TOPIC: Overhauling my Ultrasabers Apprentice

For Tyeth Online Platinum Member Posts: 2407 Thank you received: 1090

Eddlyss64 wrote: What should I be using to encase my chassis? TCSS offers a clear tubing electronics shield in their Sound section, but the inner diameter is 1.25”. That's going to be too big, what should I use instead? Hello Master Eddlyss, regarding the T8 insulation tubing, if you take a piece of the tubing you can carefully cut along the length of the tube (like a Hot-dog bun) and you can then roll one edge over the other as if rolling a piece of paper. The edges overlap and you can roll it tighter or looser to the diameter you want then use a bit of tape to stick it in place and prevent it unrolling! And I would suggest you get the best quality soldering station/kit (and preferably an ESD safe model - this prevents static electricity build up which could damage circuit boards) you can afford as these "pens" might not provide enough heat to properly ensure a good flow of solder and flux to make a "good solder joint" Hope this helps, For Tyeth

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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305

Thanks for the help, all! New question on wiring. I just watched Shameem's How To video, which definitely helped a lot. I just want to clarify some things. Shameem installs a recharge port and permanently attaches his battery into the chassis. Since I'm doing removable batteries, would I be correct in assuming that the battery positive and battery negative leads will be soldered instead to the positive and negative pads on the battery tray? He also uses an RGB LED, while I will be using a Tri-Rebel BBW. How will wiring differ from an RGB and my BBW LED?

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Danielbs80 Offline Elite Member Posts: 293 Thank you received: 30	I followed shameems video how to exactly for the Nano biscotti and installed it on an asp saberforge saber. You're correct about the battery and I think you would solder any lead the same way. You would just adjust the values in the config file I believe I think it says in the Nano biscotti manual.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305	Right, except I'm using a Pico Crumble.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305	So I was looking at my chassis selection, and I said that it would fit 1.25” ID MHS parts. Is that going to be too big for me to use? This is the chassis.
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KelbornX Offline Platinum Member Peace is a lie... Posts: 1038 Thank you received: 545	That's actually perfect for most US hilts. They're 1.25" ID too. The Pico is the same size as the NB, so it'll fit into any NB chassis.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305	KelbornX wrote: That's actually perfect for most US hilts. They're 1.25" ID too. The Pico is the same size as the NB, so it'll fit into any NB chassis. Guess that answers my question about the shield tubing, as well. Thank you much. Also, I'm looking at using an Infinity Edge blade and blade plug from SF, those are 1” blades. Those are still going to fit, correct? Or will they be too narrow?
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KelbornX Offline Platinum Member Peace is a lie... Posts: 1038 Thank you received: 545

Any 1" blade will fit in an US. The "blade holder" portion of the hilt is a 1" ID; it widens around the switch area to the 1.25". Typically when talking about bout the "ID" of a saber, it's referring to the install space's ID. If it's a 1" blade holder, it's a 1" blade holder. The only time you have problems is when the blade holders are truer to 1" than others but your blade (like the low quality control on US blades) is actually just a bit larger than 1". Even a 1.005" blade won't go into an exact 1" hole. Fortunately, most US and SF emitters are just a bit oversized that this isn't an issue with them.

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scifidude79 Offline Platinum Member Posts: 986 Thank you received: 372	Eddlyss64 wrote: So I was looking at my chassis selection, and I said that it would fit 1.25” ID MHS parts. Is that going to be too big for me to use? This is the chassis. Those work perfectly, I have them in two of my Ultrasabers hilts.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305

WIP Post 3/25 Today, after a quick trip into Menards for some more tools and a card with which to make an online purchase, I found myself at the cusp of a new chapter in my life. I rechecked and rechecked again my information, took a breath, asked the Force to be with me and placed my first part order! My Pico Crumble Dark, BBW Tri-Rebel (with additional parts) and red AV switch are officially en-route! I can't believe that this dream is slowly becoming a reality. The feeling is like no other! Hopefully the parts can arrive before Friday this week, so that I can give everything a once-over before getting back to school. Meanwhile, my toolset is growing. Today, I bought a soldering kit, some spare solder, flux, heatshrink and a pair of wire strippers. I'll add this to my dremel and sanding sponges! Can any of my Saber DIY mentors make sure that all of this equipment is up to snuff? I'd hate to use the wrong implements. Also, the lowest AWG that this wire stripper goes down to is 24. Will that work for 28 gauge wire? It was the lowest one there.

