TOPIC: Hilt Design Gallery

=Ottomatix=, Thank You. OvrcAHst likes very much. I believe some rebranding may need to occur. Complete OvrsiGHt that the spear extension was available without wrapping.
Yes, For Tyeth, some free material for your Meme-erator, OvrandOUt.

Hi Everyone,

Apologies it took me a while to reply and sorry this isn't a Hilt Design, but I think you guys and gals may like it.
I have been learning new skills recently with photo editing and as a Thank You to =Ottomatix= for his contributions I came up with this. I hope you like it (It could be the advertising poster for Ottomated Sabers Inc!)



Great designs and thanks for sharing =Otto=,

For Tyeth

Adan Valera wrote:
Adan, I confirmed through an ASP owner on Facebook that that activation box can be removed. Here is the saber that prompted the question:

This is a notion I've thrown together. I don't really like fancy and if I go down this route I will chemically 'distress' the metallic parts. Do you think they would send the grip material uninstalled so that I can apply it myself rather than try to remove it and then reaffix it after the metal has been 'processed'?

Gale Force Eight that's a nice dueler you have put together there. I don't see why they wouldn't be able to do that for you. Problem is, will they remember. MTFBWY!

Gorgeous looking hilt, GFE!

That is a very nice saber you created there GFE. I approve.

So here are a couple that I made but it was before I reached 10 posts so I didn't post them. Now that I'm above it I'm sure I'll be posting more!

I wanted to build a saber that looked good with orange, only because I had never attempted to make an orange saber. Here is what I got:




Parts
ASP . Pommel 2 . Standard
ASP . Body 7 . Standard
ASP . Exile Switch . Standard
ASP . Emitter 10 . Standard
ASP . Led 12W+ . Blood Orange
ASP . Blade 32'' . null

I don't have a name but I love the way it looks!

Here is another:


Parts
ASP . Pommel 8 . Weathered
ASP . Fury Body . Standard
ASP . Switch 1 . Black
ASP . Emitter 9 . Standard
ASP . Led 12W+ . Mint Green
ASP . Blade 32'' . null

Another one...



Adaptive Saber Parts
http://www.saberparts.com/#/configure?code=4.117.1.0-3.86.1.0-2.49.1.0-1.1.1.0-7.152.45.0-5.143.0.0-8.153.0.0

Parts
ASP . Pommel 7 . Standard
ASP . Body 10 . Standard
ASP . Switch 5 . Standard
ASP . Emitter 1 . Standard
ASP . Led 12W+ . Indigo
ASP . Blade 32'' . null

Hi All,

To GaleForceEight, I also like that design and agree that it looks like it would be good for duelling. Looks like a saber built in the Outer Rim somewhere, like Jakku or Tatooine. The distressed treatment sounds interesting!

To GnarwhalNick, nice to see some more of your designs. I particularly like the last one in Indigo, it flows nicely and then has the slightly bulbous pommel which should help with the balance of the saber. Just to create a bit of interest will we get to see any more designs from your girlfriend, who I seem to recall is rather talented at saber design also? (IIRC she used body part 5 in her design and it worked brilliantly!)

Great designs from both of you and thanks for sharing them with us,

For Tyeth

That second one does not look fun to hold. Nice use of a black finish on the third.

First one is unique looking Otto. I like the symmetry. Second one and third one look straight out of a movie. Great job on all 3.

Thank you For Tyeth,

I had not really considered it for duelling but at some stage I will probably need to - I run tech (stage sound light and video) for a convention company so I meet a few people that do some great cosplay stuff - Some have sabres and I cannot envisage it NOT being used actively at some stage or another....

The other reason I picked a robust straight-through design is that I will probably be wanting two at some stage so that I can connect them back to back. You probably noticed I didn't go for the full length blade in my build, and the pommel is extended out a touch!

There are a number of ways to 'chemically distress' the aluminium. Alodine is a proprietary chemical used to surface treat aluminium to protect against corrosion and will stain the metal a yellow colour (the longer you leave it the deeper the colour will become, but don't leave it too long if using it on an aircraft skin because like all chemical processes too much can be bad!)
Blackening can be done with oil (of different types depending on what effect you want) and 'baking' the components. Chemical etching can be done directly with a paintbrush, or done in a 'negative' way by painting out the areas you do not wish to be etched with varnish and then applying the etching acid which will eat away at exposed areas. These areas can then be discoloured or built back up to surface level with paint (enamelling might be interesting here!)
A further option might even be sand blasting. If you cover the whole with masking tape and then cut away the bits you want to be blasted, you can leave sections clean so that you have a blasted finish with clean designs left behind. I'll have to have a play - I have made plaques this way for people before. The clean areas can be satin stoned so that they stand out at different angles of light against the blasted surface. Any (or all) of these processes can be combined.

Having written this I am now itching to get my hands on a saver so I can pull it to pieces and start playing.... LOL

Hi GaleForceEight,

Just one point to remember when creating a staff, and that is you actually remove the two pommels on each Saber and replace them with a Coupler, with each Saber being connected on either end of the Coupler. This would mean the length of the pommel doesn't matter really except for when you use the Sabers separately.

An interesting job you have there, I studied Performing Arts and Theatrical Production at college and was a Pub/Club entertainer for 3 years before health issues forced me to stop. But for a while I was surrounded by Parcans, Fresnels, Follow Spots, Floods and Gobos, and I loved it!

For Tyeth