s a good idea to put the LED and switch in first, then run wires out the bottom of the hilt and solder them to the board. When you do it that way, you always have plenty of slack in the wiring. |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 2 days ago #87036
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KelbornX wrote:
Arctic Blue is just Royal Blue and Green run at an even mix, so RGrB or rBGW it wouldn't matter.... they'd be the same brightness.
In your previous query of BBW vs RGrB, to get that same shade of Blue with the RGrB you'd need a mix something like 0,1023,650... which is obviously not two dies run at full lol. TCSS has very limited options for Rebel LEDs. Most of the hobby has moved from Luxeon Rebel to Cree XP-E2, so I guess they don't feel a need to offer a wider variety. Best to go to LEDsupply or Luxeon directly. RGrB Crees usually aren't sold out for long... and again you could go do LEDsupply if you don't want to wait. That's disappointing, I really want to limit the parts I buy to just a couple different suppliers. I could pay extra for a custom Tri-Cree, but that's 27 bucks for the color combo I need. EDIT: A Tri-Cree is only $24 for the Arctic color. That's still a lot... scifidude79 wrote:
Yep, that’s how I usually do UltraSabers builds. Like KelbornX said, just be sure to leave enough slack to pull the pack out fully. Though, that’s not usually an issue with one piece hilts. It’s a good idea to put the LED and switch in first, then run wires out the bottom of the hilt and solder them to the board. When you do it that way, you always have plenty of slack in the wiring.
Good to know. My next question was probably gonna be how I was going to install everything haha |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 2 days ago #87063
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Okay, so say that I go with a rB/G/W Tri-Cree LED. That's $24. Or I could just have a standard blue color with BBW for $16. Doesn't matter. In addition to those part's I'm going to need one of those LED adhesive pads to stick my LED to the heatsink, right?
Also, heatsink. What size heatsink am I going to need? Since the hilt can already use 1" blades, I should just need a .875" Heatsink for the LED, correct? EDIT: Better question. Could I just reuse the same heatsink that came with the saber in the first place? |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87084
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Yes, you need the thermal tape pad to both stick it to the heatsink and also to help transfer the head from the LED to the heatsink. You're also (obviously) going to need the tri-lens.
I would not reuse the heatsink that came with it, since it's all aluminum. You want copper. The heatsink that you want is this one or this one. They're for 1" ID, and have a copper base. The 0.875" is for 7/8" blade holders and will be wayyyy too loose. |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87086
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Gotcha.
So as of now, I have a list of most of the parts and equipment I'll need. I believe I'm still missing resistors for the LED, a blade (which I'm waiting on reviews of SF's Containment Blade to come in, in case that interests me), a blade plug, batteries, wiring, heatshrink and a soldering kit. I know Shameem uses flux and mounting tape for...something. What are those used for? EDIT: Also, considering my use of the MHS V6 speaker mount for a chassis, should I getting a specific kind of battery to be removable from that chassis? |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87091
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Well, if you're going with a Tri Rebel, which I'm assuming you are with that price point of $16, you can also get RB/RB/W, which will be slightly brighter than B/B/W. Your call, of course.
Those Tri Rebels are nice. My first sound install was an upgraded US Mystery Box saber, an Aeon LE V4. I installed a Tri Rebel in Cyan/Cyan/White with the two Cyans as my main and White as my flash on clash and it's a really nice blade. 
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87094
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scifidude79 wrote:
Well, if you're going with a Tri Rebel, which I'm assuming you are with that price point of $16, you can also get RB/RB/W, which will be slightly brighter than B/B/W. Your call, of course.
Those Tri Rebels are nice. My first sound install was an upgraded US Mystery Box saber, an Aeon LE V4. I installed a Tri Rebel in Cyan/Cyan/White with the two Cyans as my main and White as my flash on clash and it's a really nice blade.
From everything I've heard, Tri-Rebels are really solid LEDs for saber projects. It certainly works for me! I'm sure the normal Blue is lighter than Royal Blue (duh), what would you compare rB to? Say a deep blue? EDIT: Current price check (not counting batteries, resistors, wiring and heatshrink) is just under $175 |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87096
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Eddlyss64 wrote:
I'm sure the normal Blue is lighter than Royal Blue (duh), what would you compare rB to? Say a deep blue?
In terms of SF colors: Royal Blue = Deep Blue Blue = Light Blue scifidude79 wrote:
[...] you can also get RB/RB/W, which will be slightly brighter than B/B/W. Your call, of course.
Royal Blue is NOT brighter than standard Blue. Royal Blue is quite a bit towards ultraviolet and is actually one of the dimmest perceived colors. Standard Blue is a fair bit towards Green and is perceived much brighter. It's similar to the Red vs Deep Red debate: the richer the color, the dimmer it appears. |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87097
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KelbornX wrote:
Eddlyss64 wrote:
I'm sure the normal Blue is lighter than Royal Blue (duh), what would you compare rB to? Say a deep blue?
In terms of SF colors: Royal Blue = Deep Blue Blue = Light Blue scifidude79 wrote:
[...] you can also get RB/RB/W, which will be slightly brighter than B/B/W. Your call, of course.
Royal Blue is NOT brighter than standard Blue. Royal Blue is quite a bit towards ultraviolet and is actually one of the dimmest perceived colors. Standard Blue is a fair bit towards Green and is perceived much brighter. It's similar to the Red vs Deep Red debate: the richer the color, the dimmer it appears. Got it. Sticking with Blue. I'm trying to maintain that SWTOR feel, and the blue in that game is much lighter than, say, the prequels blue, which I've heard is comparable to Deep Blue. EDIT: what do you recommend for batteries? Something I can pop in and out of the saber and recharge, pop a charged cell in and get back to it. |
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Xiphos, Eris, Oracle Shoto |
Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87098
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Yeah, sorry, I don’t know why I was thinking royal blue was lighter. Maybe because I bought a royal blue LED once and I think they sent me the wrong blue because it’s just as bright as my RGB sabers that I know have regular blue in them.
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87100
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Eddlyss64 wrote:
KelbornX wrote:
Eddlyss64 wrote:
I'm sure the normal Blue is lighter than Royal Blue (duh), what would you compare rB to? Say a deep blue?
In terms of SF colors: Royal Blue = Deep Blue Blue = Light Blue scifidude79 wrote:
[...] you can also get RB/RB/W, which will be slightly brighter than B/B/W. Your call, of course.
Royal Blue is NOT brighter than standard Blue. Royal Blue is quite a bit towards ultraviolet and is actually one of the dimmest perceived colors. Standard Blue is a fair bit towards Green and is perceived much brighter. It's similar to the Red vs Deep Red debate: the richer the color, the dimmer it appears. Got it. Sticking with Blue. I'm trying to maintain that SWTOR feel, and the blue in that game is much lighter than, say, the prequels blue, which I've heard is comparable to Deep Blue. EDIT: what do you recommend for batteries? Something I can pop in and out of the saber and recharge, pop a charged cell in and get back to it. If you want to do a removable battery setup, just stay away from the Panasonic/Sanyo protected 18650 cells. They are a smidge too long to fit the battery holder well. Trustfire's are a popular choice for removable batteries |
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Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice 2 months 1 day ago #87101
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Trustfires are awesome. I use them in all my builds.
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