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DarthRevan17 Offline Premium Member Posts: 84 Thank you received: 42	That all looks good I used the same stuff and mine turned out alright
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Sere Sudae Offline Junior Member Posts: 25 Thank you received: 6

Do you have a solder wick? Cleanup is important, esp. if you haven't had training soldering before. You could either get a pump-type suction remover or a flux-soaked copper ribbon wick which acts more like a sponge. Picture is a little small so I can't tell for sure... Also, if you have flux-core solder, you don't need separate flux. a 24-gauge stripper should be able to strip 28 as long as it can bite into the insulation; then you might have to just twist and jerk it around a little. Push comes to shove you can strip (carefully!) with the wire cutter portion by gently rolling the wire after biting into it

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scifidude79 Offline Platinum Member Posts: 986 Thank you received: 372	The wire strippers probably won’t work. I use 26 gauge wire in most of my builds and I can’t use wire strippers on that gauge. I usually just carefully strip the wires with my snips. Everything else looks good. Personally, I use flux core solder, which eliminates the need for separate solder and flux, but that’s just a personal preference.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305

Thanks guy and gal. Both of you mentioned flux-cored solder, but I haven't heard good things about using it. Doesn't generate as strong a solder joint. Thanks for the recommendation, but like scifidude79 said, personal preference. I don't think I'll mind the extra little 'security step' of applying flux each time as long as I program that into my brain. I didn't think the strippers would necessarily work, but I wanted to grab them just in case there was a chance. I know Shameem uses 28 gauge wire and can strip it in his video, wonder what kind of wire strippers he uses. I did not get a solder wick. Is it totally necessary?

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scifidude79 Offline Platinum Member Posts: 986 Thank you received: 372

It’s not necessary, but if you need to remove solder a wick or pump is handy. I’ve had to remove solder from a sound board or two, so I’m glad my kit came with one. I won’t argue the merits of flux core vs solder and flux, but I will say I’ve never had issues with flux core. It’s what I was taught to solder with in the mid ‘90s. But, to each their own. I know I’ve see Shameem applying flux in his videos, while I don’t recall ever seeing Madcow do that, so he may use flux core. Both of those guys are pros at saber building.

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Sere Sudae Offline Junior Member Posts: 25 Thank you received: 6	Both in training and in professional settings I used flux-core solder. The biggest problem I've encountered was how messy it can get with repeated re-soldering. On that note; get some isopropyl alcohol as well, you can use it with q-tips to clean boards up!
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305	Good to know! We have both those things in the house, so that will be very convenient!
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IchiroKagetsume Offline New Member Posts: 6 Thank you received: 8	Another tool if you don't have it: https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522033033&sr=8-4&keywords=helping+hands&dpID=31GEhMw7WvL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch An extra pair of 'hands' to help hold stuff. It makes keeping sires still while soldering much easier.
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DarthRevan17 Offline Premium Member Posts: 84 Thank you received: 42	I’m really excited to see how this turns out for you, make sure you keep us updated with pictures! Stay awesome dude.
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Eddlyss64 Online Platinum Member "There is no death, there is the Force...no one's ever really gone." Posts: 1146 Thank you received: 305

@IchiroKagetsume , I have considered getting a helping hands display. I'm trying to avoid making too many online purchases because it means that I have to get a new card with every purchase, but if I see one of those, I'll probably see about grabbing one. Do you have any idea what stores might carry them? Mostly hobby stores? Or do you think I could find one at Menards or Walmart? @DarthRevan17 , the hype is much appreciated! If this project actually pulls through, then it's going to open up a ton of new opportunities for me. I'll be able to add this kind of thing to my repertoire and do commissions during the summer. Plus, I can't wait to have this sucker finished so I can show the family! Last time I wore this thing to a family gathering, it was basically a Maglite. Not so this time! Thanks again!

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