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TOPIC: More Blue-Green shades?
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71948
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Hey guys, I've been playing around with the adaptive parts saber builder and I am very excited to have come up with a design that I plan on buying when I'm able to budget for it.
My only wish is that there were more, deeper shades of blue-green. Cyan is nice, but it is a very light shade, and I'd like to see something that's a bit deeper of a shade and has a bit more of a balance of green with the blue. Something along the lines of a Cerulean or Aquamarine would be right about what I'm looking for. If you guys don't offer something like this directly, would there be a way to add to or combine the LEDs you guys have to customize the color? Sort of a DIY blade color change method? |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71949
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Or you could sample some coring effects using Day blades too. 
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71954
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Sorry, Mint Green is a bit too green. I'm looking for something more like the Sunrider's Destiny, if you're familiar with that?
I'm not aware of coring effects or day blades, are they something I've missed on the site? |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71955
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The color you're thinking of seems to be somewhere between Cyan and Mint Green. That might be possible with a G/B/B Tri-Cree, I think. You'd have to buy that elsewhere and wire it yourself, since SF only uses Quad-Cree LEDs.
Or if you had a Cyan LED (G/G/B/B.) and you wired each die separate (rather than G/G and B/B pairs), you could just turn one off, or use resistors to dim the greens if you're not using a soundboard. Using a board with Flash on Clash you could use the green die that's normally off to flash to Cyan. I could be way off base though; I'm just beginning to wrap my head around color mixing. |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71959
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Perhaps I'll try going with the Cyan and then a greed Day Blade and see how that comes out...
On the subject of ASP, can a saber be put together with the switch at the bottom (Like Obi-Wan's from ROTS and ANH, and Luke's from ROTJ)? Or do I have to have the switch at the top section of the saber? I can always put another box switch down at the bottom for decoration if needs be. |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71974
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You should be able to put the switch at the bottom. Though you'll probably require some couplers. The switch has dual male threads, the emitter will have female threads, and the body will have dual female threads. So assuming you go emitter, body, switch, then pommel, you'd need a double male couple between the emitter and body and a male/female couple between the body and pommel.
I'm still waiting on my first to arrive. And mine's a thin neck, too. So I'm not 100 percent sure on everything working. There may be complications regarding the internals fitting since usually you access the internals by taking off the pommel, but in your case the switch would be in the way. |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71976
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TyDinQwal wrote:
Perhaps I'll try going with the Cyan and then a greed Day Blade and see how that comes out...
I think that could do the trick, or at least look cool in its own way. From my own day blade experiments that should darken it nicely. Using the purple blade on Arctic blue turns it more medium blue, for example. TyDinQwal wrote:
On the subject of ASP, can a saber be put together with the switch at the bottom (Like Obi-Wan's from ROTS and ANH, and Luke's from ROTJ)? Or do I have to have the switch at the top section of the saber? I can always put another box switch down at the bottom for decoration if needs be.
Heliolord makes some good points about couplers and threading. You also may not want to use a soundboard when putting the switch at the bottom. Reason being you'll have the switches blocking the speaker, which typically uses the pommel as a "resonating chamber". It should work fine for a Warrior/stunt setup though. The LED wires should be more than long enough to reach all the way up to the emitter. |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71977
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I think I've figured out a suitable solution; I'll have the actual switch at the top and then have a mock switch section (juggernaut to get the "box" look I'm going for while not making the hilt too long) at the bottom of the body with a coupler and graflex pommel below that. Since I wont have an actual switch in the lower switch section it shouldn't interfere with the sounboard reaching the bottom. I'll share my design from the virtual saber builder when I get a chance.
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More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71978
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Would it not be possible to flip around the speaker and use a staff coupler (since it allows sound transfer) between the emitter and body (since they're both male/male couplers) and have the sound come out near the emitter rather than the pommel? It would be more realistic, too, since the sound should come from the blade. Though, again, I'm still waiting for mine, so I'm not sure whether it would fit backwards.
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More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71981
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Depending on the hilt you may not be able to fit any wires past the speaker.
In my ASP saber which uses the 06 Body, the Hi-Bass speaker is just about flush with the inside of the hilt. IIRC, that body has a 1.125" inner diameter, which is about standard on SF bodies. |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71982
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If you are looking to create a really specific color, you might want to look at a higher end sound board that is capable of color mixing the LED dice.
The Spark2 board allows color mixing on two channels - you could get a SF X4 LED star in a rB/rB/G/G configuration and mix any blue green combo you like. You could step up to any of the mid to high end Plector board for RGB or RGBA mixing as well as the Spark Color 2 and Igniter boards. The "Hero" tier sabers from SF use the Spark Color 2 |
More Blue-Green shades? 9 months 1 week ago #71998
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TyDinQwal wrote:
Sorry, Mint Green is a bit too green. I'm looking for something more like the Sunrider's Destiny, if you're familiar with that?
I am. May just be a difference of perceived colour as my interpretation of SFs colour to SD has been a cross between Cyan/Mint Green. 
I'm not aware of coring effects or day blades, are they something I've missed on the site?
Demonstrated by Execute66 with his posted Video..... it's essentially the illuminated centre of the main LED colour (not necessarily White) combined with the coloured silhouette of the respective Day blade. |
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