TOPIC: Disney Electronics into an Ultrasaber (Boredom)

So, first off this discusses those Ultimate Lightsaber kits that were released back in the day, specifically the Build Your Own Lightsaber dealio at Disney World.

I want to know if it is possible (and how easy it is) to put this:


Into this:


This also including changing how the sound works (that it stays activated from activation to deactivation, as these deactivate after being idle), and connecting it to the LED in some way.

I'm rather cheap and I love reusing things like this, so that's why I ask. If that's possible, then that'd tide me over until I can purchase a Saberforge.

I've used a Hasbro board in a custom saber before, so it's definitely possible. You're going to want to run a google search for an "Economy Board" tutorial.

A few things to keep in mind:

1) These boards can only handle 5-6v max, so if you're using the 2x14500 lithium-ion pack that US sells, you'll need to wire in a 5v regulator between the battery pack and soundboard. A single lithium-ion works great though. I've torn out 3xAAA battery packs from old flashlights to make my own 4.5v alkaline packs that work fine, too.

2) The board won't be able to drive a high-power LED. You'll need a transistor of some sort. I've used TIP42C transistors without issue, though I've heard others recommend an N-channel MOSFET. The idea is to have the transistor pull power straight from the battery, but use the board's LED-negative signal to know when it is and isn't supposed to supply that power. One thing I'll point out - if using the TIP42C, the voltage supplied to the transistor needs to be the same applied to the board - meaning if you're using the 5V regulator on the board, you need to send the same 5v to the transistor. You can't wire it straight to the 7.4v battery pack. If you do, the LED will develop odd quirks like never fully turning off and flicking when the motion sensors trigger, even when the saber should be off. The MOSFET apparently has no such issue, so would be recommended if the regulator's 1.5A limit might be an issue.

3) As far as I can tell, there's no way to disable the auto-shut-off on these boards. They're hard-coded to stay on so long as the swing or clash sensor has recently been activated, so they won't auto-shut off if you're using it, but this isn't the board for an always-on display piece.

I bought one of the "Bladebuilders" Graflexes last night with the idea to do the same thing- transplant the soundboard and speaker into the stunt Ultrasaber my wife got me for Christmas.

From what research I've done, I understand that I'll need to get a transistor, as Kouri already mentioned. But my question is this: the saber already runs on 4 AAAs (it's a stunt US Monarch in "Sunrider's Destiny"), but the hasbro board runs on 3 AAAs. Will I need to do anything besides the transistor to make the board play nice with the LED if I keep the original 4 battery power pack, like run a resistor to the board, or can I just drop the board and speaker into the existing wiring?

(Also, sorry to barge in on your thread, Eddylss, but I figure our ideas are similar enough that starting another thread for my question would be redundant.)

Truth there, Afadir. Honestly, I forgot about this thread!

I have the standard 4xAAA setup in my Apprentice. However, I regularly have my saber turned on while it's on my belt or when I'm idle during training. Perhaps I should wait and get one for screwing around with later.

It's a gamble with 4xAAA Alkalines. I've heard of some boards working great at 6v. I've heard of others burning out above 5.5v. So far, the new BladeBuilders seem to tolerate 6v packs fine.

My recommendation would be to swap out the alkalines for 4xAAA NiMH rechargable batteries. The end pack would only have 4.8v, but could supply higher current than regular AAA batteries. So even with the lower voltage, you blade shouldn't dim much, and in some instances, might even be brighter.

Kouri wrote:
I already use the Energizer Rechargable NiMH AAAs in the saber I was going to try to drop the board into, so that's no problem. Figured it was more cost efficient in the long run to be able to recharge than running single use alkalines.

Sounds like this is doable, then. Thanks much for the info, Kouri!

Here's a wiring doodle to get you guys along then:



4.8v rechargeable battery pack'll be fine.

The biggest issue you'll have is with the switch you're using - these boards need a momentary switch, while you're probably using a Guarded Latching switch. Technically, you *can* use the switch your saber came with - I'm familiar with the switch, and if you only tap it lightly enough to register, but not to click, it'll act as a momentary. To be on the safe side, I'd say to replace the switch. TCSS and Ultrasabers both carry Guarded Momentary switches. If you're willing to take a dremel or drill to your hilt, though, you can widen the switch hole to 12mm (a bit less than 1/2") and drop a 12mm AV switch in there.

Hang onto the resistor that came with your saber - it's going to be that white block in between the transistor and LED in the schematic.

One final note I didn't mention - if you're willing to sacrifice some brightness, the transistor can be hooked up to Speaker- instead of LED-. This will cause the blade to pulse and flicker in-tune to the humming and clash effects, but the blade will only reach full brightness on Startup, Clash, and Shutdown sounds. On LED-, it'll always go full blast, acting just like the Hasbro saber you pulled the board out of.

I am also trying this as we speak. This has been super helpful. I do have a question though.
1) Has anyone run a led ringed switch to work only when the saber is lit. I have a switch on order right now that shows a basic schematic.

It is a momentary switch as what is used on the stock board. I just want to make it light up when on or even with the blade. 2) using Kouris' wiring doodle I have got it down to lighting the led with a transistor using the negative led line for the ground to the circuit. I really don't want to have to do separate wiring just for the led on the switch. if I can do it in series I would like to cut down on extra wires. Would you be willing to redraw it with that type of switch with those schematics. If not I understand Thanks for any help. B&T

So I figured it out myself. If you attach the left and right posts to the switch + and - and then attach the ground to the boards speaker negative it totally works. You press the button and the saber engages and the light on the switch stays on until the saber powers down. Also when using the TIP42C transistor if you are running a blue rebel led you will need a .5 ohm resistor to get it down to the correct forward voltage and to attach the battery in to the center position and the led + to the right leg other wise it will not work.

So, trying to figure out how to wiggle that soundboard and speaker into one of these:



or a cheap saber that has a removable pommel or something. Maybe a Kylo Ren or a BladeBuilder. At any rate, I'm thinking of making or buying a chassis that I can put the sound stuff into, as well as a 6w+ Red LED and a place for a switch. But I don't even know if these old E3 Basic lightsabers can be opened. Anyone got any tips?

Kouri wrote:
Kouri (and anyone else who has experience and wants to chime in), I had a dumb idea about this last night, tell me what you think.

Say you're wiring up a saber with a multi-LED star, a tri-cree for example (since that's what I have sitting around), could you run two of the dies to the transistor, but connect the third die to the speaker negative as a sort of (pardon the term) "white trash Flash on Clash"?

Afadir wrote:
Not directly to the speaker contact, but it's entirely possible to run individual transistors on both LED- and Speaker- simultaneously.

However, this requires an LED star with individual positive contacts. Tri-Rebels, Tri-Crees, LEDEngin, and DealExtreme RGB stars will all work fine. Saber Forge LEDs will not work because they have a common positive with individual negatives.

I haven't attempted this with the new BladeBuilder boards, but on the older 2010 boards, sound contact colors were dimmer than LED contact colors.

For example, you could wire Green to the LED and Red to the Sound for a pulsing yellow blade that flashes red on startup, impact, and shutdown.

Or Blue to the LED with Red and Green on Sound for a pulsing cool white blade that flashes orange.

Main blade is a mix of all colors wired up. Flash is whatever colors are wired to sound.

Quite interesting...

I may have to try that, then. Thanks!

Eddlyss64 wrote:
That's going to be tough, Back in the day my friend made his own lightsaber hilt from pipe pieces and other things from Home Depot, and took a blade from one of these. There is little to no room inside them, and while the blade pieces are hollow the tip piece has a bulb at the bottom of it that gets hooked on a latch at the bottom of the inside of the hilt (to allow for the flick of the wrist "ignition" while holding down the red button). I have opened up an Obi-Wan and Qui-Gon hilt to do the same thing he did (and failed, couldn't figure out the pipes) but never the Graflex syle hilt you have pictured. The others have little to no room and the only way I can think you could do it is to have the blade permanently out like the old electronic ones with the thickest part of the blade out at all times. If you manage to do it props to you, I would love to see that!

@GnarwhalNick, this project was mostly spearheaded by my desperate wish to have a red-bladed Graflex. I'm pretty impatient. At this point, I'm going to wait for the release of the Legacy Graflex 2.0 switch (and potentially the grip section) to be brought into ASP (the ESB parts, the ASP currently has the ANH parts), and 'Frankenstein' (term coined by h2soy) together a TFA Graflex with an eventual custom soundboard and Quick Connects for a 12w+ Red and a 12w+ Medium Blue or Arctic Blue (haven't figured out which blue yet).

I took a gander at the newfangled extendable lightsabers that are being sold these days, and they are ridiculously cheap. Quality, not price. That's why I wanted to use this guy. But if what you say is true, then I'll basically have to make all sorts of cuts and stuff into this thing to make this work.

Hi All, Eddlyss64,

Hi E64, I think the term is Frankensaber! Luno-Jay coined the term 9 months ago with his Weathered Disciple. Pretty impressive Saber as well. You can see it HERE.

Back to your project, I saw a YouTube video where someone cracked open a similar hilt and you have to be really careful as the plastic can shatter easily. The blade sections do take up a fair chunk of space. I will continue to monitor your progress as I may want to try something similar with my old hilts.

kind regards,

For Tyeth

The plastic hilts work fine for detailing, so long as you can stuff a durable saber core inside. Something like 1" SCH 40 pipe works, if it fits. 1" Copper pipe has a smaller OD, so it's easier to fit into other materials, but I don't know how well copper holds up to dueling.

In the middle of converting a toy Ezra saber after modifying a 1" SCH40 conduit pipe to fit inside the main tube section. Plan's to make use of the existing soundboard with the 6W+ Medium Blue I just picked up. Just need to decide if I'll stick with the stock 3xAAA battery pack or shove an 18650 in there.

Thanks for everyone's conversation and help.

@Master Tyeth, I've been trying to find a video for these guys, but all that ever comes up is the reviews for these things.

Hi Eddlyss64,

I will venture on a mission and try and rediscover the video I was referring to and get back to you. (I may even be wrong but I am sure I saw a vid where one of these plastic hilts was disassembled and parts used in a build, Just give me little time ok).

kind regards,

For Tyeth

Thanks For Tyeth, I'll keep searching on my end, as well. This would be a really cool and relatively inexpensive little project for me, so I appreciate the help!